McCulloch Chain Saws

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Number 59 in that illustration is what I hastily (and incorrectly) referred to in yet a different 10-10 IPL. A correct IPL will have the extended rear frame for the tank that fastens to the handle (as in the illustration I posted) with those oval head 1" 10-24's.
 
I'm working on my 1-50 again & I've run into a bit of a snag.It has a Tillotson HL63A carb on it,what carb kit should I use to rebuild it?Also I've got 2 IPL's compliments of Ray Benson & in neither of the IPL's could I find the chain tensioner screw or nut.Anyone know the part # of the nut?
Ed
 
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/222538615524
This kit will work but wont come with the sintered brass filter in the inlet.
The tensioner on a 1-50 should be a large screw that threads into the fuel tank. The large head on the screw fits into a corresponding half moon slot in the early Mac bars. Someone probably put a later clutch cover on yours.
Thanks Kevin! I did manage to find an actual HL63A kit,but the seller wants $35 for it,not happening.
I have the original cover for the saw & it's as you described.I have an idea though.I have an old cover from a 380 with the tensioner in itI could do a couple of different things that'd allow me to go to a newer style bar.I could use the cover from the 380,or I could take the tensioner nut off the long screw (already did that & it firs on the shorter screw in the 1-50),but it sits too high in the screw channel because of the double ended tit that's on the nut.I can either cut or grind off the extra tit & it should work.
I didn't realize that the head of the screw fit into the bar till you just explained it,then it was like a light bulb coming on.The saw only has an 18 in.bar on it,talk about under-sizing.The saw is 80cc.'s,it should be able to pull at least a 24 in.without a problem IMO.What do you run on your 1-5x?
Ed
 
Thanks Kevin! I did manage to find an actual HL63A kit,but the seller wants $35 for it,not happening.
I have the original cover for the saw & it's as you described.I have an idea though.I have an old cover from a 380 with the tensioner in itI could do a couple of different things that'd allow me to go to a newer style bar.I could use the cover from the 380,or I could take the tensioner nut off the long screw (already did that & it firs on the shorter screw in the 1-50),but it sits too high in the screw channel because of the double ended tit that's on the nut.I can either cut or grind off the extra tit & it should work.
I didn't realize that the head of the screw fit into the bar till you just explained it,then it was like a light bulb coming on.The saw only has an 18 in.bar on it,talk about under-sizing.The saw is 80cc.'s,it should be able to pull at least a 24 in.without a problem IMO.What do you run on your 1-5x?
Ed

My profile picture is a 1-50 with a 30" hardnose bar running .404 skip. Its a nice combo for the wood around here (PNW) but you can't dog it in and lean on it like you can with a more modern 80cc saw. My saw came with an 18" bar originally and ran great that way. I've also run a 24" on it and that was good.

20150502_130037.jpg
 
I have a 1-52 which is actually 87cc so a little bigger. I only run an 18 on it. I do have a 380 that is basically the same saw just a bit newer that I run a 32 with 3/8 skip tooth and it pulls it just fine.
The easiest way to use a newer bar on your 1-50 is to just swap the clutch cover to one with the tensioner in it and remove the sxrew from the fuel tank.
 
I'm working on my 1-50 again & I've run into a bit of a snag.It has a Tillotson HL63A carb on it,what carb kit should I use to rebuild it?Also I've got 2 IPL's compliments of Ray Benson & in neither of the IPL's could I find the chain tensioner screw or nut.Anyone know the part # of the nut?
Ed
Maybe this can help
6f936cf4cbdf1b612a4425097715ffaf.jpg
50dbf6e99d2bbc4d391b5c35b5e5d627.jpg


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I have a 1-52 which is actually 87cc so a little bigger. I only run an 18 on it. I do have a 380 that is basically the same saw just a bit newer that I run a 32 with 3/8 skip tooth and it pulls it just fine.
The easiest way to use a newer bar on your 1-50 is to just swap the clutch cover to one with the tensioner in it and remove the sxrew from the fuel tank.
Yep,I just got off the phone with Bob Johnson & we discussed just what you wrote.I have a 380 also & I'm going to take the cover off to see how it firs on the 1-50.Bob has some used bars that he'll sell me too.It looks to me like ther saw already has .404 rim on it.The # on the driver on the chain is F2
The previous owner really fixed the oil cap.Apparently it broke & he decided to put a bolt through it & double nut it at bothe ends.I don't know how he ever got the cap off to add oil,or maybe he just didn't.Lol

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Well I'm working on a 1-41, put the new coil kit in it ... Haha no spark.
I believe that leaves the points , even though I filed ,gapped and set them its the only original part in the ignition system left. I have a ignition chip but I'm hesitant to use it after reading others misshaps.20190627_154127.jpg 20190627_160252.jpg 20190627_160259.jpg 20190627_160303.jpg
 
Well I'm working on a 1-41, put the new coil kit in it ... Haha no spark.
I believe that leaves the points , even though I filed ,gapped and set them its the only original part in the ignition system left. I have a ignition chip but I'm hesitant to use it after reading others misshaps.View attachment 743711 View attachment 743712 View attachment 743713 View attachment 743714
I've found that sometimes a new set of points is more than a cure.The old set is only good for so long & somertimes filing & re-gapping just won't do it.You might want to think about the condenser if you haven't already replaced it.
Ed
 
Filing points? Using a fine sandpaper works once you file them. They need to be very smooth. I use 1500 grit paper to finish them then turn the paper around to the back side and run the paper backing through the points to get the grit off the points, then regap.
 
What’s wrong with those little 2.0 9” bar mcculloch I think there eager beavers? There top handle?
 
Filing points? Using a fine sandpaper works once you file them. They need to be very smooth. I use 1500 grit paper to finish them then turn the paper around to the back side and run the paper backing through the points to get the grit off the points, then regap.

Yes sir did that and a fancy set of jeweler's files.
 
Help I have a montgomery wards 2.0 tmy saw that has the manual chain sharpener on the clutch side. This has a weird looking barracuda looking chain where can I get new chain?
 
Help I have a montgomery wards 2.0 tmy saw that has the manual chain sharpener on the clutch side. This has a weird looking barracuda looking chain where can I get new chain?
I would imagine the new Oregon powersharp chain would fit on it they don't really work that good most people just take the stone out and put a regular chain on it

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