Let's talk about kickback...

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Plasmech

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I have never experienced a kickback. Closest thing I've been through is the saw wanting to come out of a flushing cut on me but I kept her under control. When a "real" kickback occurs, the kind that like to dig your eye socket out, what kind of force does it exert on you? Is it like a superhuman force that cannot possibly be stopped by man? Or is it low enough that if you keep your front arm stiff, you can kill it in its tracks?

Will a (for example) Stihl orange hard hat face shield protect the face from a kickback? Sure doesnt't look like it, I guess maybe it will retard the bar just enough?

Do reduced-kickback chains reduce the chance of a kickback to the point where it's as rare as finding a pot of gold hidden in the rotted cavity of the tree? I run all depth-limiter (anti-kickback) type chains, wouldn't even consider a pro chain unless I find out they don't work.

What happens when a big mother saw like an 088 Magnum kicks back? That must be a freaking bloodbath unless the saw is so heavy that it can't really come back. (?)

Just wanted to touch base on this topic. Thanks all! Sorry for all these questions guys!
 
You ask some good questions there my friend ... questions that need to be answered but maybe not here. I agree with TreeCo google is a good plan to start. Sounds ready stupid but you can actually learn a lot by watching some of that youtube stuff. I don't mean listen to the sometimes stupid comments but watch and learn. If you have a question put the link on and ask an opinion. Kick-back ... my 460 kicked back recently. No really big deal that time ... shot straight back ... like a 8 yr. old punching you in the gut ... the bar didn't even get all the way out of the wood. Chain to the helmet and face guard = 1 point the chain - zero your face. I did see that one at work one day. Guy lived but will have a scar.:cry: :cry: :cry:
 
Mike have you considered Google? There is loads of stuff on the internet on chain saw safety that you could read to bring you up to speed on the subject. We love questions but it does take time to post a good response.... a lot of this stuff has been gone over and over and is freely available on the internet.

When I was a kid I asked a lot of questions. One day out of exasperation my grandfather passed along a bit of wisdom.

"A fool can ask more questions than a wise man can answer."

He said it with love, like I'm doing now.:)


I respect your opinion and the opinion of most others on here, but, one must ask, what is the point of ANY forum if people are just going to say "just Google it"? Not only is a forum a place to learn, it's a social club as well, where people with similar interests hang out. I guess I can Google it. Thanks.
 
The thing to keep in mind is that a chainsaw is an extremely dangerous implement that can easily kill you or cut you up real good. While operating a chainsaw you need to be extremely conscious of what you are doing. You need to make sure that you are in complete control and in a position where if it kicks back you can deal with it. PPE is more than a good idea. In my opinion safety chain is bogus because it gives you a false sense of security- It's been said on here before safety chain will cut you up just as bad as regular chain.
 
Respectfully, this forum has answered these questions, or some similar to them. I can, and do, appreciate the need/necessity to review. My responses should only be taken as a point of view. Please do not rely on them as an answer to your inquiry.


I have never experienced a kickback. Closest thing I've been through is the saw wanting to come out of a flushing cut on me but I kept her under control. When a "real" kickback occurs, the kind that like to dig your eye socket out, what kind of force does it exert on you?

Lots.

Is it like a superhuman force that cannot possibly be stopped by man? Or is it low enough that if you keep your front arm stiff, you can kill it in its tracks?

Yes it is very strong. Can it be stopped? Sometimes. One thing that comes to mind is that kickback can be very, wickedly, incredibly quick. It isn't that you can't "muscle" through it. It is that it can happen so quickly, a person doesn't have time/leverage to counter it.

Will a (for example) Stihl orange hard hat face shield protect the face from a kickback? Sure doesnt't look like it, I guess maybe it will retard the bar just enough?

Maybe...The hat/shield might buy the sawer a little time to react and/or stitches reduction. If the chain brake has kicked it, it might keep the saw from touching flesh.

Do reduced-kickback chains reduce the chance of a kickback to the point where it's as rare as finding a pot of gold hidden in the rotted cavity of the tree?

NO! They help due to the construction of the chain. They do not remove the chance of kickback from the equation.

I run all depth-limiter (anti-kickback) type chains, wouldn't even consider a pro chain unless I find out they don't work.

What happens when a big mother saw like an 088 Magnum kicks back? That must be a freaking bloodbath unless the saw is so heavy that it can't really come back. (?)

Don't know. I have experienced kickback into body parts from a 441, and smaller saws. I have bruises I'll gladly except compared to what "could have been!"

Just wanted to touch base on this topic. Thanks all! Sorry for all these questions guys!
 
i will try to give some advice for kick back.
im just shy of 20 but i have spent countless hours running all kinds of chainsaws. i love them, and they are my version of office equipment.
the biggest thing is to wear chaps a helmet and STEEL TOE boots.
but a saw can cut through those, they just help to keep you from major damage.
avoid cutting with the nose of the saw, thats where your kick backs usually occur.
i run all sizes of saws and they all can kick you pretty hard, some kicks just push back, and some can throw you back a little bit.
saws are very very dangerous, respect them, and always pay close attention to what you are doing.
i have had my fare share of close calls but the good Lord always takes care of me.
be prepared for any and all kick backs. always use two hands on your saw, make sure you have a good grip at all times.
never get to confident in your ability to run a saw, even the most experienced sawyer can get hurt.
like said before a safety chain can cut you just as much as a regular chain.
i hope this helps, its not a lot of info but its a good start.
safe cutting for all.:greenchainsaw:
 
Respectfully, this forum has answered these questions, or some similar to them. I can, and do, appreciate the need/necessity to review. My responses should only be taken as a point of view. Please do not rely on them as an answer to your inquiry.


