Making rough cut lumber consistent

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Lambo3

ArboristSite Lurker
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Proctor, MT
Howdy folks, I haven't been to this site in a LONG time, but I have another arborist type question.

So, I'm thinking about getting a mill, and I'm trying to understand what I can really use rough sawn lumber for. Yes, I realize this question is probably annoying asked over and over... I have zero experience milling, btw.

First... how about those lumber prices eh? It is straight up bananas around here. I paid $31 for a sheet for 1/2" ply sheathing the other day. Studs, posts.... everything seems to be crazy too.

So, on to the question... A lot of guys ask if they can stick frame a house with rough cut lumber, and the answer is often "don't do it, buy dimension lumber". I have several projects coming up in which rough sawn will be fine (a shed, large storage building, etc...), but what would be the process be if a guy wanted to make it more "consistent" for stick framing? Could you mill it into slabs, dry it, then mill it into boards once dry? ...or, mill into boards oversized, dry, then mill again? (a solar kiln could be in my project list as well). Is it simply not possible, or just more work than it is worth? Is a planer required? I'd be working with fir and larch mostly where I live. Pine is also available and cheap (lodgepole and p-pine). No shortage of these three and opportunities to get enough here and there for my own projects. Log truck loads are available as well.

Thanks,
Scott
 
Very interesting question. I've seen some nice storage buildings done with rough cut. Wood is going to change dimensionally as it dries so you would have to process afterward to get consistent dimensions - unless you don't mind wavy walls. For small projects it might be ok but for something large like a house, by the time you invest in equipment to process a large amount of wood, you'd be better off using store-bought. Get a second part-time job to pay for it.
 
A lot will depend on: 1) the quality of the logs, 2) the experience/knowledge of the sawyer slicing up the log, 3) the mill itself, 4) how the lumber is stacked/dried after sawing.

If you have some portable sawyers in the area you might ask if you could watch them onsite. I learned by working in a sawmill while earning money for college, I learned a lot.

Have you considered timberframing? Timbers can be milled, as can rough cut boards for siding (batten board) and flooring (hardwoods better for flooring). Fir and pine would be fine for that but consult an engineer for proper sized timbers and joinery. Lots of 200 year old houses-barns still standing and they were all rough cut and some timbers even hand hewn.

The Forestry Forum has a good sub-forum on timberframing.
 
Thanks for the info gents... I did order a timber framing book to learn a bit about it. That does seem a better approach for a private mill owner. Timber framing with green wood seems to be a well known approach. I was just curious what the approach would be if a guy was taking his time to actually try to get stable lumber to frame interior walls and such. It seems like if you had a kiln solution you could get there. When 2x4 pine studs are near $6 a pop one starts to get creative.
 
If I had a mill and a free source of trees, I wouldn't hesitate to mill my own construction lumber for sheds etc. When I was at the mill, a guy had lumber milled for his big timber framing project. Pretty consistent lumber and that was on a circle mill. Plus if you're using SPF, that'll dry even faster. Pics if you do.
 
Do you have building codes where you live?
If the building be inspected, the lumber will need to be inspected and have a grade stamp.

It's a fair bit of work to produce 2x4s, 2x6s, etc that are at least #2 grade.

Granted the lumber we usually get here at Lowe's is somehow certified as #2, but a fair bit is "chip stock" (should be made into bio fuel).
The last time I bought a bundle, I ended up returning nearly 50%, and that was even with using some that were borderline as I didn't have enough for even 1 of the couple projects.
 
Do you have building codes where you live?
If the building be inspected, the lumber will need to be inspected and have a grade stamp.

It's a fair bit of work to produce 2x4s, 2x6s, etc that are at least #2 grade.

Granted the lumber we usually get here at Lowe's is somehow certified as #2, but a fair bit is "chip stock" (should be made into bio fuel).
The last time I bought a bundle, I ended up returning nearly 50%, and that was even with using some that were borderline as I didn't have enough for even 1 of the couple projects.

There are codes, but out in the county where there is no special zoning you do not need a permit to self build, and building inspections are not required. Some counties are different than others, but in most areas the only permit you need is for electric if you're doing it yourself. There are electric and plumbing inspections, but you also don't need a permit for plumbing if you're doing it yourself. Not that I'd try to build a large high end home with rough sawn lumber, but if I built a cabin, I'll build it with whatever I want. I was just curious how one would go about getting the lumber as good as possible, or if it is even worth the effort even to stick frame a storage shed.
 
I was going to question your price on 2x4 but checked locally. Wow, prices must have jumped a lot recently. Seems like I was paying around $3 not too long ago.

Yeah it is crazy... it has to come down at some point, one would hope.
 
If I had a mill and a free source of trees, I wouldn't hesitate to mill my own construction lumber for sheds etc. When I was at the mill, a guy had lumber milled for his big timber framing project. Pretty consistent lumber and that was on a circle mill. Plus if you're using SPF, that'll dry even faster. Pics if you do.
I've been priming my wife about lumber prices and my dreams of having a mill. She didn't seem to think it was as cool as I did, but if I sneak one into the pasture I'll be sure to take pictures :).
 
Yeah it is crazy... it has to come down at some point, one would hope.
I just checked here. Lowes was around $3 each for 2x4 stud. Now at $6.41.
That's more than the usual 2x6 prices.

Not finding 1/2" cd plywood, but the pressure treated is $58. 3/4" is $70.98.

Last 1/2" plywood I bought was right around $20 a sheet.

I paid around $45 a sheet for 3/4" pressure treat too.
 
I've been priming my wife about lumber prices and my dreams of having a mill. She didn't seem to think it was as cool as I did, but if I sneak one into the pasture I'll be sure to take pictures :).
"Honey, look what the tooth fairy left me".
Buy one if you have a source of trees. Then start making her furniture she'll appreciate it. Not to mention the little extra $ when you sell some.
 

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