log splitter issues

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STEADY EDDIE

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Hello all Need help again. Im still working on my old Brute log splitter that i bought at a scap yard for 400.00 bucks. I have repacked the piston and replaced the pump(28) gpm and replaced the valves making it auto cycle, and it has new filter and new fluid and new suction hose. Its all working now however the fluid seems to heat up after about 1.5 hours and then the pump starts making a slight squealing noise and it will no longer go through the wood. I shut it down and let it cool down usually by coming out the next day. It works fine again for an hour and it happens again. Some other particulars to know about- the piston is 5" with a 3'"rod and the hydraulic tank is 15 gallon. I dont know where Im going wrong here any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
What gpm flow is the filter rated for?
Is there a screen on the tank outlet? (Suction hose)
Does the return line enter the reservoir above or below the fluid level?
Any baffles in the reservoir?

Show us some pictures please

Sounds to me like you oil is getting aerated over time and then starving the pump.


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With 28 gallons a minute into the rod side you’d be looking at 40 to 50 gallons a minute out the closed side. unless your plumbing is substantial that may be the source of your heat. That’s where the pilot operated dump valve comes into play.
 
All good questions The return is plumbed into the bottom of the tank opposite the supply. I did not see any baffles in there when I drained the tank. I would agree that the fluid is getting aerated and then starving the tank. The brand new fluid turned milky. I believe the filter is rated for 30 gpm. I has 1' inlet and outlet ports. Im trying to get photos into my computer - its not cooperating.
 
All good questions The return is plumbed into the bottom of the tank opposite the supply. I did not see any baffles in there when I drained the tank. I would agree that the fluid is getting aerated and then starving the tank. The brand new fluid turned milky. I believe the filter is rated for 30 gpm. I has 1' inlet and outlet ports. Im trying to get photos into my computer - its not cooperating. also there is a dump valve in the system
 
here are some pics not great but again having a hard time getting them in
 

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The return lines appear to be 3/4" which are way to small for the fluid volume of your system. The street elbows out of the valve and into the reservoir are normally more restrictive compared to regular pipe and elbows.
I also have a return coming from a dump valve and a small return coming out of the first valve that operates the wedge lift and the log lift.
 
What are the oil temps?

You may need a heat exchanger or a larger tank. Ideally a tank of at least the gpm, so ~30 gallons.
 
First question is always how hot is hot? An actual temperature reading, not just a feel by hand then Do you have a pressure gauge.? Where is it located? I would put a pressure gauge close to the pump and see what the pressure drop is for the system in neutral with all these hose and small port restrictions to find out how much your neutral heat generation is. The valve may be ported at three-quarter inch but chances are the internal coring is the identical coring as the half inch valve. this may be like pulling on a loose thread on the wool sweater where it unravels larger very quickly. it may turns into an issue you just have to live with or add cooler rather than make all the plumbing and valve changes necessary.
 
With 28 gallons a minute into the rod side you’d be looking at 40 to 50 gallons a minute out the closed side. unless your plumbing is substantial that may be the source of your heat. That’s where the pilot operated dump valve comes into play.
I agree. My math comes out to 43.75 (theoretical)
All good questions The return is plumbed into the bottom of the tank opposite the supply. I did not see any baffles in there when I drained the tank. I would agree that the fluid is getting aerated and then starving the tank. The brand new fluid turned milky. I believe the filter is rated for 30 gpm. I has 1' inlet and outlet ports. Im trying to get photos into my computer - its not cooperating.
30gpm rating is likely not enough, nor is the 1" ports. As stated above, on the return stroke, you are over 40 gpm from the splitting cylinder.
I found a chart on line, and added the red line to fit your specs:
hose_sizing.jpgView attachment 898003
That shows that at the recommended maximum velocity for return lines, and 43gpm, you should have between 1.25" and 1.5" hoses. Again, that is the MAXIMUM recommended velocity - Larger will allow it to slow down.

Note: I'm talking all theoretically here. I have not yet actually assembled a hydraulic system, but have read a lot, in planning for building a splitter - someday... Haha

As mentioned above, actual readings (Temperature and Pressure, if you can) can allow some of the experts on here to help diagnose.
Also, how big is your reservoir? It looks like a decent size from what I can see, assuming it's a cube.
 
He has a dump valve direct to tank (no filter) so return restrictions should not be an issue.
I see a pressure gauge ahead of the first valve. What does it show on no load when cool and then later?
When the issue is happening, what max pressure can be achieved?

What size hose from tank to pump, and from pump to the valve body?


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If your serious about this machine, you need to remove all the hosing and redo it...
 

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All the return and dump hoses go to one 3/4" tee which sends the combined fluid from all 3 hoses thru one single 3/4" hose to the reservoir.
Then this high velocity fluid enters the reservoir that is thought to not have baffles shoots straight across to the suction outlet not allowing any time for the fluid to cool .
 
All the return and dump hoses go to one 3/4" tee which sends the combined fluid from all 3 hoses thru one single 3/4" hose to the reservoir.
I have a Navagator piggyback forklift with a forty hp Kubota, and a twenty gallon hydraulic tank, if that. Everything is hydraulic/hydrostatic. No transmission. No oil cooler.
It does have seven independent return lines to the tank of varying sizes.
I'm assuming the length the oil travels is the cooling system. Also the system, apart from the tank, may hold another ten or more gallons of hydraulic fluid.
I'm sure my TW-6 had more than one return line.
No longer have it, so can not check.
 
Sorry was gone for a week. This is an older manufactured log splitter it was called the brute made by a place in vermont I believe that was bought out by another company I have not changed the layout so I was assuming that just by updating everything should work I have replaced just about everything with new but went with the sizes that were on there originally The only thing i havent replaced is the tank and the oil filter housing. I was gonna replace those thinking that may be the issue. Ive now got about three grand into this one which isnt bad considering the cost of a new one. Just trying to get more than two hours out of it before the fluid gets to hot. Thanks all
 

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