It's hard to believe that costs that much. It looks like it works well enough, but I can make my fiskars super splitting ax have a similar action. Obviously the lever ax creates that type of action better... I could add a weight to the side of my fiskars and see what happens. May have to try that. I know there is no way I could spend that much cash on an ax, no matter how well it works, as I don't see it being able to split the tougher and stringy pieces well.
Leveraxe
- Thread starter ericjeeper
- Start date
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Nonprophet
ArboristSite Operative
You're very good at self-promotion Heikki, I'll give you that. That being said, not only is a chopping block like that impractical, it really proves nothing IMHO about the superiority of the Leveraxe over other splitting tools.
I have no doubt that I can split the same amount of wood in the same amount of time using my $45 Fiskars Super splitting axe vs your $275 Leveraxe. Would you care to make a wager to that effect? :greenchainsaw:
NP
Finland
ArboristSite Member
Doupt
I do not doubt it either, you see, the video was taken from the very firs testing occasion. There was no attempt to make any kind of record. The purpose was only to test the very first ,long,chopper block. Sometimes when, or if you get some new ideas it is good to try them in practice. This is one way to possibly find new methods to make your life easier. I do not want to be that selfish that I would keep all my ideas only in my own use. Maybe all the ideas are not worth wile for further use, but sometimes there may come some good ones, as well. Many of the readers are using the tyre in their chopper block. Maybe they or anyway some of them have got the idea from my websites. I have used the tyre since 1989. Of course there is a big chance to break the shaft if using a conventional axe, because there will be a split under the shaft sooner or later, which will cause a damage to it. The blade of the LEVERAXE will remain ON THE BLOCK so that it will not even touch the block. You should test your skills and stamina first ,before you challenge anybody to split the wood. Maybe some day we will see some videos about your inventions. Maybe you will show us how you split the wood.
What comes to the superiority, as you have possibly read earlier, I have almost all the axes mentioned on these pages. I also have 60 years experience in splitting firewood. I do not touch them any more because they are dangerous and hard to work with.
Waiting for your videos.
Best regards
Heikki
http://www.vipukirves.fi
I do not doubt it either, you see, the video was taken from the very firs testing occasion. There was no attempt to make any kind of record. The purpose was only to test the very first ,long,chopper block. Sometimes when, or if you get some new ideas it is good to try them in practice. This is one way to possibly find new methods to make your life easier. I do not want to be that selfish that I would keep all my ideas only in my own use. Maybe all the ideas are not worth wile for further use, but sometimes there may come some good ones, as well. Many of the readers are using the tyre in their chopper block. Maybe they or anyway some of them have got the idea from my websites. I have used the tyre since 1989. Of course there is a big chance to break the shaft if using a conventional axe, because there will be a split under the shaft sooner or later, which will cause a damage to it. The blade of the LEVERAXE will remain ON THE BLOCK so that it will not even touch the block. You should test your skills and stamina first ,before you challenge anybody to split the wood. Maybe some day we will see some videos about your inventions. Maybe you will show us how you split the wood.
What comes to the superiority, as you have possibly read earlier, I have almost all the axes mentioned on these pages. I also have 60 years experience in splitting firewood. I do not touch them any more because they are dangerous and hard to work with.
Waiting for your videos.
Best regards
Heikki
http://www.vipukirves.fi
Last edited:
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
They're not dangerous, seems like after 60 years of splitting firewood, you would be able to hit what you were aiming at instead of smashing toes.
Why were you splitting those little twigs anyway? Needing some kindling? :greenchainsaw:
Ian
Why were you splitting those little twigs anyway? Needing some kindling? :greenchainsaw:
Ian
Finland
ArboristSite Member
Why
My English is probably not good enough to be able to make you understand what happens when you hit the wood with an axe.
Aiming is not any problem. It is the easiest part of the splitting. Everything important starts at the moment when the axe blade touches the block. When using the conventional axe (wedge), you never know how far the axe blade will go. There are NO SAFETY ELEMENTS. It can stop on the chopper block. It can stuck into the block you are splitting, or it can go through the block all the way to your foot. This kind of accidents happens too often.
When using the LEVERAXE you do not have to worry about the above mentioned problems. You see, the LEVERAXE is formed to be one sided. It has some elements which can be called as brakes and "safety belts".
