McCulloch Chain Saws

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Im curious what sdc is on your sp81?

Good question. I'm going with either an 8, a 74, or a 37. LOL As mentioned, the original carb was a non-adjustable version that I buggered up a little during disassembly for cleaning and rebuild. Had the adjustable one handy and decided to go that route when Mark indicated he was willing to swap me a tank with the adjustment hole and grommet for the adjustment screws (which is lacking on the tanks with non-adjustable carbs). Can't specifically recall where the adjustable carb came from, but believe it is one of the larger venturi versions originally from one of my 10-10 carcasses.

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As for a possible air leak, it dawns on me that I'd hafta be tuning richer to compensate, not leaner. Now if the air filter was all plugged up....
I also have a very nice idle that was easy to set right where I want it and seems to be staying there. Think I'm pretty tight all the way around.

It was just the top end that was weird which I now attribute to the points being set incorrectly. It's still a hair rich, but winds out quite a bit more than Joey's SP80 as it's currently tuned. Still needs to see some wood to get dialed in. Only a 1/2 turn out on the 'H' still just doesn't seem normal. Still has some 4 stroking to it, tho. I'll put a tach on it later to see where it's actually sitting. May be leaner than I think. I'll assume 11,000 to be about as far as would be safe based on some of the general specs I've seen..., and I do mean general. Doesn't seem like McCulloch ever did get very specific in that area.

Didn't get around to the decal last night. Hope to have time for it this afternoon.
 
Great that its not an air leak. Itll run like heck with one though....for a bit..lol. your picture shows a sdc 37. Thanks, i was just curious. The sp81 i got last december has the sdc51, non adjustable, high jet on it. I have to say though mccullich picked it good cause that saw really runs well. Its original with points also. The only oddity is no chain brake and ahalf wrap bar. I really like it though. The chain brakes are kinda bulky to me. Anyway, it runs great the way it is and ill not change it unless its necessary. Thanks again for tbe response on the carb.
 
I am curious though....cause i like information.....what the other numbers on the sdc carbs are. I read them like a date code. But i really have no idea. Does anyone know if the other numbers are a date of manufacture? That could help narrow down a possible year of tbe chainsaw itself. For instance pogo's carb is an sdc37 made in August of 1974??? Just a thought.
 
Exactly my thoughts (and curiosity) on the date code as well. I actually did a little research on the subject but came up empty. The SDC nomenclature seems relegated to the xx-1 system for the SDC part numbers themselves and makes no mention of the other numbers anywhere I looked for additional info.
 
Glad you got that 81 going good poge and nice to see you on here again. Something really tickles me about those sp80s and 81s really hope to find 1 down here someday. See 850s and 800s but haven't spotted a 81 yet. Have you found a 7-10 yet poge?.

I'm liking the no chain brake cover too Vinny now that I've been using one just nice clean n tidy
 
Any of you guys have experience with the D36. Mine has an air leak, and I'm wondering if it could be sucking air through the oil hole. Mine hasn't been converted to a normal oiler.
 
No 7-10 yet. I know where a couple are, tho. Stubborn owner in one case. Prohibitive shipping in another. Also know where a very nice SP70 is. Just a little too rich for my blood right now. Guess I need to sell a couple of my PM700's for some fun money, eh? (I have 4 of em.)

So here's the sticker on the air filter cover. Thought it was gonna be a more delicate process than it actually was. Biggest hassle was separating the sticker from the backing paper. The magic solution of water, alcohol, and dish soap made it real easy to move around until it was in the final position for drying. Should probably shoot it with some clear coat for protection. A clear matte finish would match the tank much better, too. Turned out ok I guess.

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Ran across this low hour PM10-10 recently for 25 bux. Broken recoil spring. Fires right up and runs great.​

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Need to root through some IPL's to see how closely the model number and carb numbers may actually coincide date-wise. '77 could be about right as dated on the carb (if that's a date stamp), but the SDC 65 still shows up in a 1983 IPL I have for the model number and suffix of the saw, so any correlation may be general at best. And who knows how long the carb sat in inventory before the saw was built. That said, it does seem logical that the extra numbers reference a date for one reason or another.

