D
Deleted member 149229
Guest
You explain to James what a spark screen was. I have a bunch on the workbench if he needs one.
Low compression on my new Stihl MS362
- Thread starter James Sawyer
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
- Status
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
It could be just the 362 carb models. The 362 m-tronic 10mm had 155psi.
Isn't the MTron newer? I would think the new stuff would be EPA tampered! I still don't believe 120 to be any good!
X 66 Stang347 X
ArboristSite Operative
Theres a option to get either one.
Most places only carry the
ms362c m-tronic model.
I have no personal input on the carb model.
Most places only carry the
ms362c m-tronic model.
I have no personal input on the carb model.
120 psi is borderline low... I had a well-used 272 barely running and idling that measured 90 psi. A new ring brought her up to 120 psi and the compression may have gone up a little after that, but it did not turn the saw into something I would use regularly 
.
Another thought: Would the non-M-Tronic MS362 have a mechanically activated auto decomp system opposed to an electronically controlled one in the M-Tronic version? That would explain the psi difference.
Who adjusted the carb? Or, is the carb set properly?
.Another thought: Would the non-M-Tronic MS362 have a mechanically activated auto decomp system opposed to an electronically controlled one in the M-Tronic version? That would explain the psi difference.
Who adjusted the carb? Or, is the carb set properly?
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
Jist thankin out loud....Shop rag hangin out the gas tank for a fuse?
Be nice to figure all this out and rip it apart!
I wish I could get hold of that saw. I would bet big money I could fix it or get Stihl to replace it. I have never had them not satisfy a customer or me. It may be as simple as the impulse line is loose , I have had that to happen before on new saws.
SteveSr
Addicted to ArboristSite
Interesting thought...
An M-tronic saw can tune and "protect" itself with the computer whereas the carb saw cannot. What is the possibility that Stihl "detuned" the carb models to add some more "operating/protection" margin to the carb version? Anyone care to hunt through recent IPLs to see if they can find any piston, cylinder, base gasket, etc differences between the M-tronic and carb versions. As someone already pointed out Stihl modified the cylinder to add more cooling as they may not have had enough margin (to prevent melt-downs) to begin with.
I recall an earlier post in which a tree service was burning up 362s left and right. Never did hear a root cause or resolution.
If your warranty is non-existent anyway, I'd send it off to @Chainsaw Jim for porting. It'll come back with whatever kind of compression you want. You're gonna have more invested in headache and heart attack medicine than the cost of a port job
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
The cylinders between the two model are the same is my understanding. The new Mtronic has the same plug. That easy to verify thou. Install height gauge bring it to TDC and cc the cylinder with oil. It'll give to the volume at combustion. I'm sure they are the same. I'm thinking all the 362 are the same a new or different cylinder isn't going to change anything. Support is saying that , both saw shops are saying that. Unloaded the saw , it runs perfect...put in wood it stalls and chain plain stops at times . Light hand or not you cant prevent it from stalling. In the cut, the kerf isn't changing the chip load is the only variable. The energy with the saw changes with the rpm. It was designed to run on high RPM. The load builds up , the saw slow down the saw producing less power and chain just stop like I throw the brake on. So I was reading someone brought up the clutch I should have thought about that more...does anyone know how the quick stop works? How can you tell if my saw has it. How is it adjusted. When I pulled my oiled I didn't see anything different about the Breaking system. The clutch , bearing and drum looked normal.
i forget who posted about the clutch earlier but i think you need to look at the clutch and chain brake. this is the straight 362 correct?
I read the owners manual for the 362 and 20 " is the max recomended bar length. Iv'e run a 25 0n my 036 a few times but not for all day cutting.
page 2 of this manual on the quickstop. after i read about this i'm wondering if this could affect operation of the saw if it was not working properly?
https://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent...IHL-MS-362-C-MQ-Owners-Instruction-Manual.pdf
cuinrearview
Red saw lover
There's also that whole 110psi thing...
stabbing in the dark here.
i do think the saw needs more run time. my 462 is waking up after running a bunch. i was wondering after the first tank but way better now.
drf255
BAD CAD
There’s something wrong with the saw. Hopefully Stihl USA with help un-screw you a bit.
“High RPM” cutting is a load of shít. BHP rating is torque x rpm/5252 like every other damn saw. Saws generally hold a certain RPM in the cut. If you have to lift the saw so it won’t stall, it simply is low on power, period. Having to hold a saw up off the bar so the chain will spin means you don’t have the power to pull that chain.
