Makita DCS520

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Michael. if you get this saw to run again, you could eother keep it or sell it to just about anyone. I have three saws in my arsenal that I acquired that way. I now have in my shop a Stlhl MS362 that is another candidate. The Stihl dealer could not fix it. I did. That's the way it is.

This one will be keeper because it will be the first saw I’ve worked on


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I still own the first saw that I ever worked on that was in as bad a shape as this one. It starts and runs today. Nobody else knew what to do with it except throw it away. So, I saved it.

That’s the plan and funny enough the guy I bought it from owns an auto shop and he tried fixing it. But I think even when parts aren’t available it will become something to hang in my future shop.


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now why would you do that?

if you don't measure, you could smash your stuff up.

make a gasket. Probably the same thickness as the stock one.

my guess is that is a high compression saw (built for torque), so the squish is already tight. I could be wrong tho...

you build that machine right and it won't be hangin' in your shop, it will be workin'. For years and years.

someone else here knows that saw, I bet.
 
now why would you do that?

if you don't measure, you could smash your stuff up.

make a gasket. Probably the same thickness as the stock one.

my guess is that is a high compression saw (built for torque), so the squish is already tight. I could be wrong tho...

you build that machine right and it won't be hangin' in your shop, it will be workin'. For years and years.

someone else here knows that saw, I bet.

Yeah I understand that. I’ve just heard of people doing a base gasket delete. It just so happens I tore the base gasket when honing the cylinder and was wondering if it’s possible to run without.


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Without complimentary porting that base gasket delete thing is a crap shoot.

You could easily make a perfect gasket with gasket paper.

Did you check the crank? (Both ends of the crank and the bottom end of the rod)

If that is a good saw stock then it is worthwhile to keep it that way, IMO.

This place is a little mod happy, IMO again
 
Without complimentary porting that base gasket delete thing is a crap shoot.

You could easily make a perfect gasket with gasket paper.

Did you check the crank? (Both ends of the crank and the bottom end of the rod)

If that is a good saw stock then it is worthwhile to keep it that way, IMO.

This place is a little mod happy, IMO again

The saw has never run, I paid $20 for it and found out it suffered from low compression. Pulled the p and c and the piston was toast and the cylinder I honed. But I accidentally tore the gasket so I was curious about a base gasket delete.


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I just put new ring In my 520I. I checked squish it was around .060 w/gasket. I did my gasketless didn't even bother to check. However you should ALWAYS check squish. Having said that you could probably do a base gasket delete with no problems.
Shep
 
I just put new ring In my 520I. I checked squish it was around .060 w/gasket. I did my gasketless didn't even bother to check. However you should ALWAYS check squish. Having said that you could probably do a base gasket delete with no problems.
Shep

How do you check squish ?


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Take out spark plug insert 2 pieces soft solder (I use .031 solder) in cyl. Try to get both pieces solder to the cyl. wall across from wrist pin both sides fly. & clutch side. Roll saw over (I use flywheel nut tightening gently) squishing solder, then measure with (calipers or 1" micrometer) solder @ the tip of solder on both pieces. that is squish measurement.
Shep
 
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