At the very moment when the axe blade touches the block it starts to lean to the right fully automatically. It penetrates into the block only five millimetres, a fifth of an inch, on an optimum strike. So the friction is almost non existence. Still it spreads the wood up to eight centimetres. three inches. The axe blade STOPS ON THE BLOCK. This may be a little difficult to understand, but if you look at the videos carefully, you will see all how it happens. I have explained everything about the LEVERAXE on the previous pages, There are a lot information.
Splitting with a conventional axe is like driving a car without brakes and safety belts.
The LEVERAXE has in build brakes and "safety belts".
The answer to your questions can be found on previous pages where I explain the difference between our and your fireplaces.
The same is explained on my videos as well.
Check www.vipukirves.fi/english/vipukirves_videos.htm
On the video number 16 is the answer to your questions.
The rest of the videos are worth wile to see, too.
Would you like to tell us about your experience in splitting wood?
Best Regards
Heikki
:computer:
My English is probably not good enough to be able to make you understand what happens when you hit the wood with an axe.
Aiming is not any problem. It is the easiest part of the splitting. Everything important starts at the moment when the axe blade touches the block. When using the conventional axe (wedge), you never know how far the axe blade will go. There are NO SAFETY ELEMENTS. It can stop on the chopper block. It can stuck into the block you are splitting, or it can go through the block all the way to your foot. This kind of accidents happens too often.
When using the LEVERAXE you do not have to worry about the above mentioned problems. You see, the LEVERAXE is formed to be one sided. It has some elements which can be called as brakes and "safety belts".
At the very moment when the axe blade touches the block it starts to lean to the right fully automatically. It penetrates into the block only five millimetres, a fifth of an inch, on an optimum strike. So the friction is almost non existence. Still it spreads the wood up to eight centimetres. three inches. The axe blade STOPS ON THE BLOCK. This may be a little difficult to understand, but if you look at the videos carefully, you will see all how it happens. I have explained everything about the LEVERAXE on the previous pages, There are a lot information.
Splitting with a conventional axe is like driving a car without brakes and safety belts.
The LEVERAXE has in build brakes and "safety belts".
The answer to your questions can be found on previous pages where I explain the difference between our and your fireplaces.
The same is explained on my videos as well.
Check www.vipukirves.fi/english/vipukirves_videos.htm
On the video number 16 is the answer to your questions.
The rest of the videos are worth wile to see, too.
Would you like to tell us about your experience in splitting wood?
Best Regards
Heikki
:computer:
Woodjack
ArboristSite Member
I still want to try the LEVERAXE. I'll return it timely - i promise.
Any chance I can try out this tool?
Any chance I can try out this tool?
Nonprophet
ArboristSite Operative
ANY tool can be dangerous if the user is not proficient in it's use......
You say that you've been splitting wood for 60 years, and yet with all that experience you're not proficient enough to use a splitting axe or maul safely??? I don't think the tool is the problem.....
While I do agree that it's possible that the Leveraxe provides at least SOME improved safety, it can still cause serious injury if not used properly--as can a flat tip screw driver.
Lastly, design and performance issues aside, you've never really explained why your product is so very expensive? If Fiskars can make their Super Splitter axe in Finland out of top-quality Finnish steel, then ship them all the way to the U.S. and sell them for $49 dollars with a lifetime warranty (and still make money!!!) why are your Finnish-made axes $275 without shipping and only a 5 year warranty???
Inquiring minds want to know.........
NP
interesting video but as mentioned it looks as though the wood your cutting really isnt but maybe 12 inches long and looks to be fairly soft in density,lets see the leveraxe strike down through 25 inch long green hickory and white oak rounds like alot of people use in their wood furnace or OWB, not those small kindling sized pieces.I dont know anyone around here who uses wood that small in their wood appliance ...while this video doesnt show much about the ability of the leveraxes it certainly does however prove you have an uncanny voice resemblance to Latino sensation Antonio Bandaras.
