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log splitter problem

Bigjohnsons34

Bigjohnsons34

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I have a MTD log splitter model 24bf572b729. And lately it’s been moving really slow. Roughly 32 second cycle time. I’m not exactly sure what it was brand new but I was definitely faster.
I purchased a 3000psi hydraulic gauge and hooked it to the pipe that went to the piston.
When I pull the lever to extend the piston the gauge shoots up to 3000 psi.
I am assuming that means I have a bad cylinder, and can rule out the pump and valve ( please confirm thanks)
Is it possiable to repair the cyclinder myself ? What’s involved.
Or where do I find someone to repair it for me, or should I just buy a new one instead of paying someone to repair.
Thanks in advance for all of your help
 
cumminstinkerer

cumminstinkerer

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that indicates to me that you have a good cylinder, unless the rod is bent binding itself, that should be visible, more likely you have an issue with the pump being stuck in low flow high pressure mode.
 
VirginiaIron

VirginiaIron

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If you are getting 3kpsi out of the valve it could be as cumminstinkerer said. So I would FIRST check your beam type and whether the slide is internal or external of the beam. The recent designs have the slide inside two rails and it is very probable the wedge is bound due to a splinter. The pump may be operating properly but the sled may require so much pressure the pump remains in low speed/high pressure mode because the pump thinks it is up against a log. Don't ask me how it knows.
 
homemade

homemade

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Did this problem start when you replaced the cylinder?

New cylinder not properly drilled all the way into the working side of the piston.

could be a blockage in the valve, that is in the work port.

Does it run like normal when not trying to extend or retract the ram?
 
kevin j

kevin j

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if the gauge goes to 3000 and stays there while the cylinder is moving that means there’s a load in the system. it’s not the pump it’s not the coupler. when the pressure goes above about 1000 it unloads the large flow gear section of the pump and you’re on that small section so the slow speed would be normal. you have to find out why they’re such a load on that system past the pressure gauge. it is either mechanical trying to move the wedge on the beam or mechanical in the cylinder or possibly a restriction on the flow going out of the rod side back through the valve. it would be helpful to have a pressure gauge on the rod side at the same time to see if you’re getting a back pressure there.
 
Swamp Yankee

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if the gauge goes to 3000 and stays there while the cylinder is moving that means there’s a load in the system. it’s not the pump it’s not the coupler. when the pressure goes above about 1000 it unloads the large flow gear section of the pump and you’re on that small section so the slow speed would be normal. you have to find out why they’re such a load on that system past the pressure gauge. it is either mechanical trying to move the wedge on the beam or mechanical in the cylinder or possibly a restriction on the flow going out of the rod side back through the valve. it would be helpful to have a pressure gauge on the rod side at the same time to see if you’re getting a back pressure there.
Good advise,

Look for a hot spot,

If there's a blockage / restriction in the system causing a no load of 3000 psi it will be very hot in comparison to the rest of the system. The cheapo Harbor Freight IR thermometers are more than adequate to do spot checks on fittings. An additional guage in the return line will help determine what's going on.

A possible simple repair is to remove the wedge from the ram and get it off the splitter. Have seen the condition you describe caused by a wood chunk or what I call splitter trash working it's way under the wedge or push block removing the clearance and making the ram to rail connection a 24 inch long press fit.

Take Care
 
Bigjohnsons34

Bigjohnsons34

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IMG_7072 (002).JPG
This is where I put the gauge, I was trying to see if I had pressure at the cylinder. It was not hooked up with the cyclinder

I loosened the bolts that hold the wedge to the rail so that there was no resistance when the wedge traveled but the was no difference in cycle time.

