Low compression on my new Stihl MS362

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Its raining today not sure I can get up the hill. I have to cross a creek and its steep coming out. Its pretty much a 4x4 deal even when its somewhat dry. Depends on how much it rains today and what it's like when I get home. If its' still raining after work I'll stop in at the 2nd saw shop because I can't get up the hill anyway. I want to ask about my thoughts on this easy start, get him to tell me the truth about this new design. I also want to pin him down if they called Stihl or not...he was very vague when asked and transfer the question to Stihl web site, their new software upload on Stihl's new saws/ specs etc. He directed the conversation to ....he ran my saw several times, yes the chain stop if you load the power head. He stated if you let it run it cuts at 9600rpm. He didn't really say he talk to anyone from Stihl. Its hard to say a Stihl dealer (the shop I bought it from) would put old fuel in new products the more I think about this. When I first went into 2nd shop, he was positive this saw had a problem if the compression was <135psi, I was happily surprised what he had to say at that time. That conversation was short..." let me have the saw I'll take care of it", it'll be a warranty" if it less than 135psi. Now...well its this new design, very vague about being able to loaded the saw. He did say my chain was aggressive, its a fC chisel and he made a comment about I should go to a full skip it might be better. I don't want the kick back risk with a full skip. At this point ...I'm starting to go with what white wolf is saying, sound like the run around. I hope this isn't one of those deals like when Stihl came out with the 441 and discontinued the 440. My dad was cutting then and bought one of those 441 and he got rid of it right away piece of junk..Baileys bought lot of the old 440 stock and dad bought a new saw from them instead. That was before Stihl brought back the 440 again until they fixed the problem with the 441. A lot of unhappy logger back then that bought the 441.
 
Guys like you and me would have that sucker pulled down and parts ordered in under an hr., if the dealer did that, they’d have a loyal customer for life and word would get out. Take care of your customers like they’re family, it pays off in the long run. Again, just MHO.
What we want from a dealer and then what we get from them is two totally different stories. I just do all my own work now as its just so much easier than dealing with the stealers, I can tear them down and rebuild them far too easily, does it cost me, sometimes but the less stress at my age the better. My saws will likely outlast me, I can repair them all if necessary but for the most part they are good reliable tools for me. I just bought another couple hundred dollars of parts, do this often and I have a big stash that I may need someday when the models I have become NLA for parts replacement. I began part collecting back around 1990 and have hoarded up a goodly supply for the saw models I own.
 
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Has anyone tried to recalibrate it?
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Something for the OP to ponder and possibly ask his dealer if they can do that for him. If it's a good dealer and you're selling these M tronic saws they should have the equipment to test them and it will tell them exactly what is wrong
 
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Has anyone tried to recalibrate it?
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I didn't buy the M-tronic version because there was so much bad press when they 1st came out. Not having any experience on new saws I didn't know if they fixed the problems. I know the M-tronic is a lot better and if I had the M-tronic version they could tell a lot more about this problem. I wanted the carb version because I know they work and I don't need the OEM software to interface. The shop I bought this saw from didn't have the software... I asked them when I was 1st looking at buying a new saw. I know the M-tronic and carb. version have the same cylinders and piston so it hard to say what the different is on this new design. From your post of Stihls doc. it has been changed that for sure. Stihl could have changed the thickness of the base, cc of the head chamber, or the piston TDC height or a variety of these things. I sure the porting was changed too. It doesn't really matter the saw has no power to me. Falling a tree with high sap and chips are going to gum-up and stop the chain, force you into full skip or semi skip to clear the chips. Even then you wouldn't know unless you try it. Thank you for your time...looking up this info...
 
AS far as I am concerned this is a dead horse. WE cant take the dam saw back for him nor call the Stihl rep for him.
OP you ask for advice why dont you follow it?

Your right this is in my court. Until Friday I was working with the dealers trying to get them to take care of it. Both dealer say I need to run it ...I have .3 hours of run time on this saw myself and it's been in Dealer hand ever since I had a problem with it. Both dealers are seeing the chain stop my complaint. The 1st dealer has .1 hours and 2nd has .4 hours. Yes... I agree the muffler needs to be pulled at the dealer so it can't be said I voided the warranty. Yes... I need to run it some more so they can't say I didn't make any effort to verify what the dealer are saying. I did make sure I made ever effort to make sure the dealer knew I had a problem with this saw and I do not like how this saw runs as soon as it was possible to do so. That's why I took it in when it flood easily before I ever make one single cut, I saw a problem from the start! Yes the point of purchase that dealer needs to make it right. My next step I need run the saw and just take it back. Not ever having to deal with saw warranties I wasn't sure what I could do. Being a home owner and buying Stihl oil at time of purchase my warranty is good 2 years. I pretty much was in the thought once you buy a saw and run it...its yours a return was not possible, I never dreamed I would be here on a Stihl product. But thanks to everyone advice I'm hearing different. I did follow the advice given on my purchase of this saw and I don't think anyone was aware of this design change...I do think I'm going to have trouble getting my money back and I need to be careful I'm in compliant with the dealer request to a point. I appreciate everyone advice I'm sorry if I seem to not be listening...there is a lot of different thoughts on this. This indeed has been a learning curve, If I was to do this again. I would flat say this saw is not what I wanted and took it back or tried to force the hand. There was a design change ...they the dealer did not inform me this saw runs like this! A course I don't think either dealer really knew. I think this is all new to them also and a surprise to them as well as me. So, on that note taking the groups advice I'm going run the saw tonight and take it back tomorrow. I'm apologize if I offended anyone, that was not my intent. I do appreciate the advice...thank-you! I pretty much think you're all right and I'm not disagreeing. Bottom line I'm the one that going to be out the $1000 not this group...but I know everyone on this site that has responded does care and are trying to help me! THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
 
