McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

Does it have a compression release? That would be a PM650 and they should all be the same.

Mark

 

[Jasonrkba]

No its a 610. No compression release.

 

[2broke2ride]

Ok, fuel tank gaskets, specifically for the large frame saws. What are you guys using for gasket material? I have 4 saws, 2 front tank and 2 top tank, 3 of them leak. I have been using fel pro karopac material as recommended by one of my local parts houses. I even tried using Indian head on the gasket the last goround. The leaks persist. What gives? I'm getting frustrated with this simple problem.

 

[Brian Thacker]

I buy 1/8" vinton squire O ring and make them out of that. Never have a problem. I just cut to length and glue the ends with super glue and then for extra protection I will use Yamabond where the joint is and works fine. I have used round O ring and worked alright.

Brian

 

[heimannm]

The large frame saws don't have the groove like the 10 Series so a flat gasket is used. Make sure both halves are perfectly flat by sanding them on piece of granite, glass, or your table saw top before assembly and try a different sealer like the Yamabond, Threebond, or Dirko HT.

Mark

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I have an ipl for my titan 70 ,but it doesn't include any details of the manual oiler.
Kind of obscure but if anybody can shed some light on it that would be cool.

 

[Little Jerrry]

Any suggestions for how to remove oil filter hose from a dismantled McCulloch 7-10A....it seems moulded on both sides - do I just heat it up to make the rubber more flexible? Just worried about ruining an item that is difficult to replace.

 

[heimannm]

Maint Sup - the manual oiler is not serviceable, just one hose from the tank (Tee's off to the automatic pump as well) and another that connects to the hard line to the bar pad. Search on Titan 50 or Titan 57 for some great photos mweba supplied.

Jerry - they are just pressed through the hole in the tank. Heating them up can soften them a bit to make it easier to push or pull through the hole but older lines that have gotten stiff make prove impossible to save.

Mark

 

[Little Jerrry]

Awesome, thanks. Enjoying your chainsaw museum update pics.

I feel stupid but how do i remove the bar studs? Looks like I just hammer them out (not threaded in) but my brief attempts with the hammer yielded no results - are they are press fit - I'm nervous about cracking the casing if I get my hydraulic press on it.

Also my saw had no ID tag but it had the number (or what I think is the number) 11858791 scratched onto the oil case lid....would that be a serial number of some kind to ID the saw or just some random number for some other purpose.

 

[vinnywv]

Awesome, thanks. Enjoying your chainsaw museum update pics.

I feel stupid but how do i remove the bar studs? Looks like I just hammer them out (not threaded in) but my brief attempts with the hammer yielded no results - are they are press fit - I'm nervous about cracking the casing if I get my hydraulic press on it.

Also my saw had no ID tag but it had the number (or what I think is the number) 11858791 scratched onto the oil case lid....would that be a serial number of some kind to ID the saw or just some random number for some other purpose.

Your worries are likely real on the bar studs. Im curious as to why you want to remove them? Think about it, if they are going to be that tough to push out into the oil tank, how do you propose pulling them back through? If its for paint purposes, a little tape would go along way towards that kind of frustration. I have a nos oil tank for a 10-10 and ive gotten a sp81 oil tank nos(same). Both came from manufacture with the studs already in there. Personally id not temp fate on that, but i cannot tell anyone what to do.

 

[edju1958]

I had a friend many yrs.ago who restored vintage cars.When it came to painting he was one of the best.Anyway,what he'd do to save a lot of time was to grease chrome around the headlights & the headlights too.When the paint was dry he just took a rag & carefully wiped off the grease.
Ed

 

[sawfun]

I had a friend many yrs.ago who restored vintage cars.When it came to painting he was one of the best.Anyway,what he'd do to save a lot of time was to grease chrome around the headlights & the headlights too.When the paint was dry he just took a rag & carefully wiped off the grease.
Ed

We used to put a thin layer of light clear grease on the back fenders of door slammer cars we drag raced so the rubber wouldn't stick, easy to wipe off.

