McCulloch Chain Saws

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well just added another one to the collection a pioneer 1074 I don't know what condition its in waiting on it to show up. did pioneer have any promotional/advertising stuff I seen Mcculloch had ashtrays and belt buckles

I'm working on rebuilding the tillotson HL19D that came with my 1-86. I bought an RK88HL kit. This carb has an extra welch plug that did not come in the kit. I am also curious what that little brass plug looking thing is next to the small welch plug. Anyone have any insight? Thinking of just leaving that welch plug alone unless someone has one kicking around.
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That little brass cup plug plugs a channel where they bored a passage.
 
Any help on an ID of this masterpiece? No markings of any kind that I can find anywhere. Runs awesome though and pulls a 24" rs chain just fine.20190320_171454.jpg 20190320_171439.jpg 20190320_171446.jpg 20190320_171431.jpg
 
Yea I don't really pay much attention to that stuff as if it rolls down a bank it mite bend up the carry handle so it could have been replaced or the air filter lid mite have got busted. It's the decomp I see so 70cc it left hand start so prob not a 6-10 it has no operator safety but those bits could be replacements too. Points or electronic would be a big give away as most other bits can all be swapped around off a garden variety 10-10
 
I'm having another minor problem with the 1-52. I replaced the crank seals, installed an atom module, and retuned. It runs really good although I havent had a chance to cut with it yet. The problem is the chain is always spinning, the idle seems plenty low enough by ear and if I put it against something it will stop.
When I took it apart to do the crank seals, I found a thrust washer/wave spring type thing between the clutch drum and the spider. I dont think it is supposed to be there as I do not see it in my IPL. Anyone have any ide why someone would have put that there? I put it back because I never gave it a thought at the time but I think it could cause enough friction to cause the chain to run at idle.
 
I'm having another minor problem with the 1-52. I replaced the crank seals, installed an atom module, and retuned. It runs really good although I havent had a chance to cut with it yet. The problem is the chain is always spinning, the idle seems plenty low enough by ear and if I put it against something it will stop.
When I took it apart to do the crank seals, I found a thrust washer/wave spring type thing between the clutch drum and the spider. I dont think it is supposed to be there as I do not see it in my IPL. Anyone have any ide why someone would have put that there? I put it back because I never gave it a thought at the time but I think it could cause enough friction to cause the chain to run at idle.

Most of my macs have that spring washer thing, I always put it back in. Does your clutch drum have a needle bearing or just the bronze bushing? I know my saws with the bronze bushing need decent lubrication in that area, and they still spin a bit due to the drag.
A lot of my macs have tired clutch springs as well, that's what you get for a 50+ year old piece of equipment.
 
Most of my macs have that spring washer thing, I always put it back in. Does your clutch drum have a needle bearing or just the bronze bushing? I know my saws with the bronze bushing need decent lubrication in that area, and they still spin a bit due to the drag.
A lot of my macs have tired clutch springs as well, that's what you get for a 50+ year old piece of equipment.
I've seen it before too which is why I didnt question it initially. It was only after i couldnt get it to not turn the chain at idle. The IPL doesnt show it either. I think I'm going to try removing it and see what happens. This has a bearing in the drum BTW.
 
I'm having another minor problem with the 1-52. I replaced the crank seals, installed an atom module, and retuned. It runs really good although I havent had a chance to cut with it yet. The problem is the chain is always spinning, the idle seems plenty low enough by ear and if I put it against something it will stop.
When I took it apart to do the crank seals, I found a thrust washer/wave spring type thing between the clutch drum and the spider. I dont think it is supposed to be there as I do not see it in my IPL. Anyone have any ide why someone would have put that there? I put it back because I never gave it a thought at the time but I think it could cause enough friction to cause the chain to run at idle.

Those band springs on the cutch do get weak. Be careful if you consider it, but cutting off a few links and heating the cut end and reforming the hook can help putting some tension back in.
 
NorthEast Tennessee Saturday MAC Report

Awful quite here, keystrokes are echoing. Maybe today's report will wake someone.