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No 7-10 yet. I know where a couple are, tho. Stubborn owner in one case. Prohibitive shipping in another. Also know where a very nice SP70 is. Just a little too rich for my blood right now. Guess I need to sell a couple of my PM700's for some fun money, eh? (I have 4 of em.)

So here's the sticker on the air filter cover. Thought it was gonna be a more delicate process than it actually was. Biggest hassle was separating the sticker from the backing paper. The magic solution of water, alcohol, and dish soap made it real easy to move around until it was in the final position for drying. Should probably shoot it with some clear coat for protection. A clear matte finish would match the tank much better, too. Turned out ok I guess.

View attachment 713303

Ran across this low hour PM10-10 recently for 25 bux. Broken recoil spring. Fires right up and runs great.​

Need to root through some IPL's to see how closely the model number and carb numbers may actually coincide date-wise. '77 could be about right as dated on the carb (if that's a date stamp), but the SDC 65 still shows up in a 1983 IPL I have for the model number and suffix of the saw, so any correlation may be general at best. And who knows how long the carb sat in inventory before the saw was built. That said, it does seem logical that the extra numbers reference a date for one reason or another.

Poge I think that was the last of the 54cc 10-10's. I have on and it is a good saw. I think the next model was the 10-10S. That one is in really nice condition.

Brian
 
Any of you guys have experience with the D36. Mine has an air leak, and I'm wondering if it could be sucking air through the oil hole. Mine hasn't been converted to a normal oiler.
It could be, of you flip the saw over there is a rather large flat head screw plug in the bottom center. Under that screw is a very tiny, light spring and a fiber wafer. This acts as the check valve to allow the oil out under pressure but not allow air to be sucked in under vacuum. If it is malfunctioning it will pull air.
It is important to note that that family of saws is a reed valve design. They are far less picky to air leaks than a piston ported motor due to the fact that the crankcase is never truly in a vacuum due to the reeds opening. My bet is on a carburetor problem.
 
It could be, of you flip the saw over there is a rather large flat head screw plug in the bottom center. Under that screw is a very tiny, light spring and a fiber wafer. This acts as the check valve to allow the oil out under pressure but not allow air to be sucked in under vacuum. If it is malfunctioning it will pull air.
It is important to note that that family of saws is a reed valve design. They are far less picky to air leaks than a piston ported motor due to the fact that the crankcase is never truly in a vacuum due to the reeds opening. My bet is on a carburetor problem.
It could very well be a carb problem. When I got the saw the carb was in pieces, and it was missing the ball for the needle and the pivot for the metering arm. It does run but it revs very high and it won't come back to an idle. I've tried adjusting the carb to no success. It's a pretty interesting design with the pull start in the middle, choke button, and automatic oiler.
 
It could very well be a carb problem. When I got the saw the carb was in pieces, and it was missing the ball for the needle and the pivot for the metering arm. It does run but it revs very high and it won't come back to an idle. I've tried adjusting the carb to no success. It's a pretty interesting design with the pull start in the middle, choke button, and automatic oiler.
Best bet on these is to switch them over to a Tillotson. Parts for the original carb are impossible to find. That's what I did with mine with help from some members here. I sold that saw off last year however.
 
Now if that was me cutting,I'd be hitting old maple taps,nails,chains,old rifle slugs,you name it.Lol I did get lucky about 10 or 12 yrs.back when I got a nice sized maple from my neighbor.I missed cutting into an old 3/8 guide wire that'd grown into the tree.I found it when I was splitting the logs.
You guys have all the fun with the big saws.Me,I'm just playing around with the baby Macs,like Eager Beaver 2.0's,Mac 120's,PM310's.I guess I have to start small & work my way up.Lol
Ed
 
Here’s another old Mac doing some work today. I leaned this out a little compared to the last one.

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Here’s another old Mac doing some work today. I leaned this out a little compared to the last one.

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Is the 8200 muffler still the same as the 800? My 800 was never that quiet mind you the gasket was gone though. Sounds awesome now with the older type duct.

Still tight Ron I stripped it down a few days ago and good as gold a seamless conversion must be 6 or more tanks now
 
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