McCulloch Chain Saws

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
When pressure testing a carb do you fellas notice it takes quite a bit to push through the pump checks?
I now keep old carb kit pump diaphragm and use it.

Pressure testing a carb.

You want to make sure the POP off pressure (when the metering needle opens is 9 psi or greater. You don't have to go over ten psi to check it. Some don't pop off until 30 psi or so so it's not a good idea to go that high. The needle should hold 9 or 10 psi without leaking down.

You can do that test without the cover or diaphragm in on the metering side. The rubber tip on the needle should have some mix on it as it will likely leak when dry.

You can put the carb back together and pressure test in a glass of mix or gas and look for air bubbles coming out somewhere.

The pump diaphragm should have no bearing on pressure testing.

As Mark said, Make sure the meter lever is at the correct height. I'm assuming it has an SDC carb on it but the metering needle height is the same if it's a Tillotson HS.

I'm attaching a Walbro SDC manual which is worth the short read and it may help.
 

Attachments

  • Walbro SDC series.pdf
    1.4 MB · Views: 12
What time you plan on arriving Tim. I will be there Saturday afternoon.

My Motel check in time is 2:00 and I need to take a side trip to Granville to pick up some Red Kote and will be heading over after that. I'm guess around 3:30 to 4:00 or so.
It's about a 7-1/2 hour run for the trip down so it might be a bit either way.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
 
Look me up when you get there. I look like the old guy in the pic. I may be wearing a different hat though. Bringing a Homelite Super EZ, Super 650, MAC SP80 and a

Poulan 5200.

Tim

View attachment 647590
I will look for you. Here is my ugly mug lol.
f4ead23e6c8f48d31e5a2b32435b7b89.jpg
 
My Motel check in time is 2:00 and I need to take a side trip to Granville to pick up some Red Kote and will be heading over after that. I'm guess around 3:30 to 4:00 or so.
It's about a 7-1/2 hour run for the trip down so it might be a bit either way.
Looking forward to seeing you there.

I should be ahead of you. I'll keep my eyes open for ya.
 
Out cutting some locust today. Ron came early and cut a while before having to leave and I was held up on business so I came and cut after he left. Got to exercise my 10-10S some. What a great saw. Just runs and starts so nicely.
View attachment 647886

Brian
Mcculloch is the best

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
So fellas, the powder coat shop informed me they received the powder for the 10-10 and it's in the process of being placed in the oven. So now that the re-assembly will be approaching quickly, a few questions for y'all.
  • First, I have researched and found that the longest bar you would want to run on a pro mac 10-10 is a 28" bar, is this correct?
  • Two, I have found a 28" bar on ebay that is a McCulloch sprocket nose bar that is 3/8 pitch and .058 gauge. The previous chain was 3/8 pitch, .05 gauge, so as long as the pitch stays the same then I'm good with the same drive sprocket. With the gauge being different, all I would need is a new chain to match, is this correct?
  • And last, living down here in south Texas, there are not much soft woods around me that I am aware of. Prevalent in this area are oaks, ash, pecan, pine, etc. So the chain I'm thinking would work the best would be a full skip semi-chisel chain. Full skip due to the long bar on 54 cc saw and semi chisel because I'm dealing with harder wood down here.
These are my thoughts y'all, so please, any feedback is welcome. I want to make sure I get the right set up for this saw.

Scott
 
I run a 28" on my favorite 10-10A..., largely for extra reach, not to make large cuts (though it will do so if called upon). The auto oiler handles the length with no problem. That said, you will find it easier to cut hardwood with a 20" setup.

Correct on the chain gauge, though if you use .050 on your other saws and already have loops available, I'd hold out for an .050 bar myself. Gives you flexibility if you do want to change bar length for any reason and have .050 b/c setups.

I'd also concur with your chain choice assessment for typical cutting conditions and your particular bar length. The skip will be a little easier on those 54cc's, too.
 
Something is missing where I mount the handle on my saw. What’s missing? Also, are fuel lines still available? Are spikes still available? Thanks
6cdbb964e6af63b3ed89aabb04f60aab.jpg
711eb837883b66009321a861768434e3.jpg
077296d799071b8314bea742de5ed9ac.jpg
a7ba450830bd1f4090aab05ac9fa1422.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Back
Top