Not sure what else to say. I can’t see Stihl forcing themselves out of the market by producing a dud because of EPA regulations. In the past, they made mods to keep saw power up as the rules became more stringent.
Case in point, the MS260. When the EPA grabbed tighter, Stihl increased the Bore of the 026/260 from 44 to 44.7mm to keep the BHP the same and still meet requirements.
They are a business like any other, they don’t want to lose market share. Please do all you can to send a link of this thread to them. If you don’t think a company that large is watching online forums about their products, you’re probably wrong. They have to be. The bad publicity of their models in a place where aficionados come isn’t a good thing in any way.
“High RPM” cutting is a load of shít. BHP rating is torque x rpm/5252 like every other damn saw. Saws generally hold a certain RPM in the cut. If you have to lift the saw so it won’t stall, it simply is low on power, period. Having to hold a saw up off the bar so the chain will spin means you don’t have the power to pull that chain.
Not sure what else to say. I can’t see Stihl forcing themselves out of the market by producing a dud because of EPA regulations. In the past, they made mods to keep saw power up as the rules became more stringent.
Case in point, the MS260. When the EPA grabbed tighter, Stihl increased the Bore of the 026/260 from 44 to 44.7mm to keep the BHP the same and still meet requirements.
They are a business like any other, they don’t want to lose market share. Please do all you can to send a link of this thread to them. If you don’t think a company that large is watching online forums about their products, you’re probably wrong. They have to be. The bad publicity of their models in a place where aficionados come isn’t a good thing in any way.
Derrick Sawyer
ArboristSite Guru
I was just curious when you said the clutch drum was smokin since that usually means the clutch is still turning and the drum is stuck (due to misalignment, incorrect install, bearing bad, bar pinched, bar/sprocket clogged) and that would mean the saw has decent power. I also was wondering this since the oiler was replaced so the clutch would have to be taken off, was this done with an impactor and what was used as a piston stop since the usual plastic piston stop for the 044, 440, 460, 461 that sits in the squish band won't work, neither will the one i have for a 201t, with the smaller plug hole, maybe just used the rope method?. Since it was new it probably wasn't that tight anyway. Your saw does not have the quickstop chainbrake, that feature was very unpopular and shops could barely get rid of a saw with that, the handle is very large on that compared to the normal throttle lock.
Either way something is bad with the saw if the compression is really that low, but the reading can be affected by where the schrader valve is on your tester, what does the adapter or hose on your tester look like?
When i say they are turds brand new i mean they should still cut well with light pressure thru softwood and hardwood and hold rpm but don't expect to put on a 25" bar and blaze thru a 20" oak when leaning on it just cuz its a new saw. You can put a lot more pressure on the bar once broken in and they cut great.
One more thing, my 462 brand new would blaze thru wood with a 20" bar but couldn't clear chips fast enough and the bar and sprocket tip would get clogged and sieze until i cleared it....i was used to running a loose chain with my older saws with the wrap style larger chip deflectors. Anyway, i put the chain a little tighter and the chips don't clog the bar anymore, though id still like a larger clutch cover but they are expensive of course.
Final summary: I think your saw is low on power and is defective. My comments are just other potential things that can happen with any used or new saw.
Either way something is bad with the saw if the compression is really that low, but the reading can be affected by where the schrader valve is on your tester, what does the adapter or hose on your tester look like?
When i say they are turds brand new i mean they should still cut well with light pressure thru softwood and hardwood and hold rpm but don't expect to put on a 25" bar and blaze thru a 20" oak when leaning on it just cuz its a new saw. You can put a lot more pressure on the bar once broken in and they cut great.
One more thing, my 462 brand new would blaze thru wood with a 20" bar but couldn't clear chips fast enough and the bar and sprocket tip would get clogged and sieze until i cleared it....i was used to running a loose chain with my older saws with the wrap style larger chip deflectors. Anyway, i put the chain a little tighter and the chips don't clog the bar anymore, though id still like a larger clutch cover but they are expensive of course.
Final summary: I think your saw is low on power and is defective. My comments are just other potential things that can happen with any used or new saw.
Colt Marlington
ArboristSite Guru
Maybe they had a bad batch of too thick base gaskets.
James Sawyer
ArboristSite Operative
https://m.stihlusa.com/WebContent/CMSFileLibrary/downloads/Chain-Saw-Comparison-Chart.pdf
25" is the what I Stihl specs
- Status
