log splitter problem

[homemade]

If it’s only cracked and not broke off. A welder should be able to grind out the crack and weld it back up for fairly cheap. If your snapped her clean off, will be slightly more expensive.

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

It’s broken off it has some angle iron behind it holding it on.
Looking at it I thought that I could buy the piece and have a welder put it on. But if it could be fixed as is that works too.

 

[VirginiaIron]

That platform is hollow, what a disappointment! I doubt that can be fixed economically as compared to cutting it all off and starting with a new HD platform. Or, price a comparable beam, with wedge if needed, from another manufacturer.
How did it break? Did you turn up the psi on the valve?

 

[kevin j]

any good weld shop can fix it. Cut it all off and weld on new plate. Might be close to cost of beam assy though......but the weld shop can make it stronger than original.

 

[homemade]

I’d cut it off flush and weld a 1” plate on the end. Add a little tread edge style expanded metal if you want. 2hr job. Figure $75/hr and $25 in materials. $200. That’s what I would charge.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

I'd hammer it back in place and weld it up. Add some material to strengthen it.

 

[Woodchuck71]

Same thing happened to mine years ago.
Use the ram with a anchor and chain to pull it back in place,grind the crack,weld with 7018.
Held for 15 years now.Craftsman brand.

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

I was just splitting a 12-14" dia log with not knots and I heard a loud crack, like when your going through a piece of knotty wood. I looked down at the pressure gauge and it was at 1500 psi but the wedge was not going through the wood, so I looks at the other end and surprise. I did not mess with the pressure settings.
There is a little rust spot on it where it split, so it must of had a small crack.
I put a chain on it and straightened it out and tried my MiG welder on it with some metal I had laying around but only worked for a few minutes.
I will try to find someone next week to fix it.

Thanks for everything

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

Had a friend stop by and welded it up and I was back in business for a few hours before the thing stopped working again.

Now I can only get 500 psi on the supply line before the valve. The engine is bogging down but the gauge won't go any higher.

I went back out after lunch and was playing with it again and when I fully extracted this time I had 3000 psi but than I retracted the cylinder and brought it all the way out and I could not get above 500 psi.

Also with the cylinder all the way in I took the supply line off and tried to retract the cylinder to see if I was getting blow by but nothing came out

It's a brand new pump with about 12 hours on it.

I am stumped once again.

thanks in advance for any help

 

[Mike Van]

What do you use for oil? Is there a strainer, or filter?

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

I am using automatic transmission fluid. The manual said you can use it.
There is a filter which was replaced recently along with the fluid.

 

[NSMaple1]

Nothing wrong with using ATF.

 

[triptester]

Your splitter problem seems to be inconsistent which makes me wonder if there is a bit of debris floating around in the hydraulic fluid. The base for the filter has a bypass valve which is plastic that could have broken loose getting into the hydraulic system.

 

[VirginiaIron]

.... Now I can only get 500 psi on the supply line before the valve. The engine is bogging down but the gauge won't go any higher... when I fully extracted this time I had 3000 psi but than I retracted the cylinder and brought it all the way out and I could not get above 500 psi ...

When you are extending and retracting the cylinder, with the different pressure readings, do you hear the bypas (at the control spool) make the beep-like sound or is it silent with just a bogged down engine?

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

It is silent. You just hear the engine.

I have never heard anything from the control valve, not sure if I should or not.

I moved the gauge to the supply line before the cylinder, dead heading the pump and it will not go above 500 psi.
So I’m ruling out the cylinder as the problem. So it’s either the new pump or the valve?
I looked in the Reservoir and it looked clean. I just installed a new wix filter, I will take it off and see if it is in tact

Thanks for all the help.

 

[VirginiaIron]

If your filter is restricted, the pump pump should create a whine-like sound. The pressure bypass on the valve will make a metalic beep-like sound when the system is dead headed or reached the desired setpoint (opening bypass) while using the valve. Having the gage on the piston side will not read this set point. Place the gage on the supply hose just before the valve.

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

Thanks. I will try that tomorrow.
I was thinking of trying that today but was not sure if I would have problems starting the motor under pressure.

 

[Mike Van]

I would take your old pump apart, see if theres anything stuck in there. Gummed up, whatever. They aren't rebuildable, so theres nothing lost. With one pump failing right after the other, I'd be looking at the oil, type, delivery, etc. Your book said ATF was o.k., but that was for the old pump - Maybe not the new one? The book from my old Didier splitter said 10w30 motor oil - For my 2 cents, you can't beat real hydraulic oil, it's what it's made to do.

 

[NSMaple1]

I dont think there is any chance atf is an issue. Several manufacturers spec it.

 

[Bigjohnsons34]

I had time today so I messed with the splitter to see what was going on. I put the gauge directly on the pump and it would not go above 500 psi. (Bad pump). So I contacted the guy that I brought the pump from and he already refunded my money. So now I’m in search of another pump.
I did however fins a screen in the bottom of the tank, it was clean unfortunately not the problem.
Thanks for all of the good advice