McCulloch Chain Saws

[Walter Glover]

Out of curiosity, what is the best tool for that purpose (within the typical budget of a basic chainsaw enthusiast)?

Or...., what do you guys rely on for accurate results, particularly for the upper end at the squish band?

Telescoping gauges and a micrometer only way to get good results

 

[heimannm]

We need to get together again Joey and take another photo. I have several more saws to put in the line up with a complete slate of the 82 cc models.



Mark

 

[rwoods]

Can't believe that 7 years has past since I posted this Christmas tree picture. Left to Right: PM800, PM850, PM8200, SP125C, 1-60, PM800, PM700, PM5700, PM800 and bottom center - DE80



Of these the only ones I still have are the two PM800s, the PM700, the SP125C and the 1-60.

I had only the PM700 and the 1-60 before joining AS. Just the 82cc MACs I have had since joining make quite a pile.

SP81E (good motor but not running) - gave to younger member
PM850 (good motor but not running) - gave to younger member
PM850 (runner) - sold on eBay
PM850 (rebuilt) - gave to distinguished member
PM800 - traded to Brian
DE80 (runner) - sold on eBay
PM8200 (poorly running) - gave to distinguished member
PM800 (all good runners) - still have 5
PM805 (good runner until recently, needs card rebuilt) - acquired from Joey
DE80 (like new) - acquired from a non-MAC member.

PM800 (ready to be reassembled following a cold seize).

Total 15 (not counting couple of donor saws)

125Cs also started sprouting since the picture.
1 traded to Brian, 4 remaining plus an ill-fated kart saw.

Really been blessed hanging out here. Hope all have a Merry Christmas.

Ron

 

[fossil]

Can't believe that 7 years has past since I posted this Christmas tree picture. Left to Right: PM800, PM850, PM8200, SP125C, 1-60, PM800, PM700, PM5700, PM800 and bottom center - DE80

View attachment 618010

Of these the only ones I still have are the two PM800s, the PM700, the SP125C and the 1-60.

I had only the PM700 and the 1-60 before joining AS. Just the 82cc MACs I have had since joining make quite a pile.

SP81E (good motor but not running) - gave to younger member
PM850 (good motor but not running) - gave to younger member
PM850 (runner) - sold on eBay
PM850 (rebuilt) - gave to distinguished member
PM800 - traded to Brian
DE80 (runner) - sold on eBay
PM8200 (poorly running) - gave to distinguished member
PM800 (all good runners) - still have 5
PM805 (good runner until recently, needs card rebuilt) - acquired from Joey
DE80 (like new) - acquired from a non-MAC member.

PM800 (ready to be reassembled following a cold seize).

Total 15 (not counting couple of donor saws)

125Cs also started sprouting since the picture.
1 traded to Brian, 4 remaining plus an ill-fated kart saw.

Really been blessed hanging out here. Hope all have a Merry Christmas.

Ron

Great stuff! Merry Christmas to you Ron.

 

[brandonstc6]

Has anyone come across a workable SKF seal for the the flywheel side one a 7-10a. I think I should change the seals for good measure


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[fossil]

Has anyone come across a workable SKF seal for the the flywheel side one a 7-10a. I think I should change the seals for good measure


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not SKF but,

F/W seal: 65736 / 61618, crosses to National / Timken 471551

I mis-typed It should be for MAC 65746 not 65736

 

[brandonstc6]

not SKF but,

F/W seal: 65736 / 61618, crosses to National / Timken 471551

Thanks!


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[Colton T]

Got my SP125c cylinder back from plating. Cannot wait to get it back together and get it in some wood. I have a question that maybe someone here can answer. I have everything to get it back together except the seals but they are on their way and the rod bearings. I cannot find rod bearings the same part number as what the IPL list. I can find the bearings for the 101B, they are listed under a different part number and I don't know if they are the same and just the part number is different because it is a kart engine or are they different all together? Wonder if anyone would know the answer.
View attachment 615774 View attachment 615775

Here is a few of my collection.

I just sent my 125 cylinder to be re-plated and am pumped to get it back, also having my piston skirt coated as well while they have anything; Did you use US Chrome too? Sorry if you answered in previous post this thread is huge!

 

[Brian Thacker]

I did use US Chrome. I wished I had gotten my piston coated. They done an excellent job on my cylinder.

Brian

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Telescoping gauges and a micrometer only way to get good results

Thanks. Been shopping around a little.The gauges I can handle. A decent micrometer set is a little out of reach for me right now. I gather a digital caliper wouldn't provide tight enough tolerances for usable measurements?

 

[Colton T]

I did use US Chrome. I wished I had gotten my piston coated. They done an excellent job on my cylinder.

Brian

Good! Let me know how it runs when you get back together.


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[fossil]

@PogoInTheWoods

Most Vernier calipers are good to +/- .001". I guess it depends what you are measuring for. The trouble with outside micrometers is they generally come 0 - 1". 1 - 2", 2 - 3" etc. so if you were sticking to saw cylinder sizes the 1 - 2 and 2- 3 inch would be required as most of the pistons would fall into this group. You don't need to go digital unless you're hung up on being able to measure in both metric and inch without having to a quick math conversion.

I think for most things a vernier caliper would be fine.
I rarely use a micrometer as I build most parts with an axe (or at least they look like it).

Hopefully a machinist will chime in.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My main purpose would be for measuring cylinders and pistons to whatever the typical tolerances/allowances would be in any given situation. "A", "B", "C", sizes, cylinder wear/taper, piston measurements, squish...

All I have at present is the cheapie digital caliper most folks use for general purposes. Reads out to .01mm/0005in resolution.

 

[heimannm]

I am no skilled machinist by any stretch of the imagination buy I think a set of snap gauges and a micrometer or two are really necessary to accurately measure pistons and bore and know that you are within specifications. I bought a set through Sears more than 35 years ago that have different anvils so I can read anything from 0-1" up to 3-4" just by changing the anvil. I trust the standards that came with the micrometer set to be accurate so I can zero the micrometer out to be sure after making the change.

Mark

 

[Brian Thacker]

Mark, I think I have the same set. I picked them up at an estate auction where they were auctioning off a friends bike shop that had passed away. I also pick up a TDC dial indicator that screws onto different size spark plug hole. Not something you use that often but it is also nice to degree a crank. Several old european motorcycle engines the manuals give timing in mm before TDC.

Brian

 

[super44]

I have been making things out of metal for over 44 years and mark is correct about the basic needs of measuring a small engine. It is really quite simple with just basic tools.

 

[Walter Glover]

I bought a really nice 0-4" micrometer set at a pawn shop for $50 and telescoping gauges for $20
There are deals
Check online tool suppliers as well like Littlemachineshop
Traverstools
Etc

 

[super44]

That Pro Mac 8200 will be coming to my place. Looks to be in great shape and hard to pull over due to compression and I think has the original bar.

 

[Walter Glover]

CDCO Tools is fine as well

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Been looking at a lot of these tools. Ebay is pretty crowded with what appears to be fairly high end stuff at reasonable prices. But there's always that risk factor lurking when it comes to precision items. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll keep my eye out now that I have a better idea of what I'm looking for.