Log Splitter Engine

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djg james

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I can be more specific later with makes/models if need be, but my 22 Ton splitter engine (5 HP B&S) locked up on me some years ago. I tried to use the splitter when it was like -10F outside. It was in the garage and it did start, but only ran for a minute. Then it stopped. Could not pull the cord and it had oil in it. My guess it was too cold for the oil to circulate and the piston seized up. I went to several shops and they all told me it wouldn't be worth repairing $. The last guy had a used 6.5 HP B&S off a pressure washer that he sold me. That's what I have on the splitter now. I still have the original engine and I did try and pull the cord once. it moved freely from what I remember.

Well the replacement engine is giving me fits now so I thought about trying to start the original engine. What's the worse that could happen? It lock up again? Then I thought maybe it would be better to take a look at the P&C first as you would do with a chainsaw and maybe try to replace the piston if possible.

Has anyone worked on a small engine as this?
 
But can you find any parts?

Usually no problem to get B&S parts. But we don't know how old it is. Only sure way to find out is likely tear it down, see what it needs, order some & see what happens. Which shouldn't cost you anything up to that point. You'll need the model/serial number, likely, should be a tag on it. Also, might be just as likely to be valve train related as piston/cylinder. Fairly easy to check valve train, take the top off it. You'd have to take the cylinder off to check piston/rings/cylinder - can't peek through an exhaust port like a chainsaw. Kinda doubt an oiling issue unless there wasn't enough in it. Or there was water or other crap in it. It doesn't really circulate in those exactly, it splashes.
 
FWIW When this happened to my TSC Kohler engine on my splitter I went with the HF Predator (honda knock off). Powerful, quick change and dead-nuts reliable not to mention economical (I used the 20% off but they recently modified this to not cover the Predator brand) Food for thought!
 
Find out what caused the lock up before ordering parts. A seized engine on a hydraulic pump could also be a pump issue. Disconnect the pump and try the motor separately. Take the starter assy. off and see if the flywheel will turn by hand. Yes, pull the sparkplug and check the end of it for damage. A flat head 5 hp B&S normally does not just lock up unless you are real low on oil or a part came off in the crankcase. It is possible for a foreign object to be sucked in through the carb or oil breather tube and into the combustion chamber but it would have to be a good sized piece to do any real damage. Dirt getting to the rings would cause it to smoke and lower RPM's. Even low oil will most times slow the motor before locking up. Once you have it torn down you'll either find the culprit or start scratching your head. Pull the rod bearing cap just to be sure. Discoloration, grooves, bits of metal will be telltale signs. Check for sludge in the oil pan on old engines. Keep us posted with your progress.
 
FWIW When this happened to my TSC Kohler engine on my splitter I went with the HF Predator (honda knock off). Powerful, quick change and dead-nuts reliable not to mention economical (I used the 20% off but they recently modified this to not cover the Predator brand) Food for thought!
Thanks, I have another engine on the splitter now, but a few fixable parts broke and I was wondering if it would be easier to fix the original engine instead. That's something to look into if all else fails.
 
Find out what caused the lock up before ordering parts. A seized engine on a hydraulic pump could also be a pump issue. Disconnect the pump and try the motor separately. Take the starter assy. off and see if the flywheel will turn by hand. Yes, pull the sparkplug and check the end of it for damage. A flat head 5 hp B&S normally does not just lock up unless you are real low on oil or a part came off in the crankcase. It is possible for a foreign object to be sucked in through the carb or oil breather tube and into the combustion chamber but it would have to be a good sized piece to do any real damage. Dirt getting to the rings would cause it to smoke and lower RPM's. Even low oil will most times slow the motor before locking up. Once you have it torn down you'll either find the culprit or start scratching your head. Pull the rod bearing cap just to be sure. Discoloration, grooves, bits of metal will be telltale signs. Check for sludge in the oil pan on old engines. Keep us posted with your progress.
It's not the splitter's pump. I have been using it with a scavenge engine on it. As I said, it was cold out and it ran fine for a minute, then locked up. I tried to pull the cord at the time and it wouldn't budge. I was afraid I would destroy a repairable engine, so I bought the $50 used one I have on it now. Sometime later, setting on the ground, I tried again and the flywheel did move so I did not throw the motor away. I thought sometime down the road I would get it fixed.
We're having a nice stretch of Indian Summer right now, so I've very busy covering the wood piles, yard work and getting everything tiddied up for the wet weather. I'll get back to this project soon and update you so I can pick your brain. Thanks
 
I kicked that Kohler under the bench thinking the same - I highly suspect it is a goner but will take apart anyway "someday" ;)
 
If you want something to play with, go ahead and take it apart and try to figure out what's wrong. If your main goal is getting it running quickly, just go to Horrible Fright and by a 6.5 hp Predator for $125. I got tired of throwing dollars and time at my old Kohler, so I put Predator on, and it runs great. It's just about identical in every way to my old Kohler too.
 
Believe it or not guys those Predators are Honda's built cheap. Parts actually fully interchange with Honda.
For $125.00 treat yourself to a good value replacement.
 
I just looked at the Predator engine on-line. Unfortunately, I don't think it'll work. I have a vertical shaft engine.

P.S. They do have a 5.5 Hp in a vertical shaft.
 
If you want something to play with, go ahead and take it apart and try to figure out what's wrong. If your main goal is getting it running quickly, just go to Horrible Fright and by a 6.5 hp Predator for $125. I got tired of throwing dollars and time at my old Kohler, so I put Predator on, and it runs great. It's just about identical in every way to my old Kohler too.

Unless one really has nothing to do or no job just go buy a Horror Fright motor and exchange motor and be running happily in under four hours. Or order a Predator for a little more and be happy. One can not afford to remove a carburetor on a older BS motor in under two hours and have it running smooth. Much cheaper smarter install a new engine on it and you are done for ten years before you need to change oil. Thanks
 
The reason these engines ( and Honda, Kawasaki's) seem to "overachieve" is the result of a much more articulate governor system.
Keep eye out for homeowner pressure washer with bad pump and Honda power.
 
If you wanna get crazy you can build the 6.5 to like 20hp. Their widely used in go carts and mini bikes. Although I think the fact they rev them to like 8k has something to do with it haha.
I guess I could put on my old Kohler 20 Hp riding mower engine on the splitter :laugh:. Unfortunately, I have nothing but time on my hands. As soon as I get my outdoor work done, I'll take a look at the 6.5 Hp.
 

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