Loosing loctite screws, (I searched already.)

[Huskybill]

Ok I went to remove a recoil start housing and can’t turn the screws, i appears there loctite. Don’t forget the older metal saws are in a deeper counterbored hole. Can’t use a flame. I was thinking about a soldering iron to heat the head of the screws hoping the heat travels down the screw?
Any other ideas?

 

[U&A]

24 hours with a few coats of a good penetrating oil and one of these 1/4” impacts .

Should zip right off if the bolt head is in good shape

Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[jp233]

use PB Blaster, that stuff is MAGIC

Let it sit for a day or 3 if you can, apply a few times. try to sit it so it will soak down into the threads.

Yeah use a heat gun as best you can if trying not to melt any plastic. Or at least a hair dryer if nothing else. block off what you can with sacrificial cardboard (you can wet the cardboard to prevent it from burning)

 

[HarleyT]

What model saw is it?

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

So you are "guessing" they are stuck in with loctite?
Could it be an old saw that has been sitting with an unmoved recoil for decades- the screws holding the cover on are steel and they thread into magnesium.
Ask someone that spent a lot of their working life in the engineering field- or an aluminium joiner/fabricator that makes windows and doors, ask them about dissimilar metal corrosion.
If the saw has been sitting for ages and had been damp at some stage, it could well be a corrosion problem locking the threads.
Repeat applications of penetrating oil, kerosene, or diesel over a few days as suggested above.

 

[Huskybill]

444 all metal, could be your right the steel screws in magnesium.
I just bought a can of deep creep from seafoam.

 

[kybob]

Kroil oil is good too


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[Tobystihl]

Add a good tap with a centre punch and hammer to the above comments !

 

[Bob Hedgecutter]

The other method is to use heat transfer.
Use a sacrificial tool, fit it to the stuck fixing and heat the snot out of the shank of the driver tool- heat will transfer to the fixing and not be in direct contact with the plastic recoil housing.
Just use your Harbour Freight type tools- not your Snap-on ones.

 

[president]

444 all metal, could be your right the steel screws in magnesium.
I just bought a can of deep creep from seafoam.

your right,PB blaster was rated as poor in the tests,deep creep was best then atf/acetone mix
came second

 

[stihl86]

The other method is to use heat transfer.
Use a sacrificial tool, fit it to the stuck fixing and heat the snot out of the shank of the driver tool- heat will transfer to the fixing and not be in direct contact with the plastic recoil housing.
Just use your Harbour Freight type tools- not your Snap-on ones.

Neat trick.

 

[SOS Ridgerider]

Ok I went to remove a recoil start housing and can’t turn the screws, i appears there loctite. Don’t forget the older metal saws are in a deeper counterbored hole. Can’t use a flame. I was thinking about a soldering iron to heat the head of the screws hoping the heat travels down the screw?
Any other ideas?

I use the soldering iron method on steel screws. If it’s actual thread locker that’s keeping bolt in tight, it usually softens it enough to get it out. Just be patient. It takes a while to heat them up.

 

[Huskybill]

I soaked them.

 

[U&A]

I soaked them.

Deep creep is my favorite

It obviously won the “test” as most know.

I do use ATF+4/k1 kerosene/mineral Spirit at a 1:1:1 ratio as a cheaper penetrating oil for not so stuck on things.

I don’t like using acetone in it because that is obviously terrible for plastics


Sent while firmly grasping my redline lubed RAM [emoji231]

 

[Huskybill]

I need to stock up on deep creep.

 

[9050lx]

your right,PB blaster was rated as poor in the tests,deep creep was best then atf/acetone mix
came second

ATF/Acetone was also good for trimming eye brow hair with a little open flame.

 

[jp233]

I wonder if they changed the formula of PB Blaster (probably to make it cheaper to make, maybe not so nasty)... it used to work wonderfully (rust bucket 90s chevy truck, et al). The old can I had looked like a "sold on TV" ad, with all these wacky comic book graphics. I had to buy some more recently, and it looks all new and fancy.

Aerokroil also works great.

Using the heat transfer method with a piece of metal is a good idea. Striking it first to try to loosen is also sweet. Maybe can use an old drill bit? Hold it in pliers and heat with torch.

 

[Huskybill]

Got them loose. Soaked them overnight. Used a ratchet with a screwdriver blade. No loctite just super tight. They never been off I guess.

 

[kybob]

A bit of antiseize when installing wouldn’t hurt


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[46 Poulan]

Hand impact driver after soaking should do it...David--old heavy equipment mechanic-38 years-------pb blaster--letem soak-go slow. I like old machinery--saws-boat motors-coleman stoves/lanterns