The search feature normally has about 10 or so threads about any topic you could possibly ever have any interest in...
 
A kickback can occur in about a 1/5 of a second. Faster than you can react. So, cutting in a manner that minimizes your risk is important. Easier when you are bucking. If you can see down the kerf, stand to the side so the saw would go over your shoulder. Can't do it when cutting horizontally.

One piece of advice I give the young guys ( can be taken many ways). Always know where your tip is.
 
I don't think that this question is a stupid one at all. I think everyone is trying to let others know ways to find info that has been gone over before. It is nice to talk to a professional about your specific application...

I think I can answer the question though. All modern saws are equiped with a safety chain brake that will activate stopping the chain when the saw comes up and towards your controlling hand. Most homeowners prefer to use safety chain that is meant to control kickback. Some homeowner saw bars come with a metal plate that covers the nose of the bar, also a feature meant to keep people from using this part of the bar, and control kickback. This is the theory, and I have seen the chain brake work. The times that a saw has kicked back on me were when I was using the front 1/3-1/4 of a long bar (over 36"). This is scary, and you learn your lesson. But sometimes that 1/4 is needed, so just be cautious. If your reflexes are good, you should be able to stop the saw before it cuts your head clean in two :) . I hope that this helps.

Also consider taking breaks while cutting, train yourself to visualize things that may cause a kickback, for instance if cutting a smaller say 10" log, make sure to look on the other side where your bar is sticking through where there may be branches, etc. that could cause a kickback. Try to place your body on the left side of the saw, drawing an invisible line between the angle of the bar and your body. Wear as much safety gear as you can afford, and try to cut within earshot of a buddy. Cell phones...if they work. Stay safe my friend, SG
 
I don't think it has been mentioned yet so, it is the top half of the tip of the bar that causes kickback. When you are ready for a controlled kickback read up on bore cuts. It is an unexpected one when you are not paying attention that you need to avoid.

If the top of your chain becomes pinched, but the bar is still free, is is different from kickback, I think its known as pushback? It will (or can be) a very hard shove in line with the bar.
 
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Mike have you considered Google? There is loads of stuff on the internet on chain saw safety that you could read to bring you up to speed on the subject. We love questions but it does take time to post a good response.... a lot of this stuff has been gone over and over and is freely available on the internet.

When I was a kid I asked a lot of questions. One day out of exasperation my grandfather passed along a bit of wisdom.

"A fool can ask more questions than a wise man can answer."

He said it with love, like I'm doing now.:)

:agree2: tom trees:cheers:
 
Plasmech, A kick back is your chain stopping. When the chain stops the energy transfers to the saw. You or anyone will not be able to react fast enough to stop this from happening when the top front quarter (tip)of the bar catches wood. Always make sure that your chain brake works. Pete
 
Here is some reading Mike, some of it is basic, some of it isn't, and the illistrations are helpful:

http://www.ag.ndsu.edu/pubs/ageng/safety/ae1025w.htm

From Oerogon:

http://www.oregonchain.com/kickback.htm

What the government says:

http://www.cpsc.gov/cpscpub/pubs/5011.html

An idea of how dangerous it really is:

http://journalsip.astm.org/JOURNALS/FORENSIC/PAGES/4563.htm

A couple of videos:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uoyyjuG0K-A

http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=118053115116860607


EVERYTHING about a chainsaw and it's use is DANGEROUS!! You need to be aware of where all of your body parts are in relation to the saw, you ned to know where all of your help is in relation to you and the saw.
The top quarter of the bar is what will induce kick back the most. I have had the 046 "shove" itself back at me deep in a bore cut. I've gotten careless and had the tip of the bar catch a branch and want to come back at me. It happens VERY VERY quickly!!
Now, you take all of those dangers up in the air and dangling off a rope. You have no escape route, no way to move quickly even no real other place to be than where you are!
Work on the basic cuts on the ground. Learn how to make a face cut and a back cut on a large log, then you can learn to make them match up.
Find some brush and practice limbing. Learn to watch the tip of the bar, always know where it is at. Take your time, lean what happens when you cut and why. This will help you understand what is going to happen when you fall a bigger tree. Just because the tree is on the ground doesn't mean it wont hurt you. Will the tree roll this way or that way? Do you need to take the weight off the top of the tree or the butt first?
Lots of physics involved. When you understand that beter, then you can learn the ropes. When you learn the ropes, then you take a saw up the tree and open up another can of worms. Because everything reacts different in the air!
 
No one here has mentioned the fact that skip chain is TWICE as likely to produce a kickback rather than full comp. Just thought I'd throw it in. I need to change my name here to full comp.
 
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