log splitter problem

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No. Most filters or filter housings have a pressure bypass built in when the filter gets clogged, it will bypass to contour to allow operation. And hydraulic cylinders are designed to be at operating pressure in retract or extend.

Say, you hydraulic cylinder is rated at 3000psi as most modern hydraulic system are, it should be able to hold 3000 psi in extend or retract. Your filter housing, even with a clogged filter, probably only creates 25psi of resistance before the oil is forced through or the bypass opens.

If you retract the piston fully and hold the lever for a second or two, does oil spray/pour out past the seal.
No, it only seems down the rod during the extend, splitting position. I figured I might be good if I repacking the Gland and leave the other seals alone. It's splitting wood but costing me in fluid replacement.
Of course this is my BUSY time of year.
I'm wondering if the Fly Wheel splitters may be less maintenance.
The ones advertised show wood up on a table. I like my Splitter because it allows me to split at ground level.
Also IF I should start a new thread I'll be glad to do so. What should it be titled?
Thanks
 
I took the pump apart and checked the spring and ball and everything seemed ok ( clean, nothing broken etc)

I took the supply hose off and pumped it into a bucket, and I'm getting roughly 4 gallons per minute, the pump is rated for 11gpm, but I'm not so sure when that happens.

I did not attempt to adjust the pump settings yet.

Thanks
 
Not sure if it was already mentioned - have you checked for a collapsed supply hose? Restrictions on the supply side will usually make the pump make noise in protest though. Pump should be silent. You don't have a filter on the supply side do you?
 
The hose appears to be in good condition. It’s only about 3 feet long with a spring wrapped around it
.
The filter is brand new and on the return side. It has a Honda engine which is fairly quiet And I do not har/notice the pump making any noise

Thanks for your input
 
Mike Thankyou for the offer. Do you think it is the Pump?

With the hose disconnected should I be pumping 11 gpm's instead of around 4?

I'm learning a lot thru this process but still have a long way to go.
 
If you think of a 2 stage pump as two pumps in one. One pump is roughly 3-4 gpm and the second pump is 7-9 gpm. In high flow low pressure mode (non splitting) both pumps will pump together to achieve 11gpm.
Once the splitter hits the wood, the high flow pump, which only generates 400psi or so, will pump into the low flow high pressure pump.
They describe this as parallel pumping (two pumps pumping to the same output port) and switching to series pumping (one pumping into another pump to output).

Like others have said above. Sounds like your suck in series mode. You might have freed it up enough by taking the high pressure adjustment apart to cause it to switch on its own again.
 
Mike Thankyou for the offer. Do you think it is the Pump?

With the hose disconnected should I be pumping 11 gpm's instead of around 4?

I'm learning a lot thru this process but still have a long way to go.
At this point, it sounds like it's the pump - It should fill a 5 gal pail in 30 seconds or so at 11 gpm, correct? I had one years ago that got weaker and weaker as the oil got hotter. Plenty of flow but no power.
 
Sounds like you are running on the small gear set all the time, regardless of load.

After the pressure rises, the large gear set unloads back to its own inlet. That unloading should be a spool or poppet behind one of the hex plugs, not a ball and spring. The ball and spring might be the pilot control that causes the spool to shift, or it could be the isolation check that keeps the small gear flow from feeding back into the unloaded large gears.

Find the spool and make sure it is not stuck.

Also, it is possible that the spline between the two gear sets could be bad, and the large gear set is not turning, This is only possible if the small gear set is closest to the shaft end. If the large gear is closest to shaft end, then scratch this possibility.
 
I re[laced the pump yesterday and everything is all set. I tried to mess with the adjustment screw but it made no difference, so I just went ahead and swapped out the pump.

Thank you for all of your help and suggestions. I learned a lot a lot about hydraulics along the way.

Thanks again Mike Van for offering to loan me a pump to see if that was the problem, if it was not a 50 minute ride each way I would have taken you up on the offer.

Question. Should I leave the gauge on the splitter or should I take it off and plug it? I'm not sure how fragile it is.

