looks like it came out the end of the wood. Sure would have taken much longer If I sealed it but didn’t . I cut 1 yesterday and 1 today. The one that’s leaking was cut yesterday
Lots of water came out of birch slab
- Thread starter motolife313
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looks like it came out the end of the wood. Sure would have taken much longer If I sealed it but didn’t . I cut 1 yesterday and 1 today. The one that’s leaking was cut yesterday
Brent Nowell
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes that is a lot.
Something is up with your chain, mill or your technique cause your scab can get much smoother than that. Gonna be a chore to plane that
I had that happen before to me when I milled a piece of deadfall, it was winter and when it finally did dry the wood was partially rotten. It had soaked up rainwater / snow melt over the years. The wood was NFG when it finally did dry. You could scrape it with your finger.
Had some cool spalting though, I plan to make a work bench out of it cause it should be thick enough
Something is up with your chain, mill or your technique cause your scab can get much smoother than that. Gonna be a chore to plane that
I had that happen before to me when I milled a piece of deadfall, it was winter and when it finally did dry the wood was partially rotten. It had soaked up rainwater / snow melt over the years. The wood was NFG when it finally did dry. You could scrape it with your finger.
Had some cool spalting though, I plan to make a work bench out of it cause it should be thick enough
Good thing I have a electric planer. I was cutting on a cherry tree about 6 months ago and had a gallon or more come out of it. This one did it after I cut it. Kinda wierd
That washboarding effect is usually cause by a synchronicity effect between chain setup/speed and width of wood being cut.
It usually only happens in narrows softer cuts.
When a chain cuts, only every 3rd or 4th cutter is doing most of the cutting.
The leading/cutting cutter is lifted and tilted off the bar and keeps cutting until it overloads with sawdust and is then snapped back onto the bar, which then allows the cutter behind it to take up the cutting load. The 2/3 trailing cutters being the main cutting cutter do little or no cutting.
In narrow cuts with the full power of the motor behind it (and not having to also drag other cutting cutters through the wood) the cutting cutter can lift further off the chain which then allows it to move sideways (especially if it has a slightly higher top plate filing angle) more than the other cutters and cut a washboard rung. Then if the mill has been moved forward enough so that another cutting cutter enters the wood exactly one cutter height away and also cuts clean through you will end up with a washboard effect. The effect is compounded if some cutters have different top plate filing angles to the others which will drag this cutters further sideways but I have also seen this effect on new chain.
However when CSMing as soon as you start cutting wider wood the washboarding effect generally disappears.
Below on the LHS shows washboard in a narrow cut, and on the RHS the finish obtained in a subsequent cut which was about 1/5 wider than teh first.
If you have a soft narrow log and powerful saw you may still see washboarding for subsequent cuts - in that case be patient and just don't push as hard or even drop 1000 rpm and it should go away.
I adjust my speed a lot. Definitely not consistent chain speed. I don’t go wide open much. Usually 3/4. My chain sharpening skills are not anywhere near perfect either. Thinking about buying a grinder but don’t wanna pay 400$ when I’m not making much off these slabs yet. I’ve already spend a lot on new tools lately.
Ancient One
ArboristSite Operative
I am thinking about flexing in motolife's mill. The flat aluminum plate will certainly flex, and chainsaw bars are flexible. This will give the rough surface.
So, motolife, grab the tops of the uprights and pull together with your hands. Bet you get some flex. And those UHMW block angles (or whatever they are made from) flex also.
So, I recommend a length of aluminum angle on each side of the plate. maybe 1/4 x 1/4 x 1-1/2. Secure with countersunk screws, heads on the wood side. And a tie bar across the tops of the uprights as BobL has on his large mill.
You using just a file or are you using a Granberg file & joint or a similar file holder? The Granberg will give consistent cutters, both sides.
As I have mentioned in other posts I bought a Super Jolly. Very nice grinder! Makes sharpening those chains for the big bars easy and fast.
So, motolife, grab the tops of the uprights and pull together with your hands. Bet you get some flex. And those UHMW block angles (or whatever they are made from) flex also.
So, I recommend a length of aluminum angle on each side of the plate. maybe 1/4 x 1/4 x 1-1/2. Secure with countersunk screws, heads on the wood side. And a tie bar across the tops of the uprights as BobL has on his large mill.
You using just a file or are you using a Granberg file & joint or a similar file holder? The Granberg will give consistent cutters, both sides.
As I have mentioned in other posts I bought a Super Jolly. Very nice grinder! Makes sharpening those chains for the big bars easy and fast.
Don't be scared of holding back, I always go WOT , well about 99% of the time anyway.
A self feeding chain and a small amount of push should then load up the saw so that it runs at a few thou RPM lower than Max RPM.
This how branded saws should be run. You won't kill or damage them as they are specifically design to run for 2000 hours at WOT before needing a new cylinder.
Wow that’s a lot of hours. I could use your help in a thread I started. I’m making a new mill for my 075
Ancient One
ArboristSite Operative
Back in my day of watching the fallers work the Old Growth Fir & Spruce here in the Pacific NW, the Stihls were at WOT most of the time. When a guy is paid by the scale (amount of board feet of timber dropped & bucked in log truck lengths) you cannot make any money teasing the throttle. The big old Stihls (075, 076, 090) just kept running, all the saws wanted was a nice sharp chain.
Time was money, don't linger at the stump!!