 

[Brian Thacker]

The bar studs are pressed in. I would not mess with them myself. To big of a risk of breaking the mounting structure trying to get them out.

Brian

 

[ML12]

Ok, fuel tank gaskets, specifically for the large frame saws. What are you guys using for gasket material? I have 4 saws, 2 front tank and 2 top tank, 3 of them leak. I have been using fel pro karopac material as recommended by one of my local parts houses. I even tried using Indian head on the gasket the last goround. The leaks persist. What gives? I'm getting frustrated with this simple problem.

I've had good luck using the thicker karopac material, smeared both sides with motoseal and let it sit for a couple days.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Awesome, thanks. Enjoying your chainsaw museum update pics.

I feel stupid but how do i remove the bar studs? Looks like I just hammer them out (not threaded in) but my brief attempts with the hammer yielded no results - are they are press fit - I'm nervous about cracking the casing if I get my hydraulic press on it.

Also my saw had no ID tag but it had the number (or what I think is the number) 11858791 scratched onto the oil case lid....would that be a serial number of some kind to ID the saw or just some random number for some other purpose.

I wouldn't of touched the paint on that old saw its character and makes it look interesting.

Like a fine older woman who's still got it and knows her way around the wood

 

[vinnywv]

I wouldn't of touched the paint on that old saw its character and makes it look interesting.

Like a fine older woman who's still got it and knows her way around the wood

Lol, thats a great analogy!!

 

[Timdog]

I had a friend many yrs.ago who restored vintage cars.When it came to painting he was one of the best.Anyway,what he'd do to save a lot of time was to grease chrome around the headlights & the headlights too.When the paint was dry he just took a rag & carefully wiped off the grease.
Ed

I use Vaseline on some of the small stuff that I can't get a piece of tape on

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[sawfun]

I wouldn't of touched the paint on that old saw its character and makes it look interesting.

Like a fine older woman who's still got it and knows her way around the wood

Unless the paint is mostly gone, I leave them alone as the scrapes & scratches are kind of earned badges of honor IMHO.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Maint Sup - the manual oiler is not serviceable, just one hose from the tank (Tee's off to the automatic pump as well) and another that connects to the hard line to the bar pad. Search on Titan 50 or Titan 57 for some great photos mweba supplied.

Jerry - they are just pressed through the hole in the tank. Heating them up can soften them a bit to make it easier to push or pull through the hole but older lines that have gotten stiff make prove impossible to save.

Mark

I found the posts, and thank you. Unfortunately I can't see the images even when i hooked up to wifi at work but I think I can interpret what your saying the post. I didn't think the manual oiler was rebuildable, it looks looks pretty fail proof though.
Basically the manual oiler is part of the normal line from tank to bar , correct?

 

[Little Jerrry]

Advice taken guys, bar studs staying where they are - I definately listen to all the advice I have been given on this site...hopefully once I rebuild a few more i'll be able to impart some wisdom of my own....but for now you will need to endure my novice questions...

I wouldn't of touched the paint on that old saw its character and makes it look interesting.

I too liked how it looked but as much as I love chainsaws, my main aim is to get a thorough understanding of hands on chainsaw mechanics and fine tune my powder coating skills for a long term F truck restoration I have underway. I enjoy the restoration and displaying on my wall as opposed to going and cutting wood.

It's proving to be an expensive exercise to obtain old metal cased saws to restore - I got the Stihl 031 and 7-10A for free. Considering I'm dropping around $400-$500 AUD on each saw once you factor in parts / powder coat powder/ shipping form USA / new bars etc, I probably wouldn't do it if I had to outlay $300-$1000 for the old saw. Definately a labour of love as you wont recover the money put into these saws, but they look great in my shed.

I might get hate in this thread but personally I really don't like the almost all bright yellow paint scheme on the McCulloch's. I'm going to have to think of a way to maybe have yellow accents (I can't do a McCulloch saw without yellow) or have satin black mixed with gloss yellow and chrome...i dont know yet.