Anyway, Brian was out today. I just pulled down hangers this morning with the little Deere. All cutting was with an off-brand as I left home with only one bar nut on the 800. This afternoon Blind Squirrel Falling was back in business but the missing bar nut was just an omen of what was to come - all was not sunny in MAC land. Brian has my favorite SP125C at his shop so I took my Florida SP125C with the 42 or 44 inch (DRW) hard nose bar and the 800 now with two bar nuts. For some reason the 800 ran like the 805 has been. Doesn't want to run at idle. The 125 started right up just like my others do, but it didn't want to idle while on its side. Fine time to discover that peculiarity when I have a 4' or so dead white oak to bring down with an uncertain lean and things you want to preserve located in a potential fall zone. Ended up falling it with the 800 with the 25" bar. Fortunately, it and the others all fell where intended which in the case of the white oak was across our access. Started to buck a section to clear the road and the 800 spit out its spark plug with a loud explosion.

Even my Deere had a bad day. It ran for a few minutes and quit - must of had gelled fuel in the lines. I ran the battery down trying to restart it. After an hour and a half, we were back in business.

Ron

Great Expectations.
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1st tree. Dull chain - 800 doesn't have the oomph to tolerate well a dull .404.
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2nd Tree.
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5th and Last Tree. 125 off in the weeds ashamed. Out of oil and mix - good time to think about quitting for the day.
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Spark but No Compression.
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That's a bugger about the 800 plug hole hopefully a helicoil will sort it out.

I put 3 tanks through my 800 today other than half my homemade muffler cover breaking off it went well. I cut down 3 cypress trees two wer small 20 inches and one was 35 odd I spose and 24inches bar is far too short. No pics or videos my dam fone didn't charge grr

Got half a tank through the pm700 and then the carb went to hell every so often it goes lean and then comes right but not this time she needs rebuilt.

7-10 no2 went amazing really really happy with it just a wonderful saw to run I put a heap of gas through it just couldn't put it down. The fixed jet carb was perfect absolutely on the money. Definitely my favorite saw
 
Also, I purchased this SP125 from "Steven P. Williams" from Facebook.... To be completely honest, what I paid for it is way cheaper than any eBay price out there for one of these, especially in good condition (cosmetically speaking).. It arrived (with a 36" McCulloch Sprocket Tip Bar & Chain). I fueled it up and filled the oil tank. Right away I noticed it leaking fuel.... It was leaking because the line from tank to carb was not snug enough around the hole through the tank. My aftermarket line, surprisingly had a much thicker circumference and did not require any teflon tape to properly seal it up. Currently, I am in the process of replacing the impulse line as well. It was stiff and not all the way secured on the nipple that is attached to the crankcase. Went through the carb (which is a Walbro with the adjustable High Jet) and all of the gaskets and diaphragm were very pliable. The metering lever was properly set according to my Walbro "W" tool. Not worried about the Carb at this point. It does run as if it has an air leak though. Runs at high idle with the idle screw turned all the way out.
Takes a few more seconds than usual for the chain to slow down after letting off of the throttle than a properly tuned saw. A weak clutch could also play into this because the chain never stops moving. But I can tell the RPMs are just too racy for idle. Tried tuning the low jet richer but due to it being a small jet and not the super long jet (where you can tune outside of the airbox - on the left side of the saw), it made it very difficult to even rotate the screw at all. Probably not the proper carb for the saw. Does anyone know the part number for the PTO side seal for this 125? More than likely need it. Or does anyone know if SKF makes one that is a good replacement?? Hoping if I replace the impulse line and the PTO crank seal, all will be well. Spark is strong and White-Blue, by the way...
 

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Just so you can get an idea of how it's running - Here's a buddy running my SP125. (It also did came with a CP125 muffler and not an original SP125 muffler.) Not sure if it made it louder, but it's probably the loudest saw I've ever came across, (including my PM60 with the louvered muffler and any of my 10-10 series)..

 
It also is leaking oil like a sieve... I'm not exactly sure where it is seeping from but it seems to be where the oil tank meets the crankcase. We'll see.. I need to investigate a little more on that one. It does not oil the chain either (at all). Automatic or Manually, SO, I'm assuming it is losing oil at such a fast rate that it can't even pump the oil... Unless there is more to it... If there is, someone chime in please.
 
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