Also the coupler between the motor and pump seems to be working fine. I can see the pump shaft spinning and if I go all the way out with the cylinder I can hear the motor bog down (not stall) So I am assuming that everything is connected properly

I replaced that coupler just recently. The old one somehow separated and motor and the pump each had part of the old coupler on there shaft but were barley touching and making a lot of noise. I raised that pump side up to make contact with the motor side of the coupler. It worked fine for a few weeks but than started moving very slow so I figured it was the coupler, so I replaced that and the hydraulic fluid and filter but still no luck. (btw I used automatic transmission fluid) Not sure if any of this story will help

Thank you for all of your help
 
VirginiaIron

VirginiaIron

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View attachment 683084
This is where I put the gauge, I was trying to see if I had pressure at the cylinder. It was not hooked up with the cyclinder

I loosened the bolts that hold the wedge to the rail so that there was no resistance when the wedge traveled but the was no difference in cycle time.

Also the coupler between the motor and pump seems to be working fine. I can see the pump shaft spinning and if I go all the way out with the cylinder I can hear the motor bog down (not stall) So I am assuming that everything is connected properly

I replaced that coupler just recently. The old one somehow separated and motor and the pump each had part of the old coupler on there shaft but were barley touching and making a lot of noise. I raised that pump side up to make contact with the motor side of the coupler. It worked fine for a few weeks but than started moving very slow so I figured it was the coupler, so I replaced that and the hydraulic fluid and filter but still no luck. (btw I used automatic transmission fluid) Not sure if any of this story will help

Thank you for all of your help
Something is up with this. With no load on the cylinder and no resistance on the slide it should not take 500 psi to move either the rod or the rod/slide combo. Both of my slides (2 on one splitter) barely register any pressure without a load on cylinder out, and maybe 250 # drawing the cylinders in. Now both of my gages are on the supply, not the piston port.
Your pump should stay in high flow/ low pressure (600#??) until you get a load. Some 2 stage pumps have an adjustment to change when it changes.
Can you move the piston rod in and out by hand when the hoses are removed?
 
Bigjohnsons34

Bigjohnsons34

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I don't have a tee so I can't hook up the gauge to see what the pressure is when running. I will try to find one

I just replaced the filter and when I drained the tank I pulled the return hose off the pump and the hydraulic fluid flowed out so I don't think that there is a restriction from the tank.

I removed the return hose from the valve and the supply line to the piston and left the valve in the return position and could not budge the piston.

Also I ran the machine for a 10-15 minutes and used my laser thermometer and all of the hoses etc. were more or less the same temperature.

Mike van I'm located in Southbury

Thanks for all of your reply's
 
VirginiaIron

VirginiaIron

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I don't have a tee so I can't hook up the gauge to see what the pressure is when running. I will try to find one

I just replaced the filter and when I drained the tank I pulled the return hose off the pump and the hydraulic fluid flowed out so I don't think that there is a restriction from the tank.

I removed the return hose from the valve and the supply line to the piston and left the valve in the return position and could not budge the piston.

Also I ran the machine for a 10-15 minutes and used my laser thermometer and all of the hoses etc. were more or less the same temperature.

Mike van I'm located in Southbury

Thanks for all of your reply's
The photo wasn't clear and I thought you had the gage installed in the circuit with a t-like fitting- oy vey... Take both hoses off the cylinder and try moving it. Working through the valve is going to add resistance.
The only thing that gage will tell you when dead headed like that, is your pump psi up to the valvles relief setting. You need to put the gage in the circuit to allow other components to move freely as the fluid is filling the cylinder cavities.
 
Bigjohnsons34

Bigjohnsons34

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Thanks for the advise.

I took the supply hose off the valve, it’s a 3/4” thread.

All in need is a tee, nipple and bushing for the gage

What kind of fittings do I use? I know there is a lot of pressure there.
 
VirginiaIron

VirginiaIron

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You must use fittings with a stated working pressure for the system you are using. Northern tool has tees for about $9US, and then reducers at about $6. I THINK most fittings for log splitters are rated at 10k WP- this may differ per facility and manufacturer.
1. In the meantime, what kind of hydraulic flow do you have from the removable line?
2. Was the engine laboring, like a full splitting load, while moving the piston without log?
Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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