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Mcculloch 35A help. Any Mac experts?

thefarmboy21

thefarmboy21

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
150
Age
34
Location
Lawrence county Ohio
Monday I drug out my Grandpas old Mac 35A. I didn't know it even existed really. It's not been ran in close to 40 years I'd say. I can hardly find any info on these style Macs, other than old adds, fuel ratio arguments and I did find the exploded parts view of a model 33. Here is what I need to know:

1. How does that weird "throttle gate lever" that you adjust behind the carb work? I have a parts carb with the lever, but Mine doesn't have it and I really don't want to risk ruining the diaphragm/gasket to take it apart and put one on it, if it's not a necessity. Mine also doesn't have the issue screw or retainer, but the parts carb does....necessity???

2. How do I adjust the carb and do I adjust it by sound like a modern 2-stroke or no?

3. I'm assuming that the diaphram pump in the carb is no longer available, what's the likelihood that mine is bad and also how do I preserve them? I have a spare that appears good from the parts carb, but I don't want it to dry out and ruin either. Can I spray it with trans fluid, 2-stroke oil, PAM spray, or anything to keep it in good condition?

4. I also understand there is some type of diaphram in the tank...how do I check that and are they prone to go bad?

5. Correct or recommended spark plug brand/number?

6. Can anyone tell me or send me a link to the common starter repair? Mine seems to work, but doesn't recoil tight like it should.

7. Anyone know the recommended compression psi? Mine feels good, but haven't started it. Feels like 200 psi and I wanna make sure that's not the starter binding up.
 
thefarmboy21

thefarmboy21

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
150
Age
34
Location
Lawrence county Ohio
Yea, until I got my hands on it all....I just thought there was a carb under there. NOPE that whole thing is the carb. But it seems like all the gaskets and stuff in mine (so far) are good and I've read other articles where guys only had to put fuel in them. I mean.....that's pretty impressive. Carbs built in the 50's still ready to rock! Most carbs get rebuilt annually a lot of times.
 
astnmacgto

astnmacgto

Carnac The Magnificent
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
2,410
Age
24
Location
Illinois
Yea, until I got my hands on it all....I just thought there was a carb under there. NOPE that whole thing is the carb. But it seems like all the gaskets and stuff in mine (so far) are good and I've read other articles where guys only had to put fuel in them. I mean.....that's pretty impressive. Carbs built in the 50's still ready to rock! Most carbs get rebuilt annually a lot of times.
Alot of it has to do with the quality of fuel that was last used in the saw before it was retired, Ive had a few saws that I've pulled out of barns that just ran with fresh gas
ADLM
 
thefarmboy21

thefarmboy21

ArboristSite Operative
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
150
Age
34
Location
Lawrence county Ohio
Alot of it has to do with the quality of fuel that was last used in the saw before it was retired, Ive had a few saws that I've pulled out of barns that just ran with fresh gas
ADLM
What's the best "stabilizer" I can use with crappy ethanol fuel to make sure it doesn't get fouled up? I have no ethanol free fuel available near me.....sucks.
 
astnmacgto

astnmacgto

Carnac The Magnificent
Joined
Aug 6, 2016
Messages
2,410
Age
24
Location
Illinois
I have never used a stabilizer, don't know if any work or not, I don't use ethanol fuel either, if your an occasional cutter I recommend vp canned pre mix fuel, it's expensive though about 7 bucks a quart and it can be bought at your local parts store, I know I'll probably start a fight but I go thru fuel like crazy so I use 100 octane low lead aviation fuel from my local airport, no ethanol, good lubricating properties, super long shelf life and fantastic quality and consistency, and it's only 4 bucks and change per gallon. I get mine 5 gallons at a time and I mix it as I need it just my .02
ADLM
 
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