I put a Harbor Fright on my splitter in 2012 if it won’t start in 2 pulls . Better start looking at whats wrong like switch is off out of gas forgot choke was not on .
Log Splitter Engine
- Thread starter djg james
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I looked at the HF 5.5Hp vertical shaft engine again. It won't work. It's a replacement for a lawn mower; which means it doesn't have the heavy fly wheel that a pressure washer or splitter has.
To recap, I have a Brave 22 Ton splitter that came with a 5er..5 B&S vertical engine that locked up. I'll get model No. latert for . So I replaced with a used pressure washer engine (B&S) for $50. Used it for several years. Recently the Intake Manifold tube cracked so I JB Welded it and it worked fine. Now one of the sheet metal flanges on the cowling in the back has broken off and the two front bolt holes have cracked.
So I plan on JB welding the cracks and the intake tube again and pop riveting a piece of angled sheet metal to make a new mounting flange. This should get me up and running so I can get the last trailer load of wood split and off my driveway while we have this nice weather. Once the weather turns south, I'll tear into the original engine.
An alternative to the rebuild is to buy the 6.5hp horizontal HF engine and mount my splitter pump horizontally. Don't know how much work is involved.
To recap, I have a Brave 22 Ton splitter that came with a 5er..5 B&S vertical engine that locked up. I'll get model No. latert for . So I replaced with a used pressure washer engine (B&S) for $50. Used it for several years. Recently the Intake Manifold tube cracked so I JB Welded it and it worked fine. Now one of the sheet metal flanges on the cowling in the back has broken off and the two front bolt holes have cracked.
So I plan on JB welding the cracks and the intake tube again and pop riveting a piece of angled sheet metal to make a new mounting flange. This should get me up and running so I can get the last trailer load of wood split and off my driveway while we have this nice weather. Once the weather turns south, I'll tear into the original engine.
An alternative to the rebuild is to buy the 6.5hp horizontal HF engine and mount my splitter pump horizontally. Don't know how much work is involved.
That’s what I would do. Convert it to a horizontal shaft engine and then you’re done. Anything after that and you’re dealing with more common parts anyway. You’ll get more in labor and parts fixing that vertical shaft than it’s worth.
That engine was made in 1999
I finished the repair on the used replacement engine. It should work for a while. So I've turned my attention to the original 5.5 Hp B&S Quantum XE engine that I originally had thought it was locked up. I pulled the starter cord three times just now and it felt normal. Good compression but still fluid. Not like you'd expect if something was wrong.
So now I'm second guessing myself about the engine locking up. Could the cold hydraulic oil have retarded the pump from spinning resulting in the engine stalling out? At the time I did try to restart it but it wouldn't pull. And the replacement engine was installed during warmer weather.
I'm half tempted to put gas and oil in it and try to start it. But if the piston is scored, I'll screw up the cylinder (more?). So I need to know how to check the piston visually. Take off the muffler. Never tore into an engine before.
So now I'm second guessing myself about the engine locking up. Could the cold hydraulic oil have retarded the pump from spinning resulting in the engine stalling out? At the time I did try to restart it but it wouldn't pull. And the replacement engine was installed during warmer weather.
I'm half tempted to put gas and oil in it and try to start it. But if the piston is scored, I'll screw up the cylinder (more?). So I need to know how to check the piston visually. Take off the muffler. Never tore into an engine before.
medalist
ArboristSite Operative
That appears to be a vertical pull starter. You may have let go of the handle which allows some slack to exist which can not recoil as it should but got caught up in starter mechanism so it appeared to be locked up.
The only others possibility (splitter aside) is the potential for gas or oil somehow accumulating in combustion area causing the engine to lock up. Given time said liquid could pass thru ring gaps allowing to become free. Examination of spark plugs might help tell the story.
The entire engine can be easily disassembled in minutes but in 30 years I have never bothered to rebuild an aluminum bore B&S. In my shop you got a short block or a Honda retrofit.
Good luck.
The only others possibility (splitter aside) is the potential for gas or oil somehow accumulating in combustion area causing the engine to lock up. Given time said liquid could pass thru ring gaps allowing to become free. Examination of spark plugs might help tell the story.
The entire engine can be easily disassembled in minutes but in 30 years I have never bothered to rebuild an aluminum bore B&S. In my shop you got a short block or a Honda retrofit.
Good luck.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
East coast?
It's 75* in Boston right now. Freaking nuts!
It's 18* here and thst feels warm. Had been near 0* earlier.
So can you tell me how I can take a look at the piston? What do I need to take apart?
Midwest, suppose to cool down (50s) by Wednesday.
NSMaple1
Addicted to ArboristSite
I have had a small engine temporarily lock up on me before. But that was after bouncing down a rough road with the gas turned on - filled itself with gas and hydro locked. Dont focus on just the piston, valve train can hurt you bad too.
medalist
ArboristSite Operative
Remove shroud, remove head, remove sump. Release rod bolts and piston slides out.
Remove fuel and oil first!
Inspection camera down spark plug hole alleviates all disassembly.
Remove fuel and oil first!
Inspection camera down spark plug hole alleviates all disassembly.
Why did you never rebuild a B&S? Wouldn't it be cheaper? Finances are tight right now so I have to go cheap.
medalist
ArboristSite Operative
Taking the cost of labor and the work required to rebore it simply doesn't make fiscal sense.
When you can repower for $125. or so you need to consider the value of a rebuild.
Kohler wouldn't be my first choice but here you go....
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com...JgHQXae-CGukWFirKfsnaD_2pQiCEbrMaAr54EALw_wcB
When you can repower for $125. or so you need to consider the value of a rebuild.
Kohler wouldn't be my first choice but here you go....
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com...JgHQXae-CGukWFirKfsnaD_2pQiCEbrMaAr54EALw_wcB
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
I've never heard of a small engine having lube issues because of the cold. Not to say it's impossible, but think about the thousands of engines on equipment that sits out in the cold before being fired up. Aside from putting it in a warm building or blasting a heater on it, there's no easy way to heat them up
... I've tried.
Most small engines can run for a while without any oil in the sump. It wouldn't take all that long for thick, cold oil to warm up.
Pull it apart and check it out. There aren't that many moving parts. Plus what do you have to lose? It's screwed as is, not like you'll make it worse.
... I've tried.
Most small engines can run for a while without any oil in the sump. It wouldn't take all that long for thick, cold oil to warm up.
Pull it apart and check it out. There aren't that many moving parts. Plus what do you have to lose? It's screwed as is, not like you'll make it worse.
Yes that's what I've planned on doing. I'm leaning toward the pump locking up temporarily causing the engine to stall out. If I get down to the piston and it looks fine, then I'll fire it up.
I think I'll take the cover holding the spark plug off first and see what I can see.
I think I'll take the cover holding the spark plug off first and see what I can see.
medalist
ArboristSite Operative
Very easy diagnosis on B&S engines if you can get free access to flywheel. Just spin it backwards...it should bump against the compression and then reverse to normal rotation. This not only shows you have compression but also lower end components are free.
Disconnect plug wire.
Disconnect plug wire.
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