- Joined
- Dec 4, 2016
- Messages
- 1,815
- Reaction score
- 2,779
Well, this hasn't been touched on in awhile so I thought I would do a thread on addressing the dreaded Dolmar puddle problem. The saw being repaired is my DCS4300i, but this repair applies to Dolmar109,110,111,115,ps540 and Makita DCS430,4300,520,5200,540 and possibly others I have forgotten about or not aware of.
Here is the saw cleaned up, and a good view of the 1/2" hole in the crankcase that the oil line passes through. Tank has been drained and clutch, oil pump and the 2 oil lines have been removed at this point. When disassembling these parts, take careful note of the order you remove them. There are a few small washers that need to be oriented in the proper direction, and installed in the proper order.
This are completely cleaned and degreased before going to the next step.
Here is the new oil supply line that will be insatalled. Ensure it is clean also. Also, if your new line does not come with the wire strainer already attached, you will need to carefully remove the strainer from your original line and attach it to your new line.
Incidentally, I checked the grommet diameter of the new line and it was 0.540". The original line that was leaking and loose fitting was 0.510", or 30 thousands smaller. Not much difference, but enough to cause a leak. I assume they must shrink with age and heat cycles.
Here is the goop I used as a sealing compound. Permatex Ultra Black - Maximum Oil Resistance.
Case opening and oil line lubed up and ready for assembly.
And here is the line inserted into the case.
Next up is the output line that feed the bar. It is a really poor design imho, but it's what we have to work with. The line is not attached to the pump! Rather, it is compressed between the pump output hole, and the crankcase when the pump is tightened to the body of the saw. At the other end of the line, it merely rests in a loose fitting slot that feed the bar oiler slot. Al I can say is good luck getting that arrangement sealed up tight.
Here is the output line, and the depression in the case where it sits.
I put some goop at the outlet of the line to try to seal it up a bit better at the bar slot (careful not to block the exit hole in the line). I also added a very small amount to the face of the line where it is compressed by the pump body when the pump is tightened down.
Line installed.
Next, install the pump. Nipple presses into the line below the crank with little effort.
Continued below...
Here is the saw cleaned up, and a good view of the 1/2" hole in the crankcase that the oil line passes through. Tank has been drained and clutch, oil pump and the 2 oil lines have been removed at this point. When disassembling these parts, take careful note of the order you remove them. There are a few small washers that need to be oriented in the proper direction, and installed in the proper order.
This are completely cleaned and degreased before going to the next step.
Here is the new oil supply line that will be insatalled. Ensure it is clean also. Also, if your new line does not come with the wire strainer already attached, you will need to carefully remove the strainer from your original line and attach it to your new line.
Incidentally, I checked the grommet diameter of the new line and it was 0.540". The original line that was leaking and loose fitting was 0.510", or 30 thousands smaller. Not much difference, but enough to cause a leak. I assume they must shrink with age and heat cycles.
Here is the goop I used as a sealing compound. Permatex Ultra Black - Maximum Oil Resistance.
Case opening and oil line lubed up and ready for assembly.
And here is the line inserted into the case.
Next up is the output line that feed the bar. It is a really poor design imho, but it's what we have to work with. The line is not attached to the pump! Rather, it is compressed between the pump output hole, and the crankcase when the pump is tightened to the body of the saw. At the other end of the line, it merely rests in a loose fitting slot that feed the bar oiler slot. Al I can say is good luck getting that arrangement sealed up tight.
Here is the output line, and the depression in the case where it sits.
I put some goop at the outlet of the line to try to seal it up a bit better at the bar slot (careful not to block the exit hole in the line). I also added a very small amount to the face of the line where it is compressed by the pump body when the pump is tightened down.
Line installed.
Next, install the pump. Nipple presses into the line below the crank with little effort.
Continued below...