Your right this is in my court. Until Friday I was working with the dealers trying to get them to take care of it. Both dealer say I need to run it ...I have .3 hours of run time on this saw myself and it's been in Dealer hand ever since I had a problem with it. Both dealers are seeing the chain stop my complaint. The 1st dealer has .1 hours and 2nd has .4 hours. Yes... I agree the muffler needs to be pulled at the dealer so it can't be said I voided the warranty. Yes... I need to run it some more so they can't say I didn't make any effort to verify what the dealer are saying. I did make sure I made ever effort to make sure the dealer knew I had a problem with this saw and I do not like how this saw runs as soon as it was possible to do so. That's why I took it in when it flood easily before I ever make one single cut, I saw a problem from the start! Yes the point of purchase that dealer needs to make it right. My next step I need run the saw and just take it back. Not ever having to deal with saw warranties I wasn't sure what I could do. Being a home owner and buying Stihl oil at time of purchase my warranty is good 2 years. I pretty much was in the thought once you buy a saw and run it...its yours a return was not possible, I never dreamed I would be here on a Stihl product. But thanks to everyone advice I'm hearing different. I did follow the advice given on my purchase of this saw and I don't think anyone was aware of this design change...I do think I'm going to have trouble getting my money back and I need to be careful I'm in compliant with the dealer request to a point. I appreciate everyone advice I'm sorry if I seem to not be listening...there is a lot of different thoughts on this. This indeed has been a learning curve, If I was to do this again. I would flat say this saw is not what I wanted and took it back or tried to force the hand. There was a design change ...they the dealer did not inform me this saw runs like this! A course I don't think either dealer really knew. I think this is all new to them also and a surprise to them as well as me. So, on that note taking the groups advice I'm going run the saw tonight and take it back tomorrow. I'm apologize if I offended anyone, that was not my intent. I do appreciate the advice...thank-you! I pretty much think you're all right and I'm not disagreeing. Bottom line I'm the one that going to be out the $1000 not this group...but I know everyone on this site that has responded does care and are trying to help me! THANK YOU FOR YOUR HELP!
The more time you put on it the more they can blame you dont run it at all! Is it past the 7 day satisfaction guarantee yet? did you read my post this morn at around 9.00, I called my Still dealer and he said you had 7 days for the satisfaction guarantee to bring it back. And since they claim nothing is wrong with it they cant say you seized it up with bad Ethanol gas,their standard excuse!
 
The more time you put on it the more they can blame you dont run it at all! Is it past the 7 day satisfaction guarantee yet? did you read my post this morn at around 9.00, I called my Still dealer and he said you had 7 days for the satisfaction guarantee to bring it back. And since they claim nothing is wrong with it they cant say you seized it up with bad Ethanol gas,their standard excuse!

First post was 3/21/19, so he's past the 7 day period. Too bad he didn't know about this when he took it back to the selling dealer.
 
Tracking back its been more than 7 days but a good dealer with say you brought it in within that time period with an issue and weren't 100% satisified...i guess this is why guys sometimes say good dealer support is the most important....you may prefer stihl over husqvarna or the other way around but after a bad experience you may switch...at the end of the day both brands work well (minus the occassional lemon such as in this case). Also i wouldn't compare it to an 034 super...even a well broken in 362 with 150psi compression i won't expect to cut stronger in a 12" plus log, i mean 362 is 59cc and an 034 super is 62cc of badness. kind of the same with 462 i just bought, doesn't feel that much lighter or stronger than my 044 10mm. i was even thinking of selling the 462 now, though the anti-vibe and air filtration is much better i do admit.
 
I agree with Derrick.
If the problem was noted within the 7 day period, and nothing has improved while the OP did his best to work with the Dealer, they ought to allow the return. The OP seems a good guy and has tried to work with the Dealers, but they have not done enough for him. This low compression, new design, low torque, high rpm business.... I don’t get.
Is it a 60+ cc saw or not? Is 60cc the new 25cc?
 
Bad day yesterday...determine to run this saw, had heck of time getting up the hill, getting back to the house...not so good. Bottom line on this saw is it sucks...terrible to run! I don't want anymore to do with it taking it back, get out of it anyway I can. This saw is dangerous I would never fall with it after running it yesterday. Total frustration running it, you can't even cut firewood with it. I sure the clutch will burn up in a couple days of use, I had to stop and let the clutch cool down because it was smoking. The chain just stops dead, constantly having to shake out the saw to keep it cutting. Tested this on 15" Douglas Fir log and 23" Douglas fir log, the chain is constantly stopping, I could not keep the saw cutting no matter how hard I tried to baby it. The best I could do is keep is keep it cutting with only one stop on a 15" log, the norm would be 3-5 times the chain would flat stop. The RPM are all over the place you can't keep a constant cut speed. The saw is tuned at 13.4k and during a cut where you can keep the chain moving is 6.5k to 13K. The saw cuts the best if you can get it to run at 10K but that is nearly impossible for very long. Ran this with 25" bar bought with the saw, changed this to 20 bar with fresh ground FC chain. The 20" was better but pretty much ran about the same, Did most of my testing on the 15" log. I did run a full cut with the 20" bar on 23" log just to see how it would do under a full bar load...terrible same deal. At this point the saw going back I just don't want anymore to do with it nor do I care about the truth why this saw is like this and I don't want another MS362...it just that bad.
 

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