Last edited:
slofr8
ArboristSite Operative
[QUOTE-lets see the leveraxe strike down through 25 inch long green hickory and white oak rounds like alot of people use in their wood furnace or OWB, not those small kindling sized pieces.I dont know anyone around here who uses wood that small in their wood appliance ...[/QUOTE]
I do. I split my wood quite small. It just works well in the soap stone stove I have. Personal preference I guess. I even split it similar to the way he does now. I actually use two tires on my block. It REALLY works well when I'm splitting Poplar. Over head swings to block it op a little, then I'll hold the axe with one hand on the end and one closer to the head and just have at it. Fast and easy. Only thing is, I do it with a Fiskars SS. If it's straight grained, I give the axe a little twist and the the pieces break off almost by them selves. I modified my technique thanks to Finland (thanks) but I can't justify the price of the leveraxe when what I've got works so well. Great concept, just to expensive.
My 2 cents.
Dan.
I do. I split my wood quite small. It just works well in the soap stone stove I have. Personal preference I guess. I even split it similar to the way he does now. I actually use two tires on my block. It REALLY works well when I'm splitting Poplar. Over head swings to block it op a little, then I'll hold the axe with one hand on the end and one closer to the head and just have at it. Fast and easy. Only thing is, I do it with a Fiskars SS. If it's straight grained, I give the axe a little twist and the the pieces break off almost by them selves. I modified my technique thanks to Finland (thanks) but I can't justify the price of the leveraxe when what I've got works so well. Great concept, just to expensive.
My 2 cents.
Dan.
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
The leveraxe has been sent on
I do not wish to ever have it returned to me.. I have spent over 45 dollars just mailing this thing around.. Honestly about half of what I feel the product is worth. In US Dollars of course.
Finland it is a great product. Needs a fiberglass handle instead of the wood handle.. And it needs a price tag that closer represents what you actually getting. I do understand the engineering that went in to it.. But I think you would do better with volume sales instead of trying to make your money back on the first dozen sold.
I spoke with a door manufacturer yesterday. They make steel insulated 22 gauge entry doors. The one set of dies for one model of their door. is $180,000.00 So it shows you in business it takes volume to recoup tooling and engineering cost.
I wish you the best with your axe. But it is simply overpriced for todays market. imho
I do not wish to ever have it returned to me.. I have spent over 45 dollars just mailing this thing around.. Honestly about half of what I feel the product is worth. In US Dollars of course.
Finland it is a great product. Needs a fiberglass handle instead of the wood handle.. And it needs a price tag that closer represents what you actually getting. I do understand the engineering that went in to it.. But I think you would do better with volume sales instead of trying to make your money back on the first dozen sold.
I spoke with a door manufacturer yesterday. They make steel insulated 22 gauge entry doors. The one set of dies for one model of their door. is $180,000.00 So it shows you in business it takes volume to recoup tooling and engineering cost.
I wish you the best with your axe. But it is simply overpriced for todays market. imho
SawTroll
Information Collector
About 500 USD in the US, 1300 here - if it is "on sale". :censored:
But, it is worth it!!
Sierra99
ArboristSite Lurker
The price is worth it
Guys,
first time poster here. I read all 20 pages. This is clearly a unique fine tool. It may cost more, but it's worth it if you like to split your supply by hand, as I do. Fine tools cost more. Uberti rifles, Lie-Nelson planes, etc. The satisfaction of a fine tool gives pleasure every time you use it, the pain of the price is quickly forgotten. I'm ordering one now.
Cheers! Happy New Years!
--Brian
Guys,
first time poster here. I read all 20 pages. This is clearly a unique fine tool. It may cost more, but it's worth it if you like to split your supply by hand, as I do. Fine tools cost more. Uberti rifles, Lie-Nelson planes, etc. The satisfaction of a fine tool gives pleasure every time you use it, the pain of the price is quickly forgotten. I'm ordering one now.
Cheers! Happy New Years!
--Brian
ericjeeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Break a leg buddy. I have tried it on several occasions. For 80 bucks it would be a fine tool. for 272 it is a joke
Sure you ain't been hired by this guy or him by another name. Both threads you're praising this overpriced sucker. And has never tried it. I smell a rat.
Haywire Haywood
Fiscal Conservative Social Retard
Justsaws
Addicted to ArboristSite
$272.00 :monkey: It would have to swing itself.
Woodjack
ArboristSite Member
+1
Same here.
LOL, He may be an easy sell, In the words of P.T. Barnum "theres a sucker born every minute"Nah... he types better english than Finland..
Ian
max2cam
ArboristSite Guru
How much does the head of this lever-axe weigh?
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