McCulloch Chain Saws

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Hi guys,
Just bought a pro-mac 10-10, B&C are complete rust so i cant read all the infos on the bar. I wanna know what sprocket size I have to put a new B&C and if possible dont want to remove clutch drum.
Im betting .325 but not sure. Thanks !

Btw, she has not run for more than 15-20 years the seller told me. Carb cleaner in the 3 adjustments screws holes, flesh fuel and she run again. It amazes me everytime

Bar is oregon 1650 1714UQ
View attachment 748494

This is the number on my drum 86948
View attachment 748495
You can buy both bar/chain and drum new from Oregon , check there website parts selection.
 
Hi guys,
Just bought a pro-mac 10-10, B&C are complete rust so i cant read all the infos on the bar. I wanna know what sprocket size I have to put a new B&C and if possible dont want to remove clutch drum.
Im betting .325 but not sure. Thanks !

Btw, she has not run for more than 15-20 years the seller told me. Carb cleaner in the 3 adjustments screws holes, flesh fuel and she run again. It amazes me everytime

Bar is oregon 1650 1714UQ
View attachment 748494

This is the number on my drum 86948
View attachment 748495

It's probably 3/8 chain.
 
That drum is a 3/8 pitch (.375) 7 tooth.You could probably clean up that B&C by soaking it in some kerosene or diesel fuel & then take a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill to remove the rust.PB Blaster works good too,it just takes some elbow grease & patience.
Ed
 
Thanks guy. I had a B&C in 3/8 that was on a 266xp. Not sure the oiler hole are directly right but gonna try it.

That drum is a 3/8 pitch (.375) 7 tooth.You could probably clean up that B&C by soaking it in some kerosene or diesel fuel & then take a wire brush or wire wheel on a drill to remove the rust.PB Blaster works good too,it just takes some elbow grease & patience.
Ed

I thought about that too but the bar is broken, there’s a big piece of the bar missing at the nose sprocket. Thanks!
 
Hi all,I just got another 610 going again.I picked it up for $25 & it's been sitting in the garage for the last 3 or 4 months.Since I got the other 610 going the other day it must've lit a fire under meI threw a rebuilt carb in it that I've had on hand along with a newe plug & a few pulls later it was running beautifully again.I put my last 20 in B&C on it & took it over to the wood pile for a test cut.It cuts nicely,but the chain needs to be sharpened.
I pulled another 610 out of the garage & it's a good thing I did because when I pulled on the recoil it didn't want to turn over.I thought maybe the recoil was buggered up,but after I pulled it off I still couldn't turn it over by the FW.I put a mix of 50/50 tranny fluid & acetone into the cylinder & let it soak.I found that one of the pawls & spring was broke.I had an extra one of each laying around from a 610 I worked on over a yr.ago & put that on.I got the engine to break free & after a while it's got compression like a new saw.I saved it! Tomorrow I'll see if I can get it to pop,but that migt prove difficult because of all the oil in the cylinder.
Ed
 
Thanks guy. I had a B&C in 3/8 that was on a 266xp. Not sure the oiler hole are directly right but gonna try it.



I thought about that too but the bar is broken, there’s a big piece of the bar missing at the nose sprocket. Thanks!
You could fimd the replacement nose and I soak my rusty bars in white vinegar and water for 2 days and the rust wipes off but you HAVE TO oil it immediately.
 

Pretty sure there a heap of options for the large frame. I see bar spacers mentioned a lot for a slimline bar. If the bar stud slot is too narrow a 5 inch grinder could probably do the heavy lifting and then finish with a file. Slog out the adjuster holes to where you need with a chain file or dremel.
 

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