Happy Thanksgiving
 
> I replaced the pump yesterday and everything is all set.

interesting thread! your persistence and efforts sound as if they have paid off. :)

my splitter is about 35 years old. I split 'homeowner'... not comm'l. however, I do use a lot of wood as I have 7 fireplaces; all wood burners. I burn year round. 30F or 90F! well, at 90F not inside, but my outdoor gets plenty use. my splitter stays inside when not in use. and covered. it works today, just as good as it did when brand new, purchased in the early 80's.... here are a couple of things that might help you. they really have helped me and the cycling right out of the owner's manual.

a) once your engine or prime mover is warmed up, for me that means heat soaked. then before splitting, cycle the splitter 10 times to warm up the oil, the metal and the seals. on a cold day I do this at least 20 times. back n forth, back n forth!... I hand feel the rigid pipes... summer time they get real warm quickly at 10, colder days they get warmish by 20. splitting and they get much warmer faster. operating ur ram's internals and cyl, etc at operating dims is very important. I also cycle my bucket on my tractors, too... before asking it to work for me. up, down and tilts...

b) I have seen many splitters over the years, here n there. many (actually all!) of them have rusty slides, c-clips on sides of I-beams... wedge, etc. I oil and keep oiled all sliding metal components. handle to ram. i put a spot of anti-seize on my prime mover to splitter's coupling dogs. interface points. I also wipe my wedge edge, too. first with a fine file, then with some oil. and if I run into a 'stiff split'... giving my splitter a run for it's money... I will also put some lube on cut spot on wood and wedge edge couple inches back. that usually makes the dif, and the winner goes to the splitter. in case of a tie, which is rarely, if ever, I can always saw it in half or, etc. for me I use 80-wt gear oil... as the slide load constitutes, imo... a high load environment when under load. I also swipe in some anti-seize, too. all the obvious spots for both lubes. hard wood and I can tell the pump has gone into HI mode... I don't want a mess on my driveway, so I set up cardboard or extra newspapers under my ram's I-beam. other day I did all this but had not pre-lubed the metal yet. all was working perfectly, however, once I did my lubes.... the splitter wedge moved noticeably smoother and quicker... an ez 15-20%. I did not time it, though. I would guess it takes about 8-12ish sec max from closed to fully extended. less if I don't fully retract. it will self retract if in back detent, then kick out...

hope some of this info might be useful.

here is a pix or two of a 35 year old splitter... original lines, pump, cyl etc... still doing its thing just the other day!

> Happy Thanksgiving

ditto! to you and all the rest of the AS'rs....

P4230037.JPG P4020029.JPG
 
I re[laced the pump yesterday and everything is all set. I tried to mess with the adjustment screw but it made no difference, so I just went ahead and swapped out the pump.

Thank you for all of your help and suggestions. I learned a lot a lot about hydraulics along the way.

Thanks again Mike Van for offering to loan me a pump to see if that was the problem, if it was not a 50 minute ride each way I would have taken you up on the offer.

Question. Should I leave the gauge on the splitter or should I take it off and plug it? I'm not sure how fragile it is.

Happy Thanksgiving

So you ran it and it works right? That is good.

If the guage is out of harms way and/or protected from damage, I would leave it there. If it's vulnerable, either remove or relocate. Lots of guys run guages on their splitters, permanently. Ordinary operation shouldn't hurt it.
 
Leave it there. It’s a good idea on how much splitting force you really need. If your only seeing 1000-1500 max splitting pressures. You might be able to get away with a larger then recommend pump.
For example. I have a 5hp Honda running an 11gpm pump. I’ll be switching to a 16gpm pump even though it requires a 8+ hp engine. Because that hp is required at 3000psi.
 
Yes if the gauge is not in harm's way leave it on. Then as you are splitting and you hit a oak crotch that won't bust, a quick glance at the gauge will tell you if you are getting all 3000psi to the cylinder and it is just tough wood, or if you have splitter problem like your pump not going into low.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
Thanks for all of your advise so far.

The splitter worked great yesterday, today I fired it up and 10 minutes in the plate at the end of the beam that holds the wood in place cracked/ split right where the plate meets the beam.
Where would I find another one of those plates? I looked online but could not find anything. I also looked in the MTD parts manual but the part is no longer available.
I'm not sure what the part is called. It looks to be cast iron and has the rib that holds the wood from kicking out.

Thanks
 
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