McCulloch Chain Saws

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I've got a nice 10-10A that I picked up back in Feb.I rebuilt the carb,put a new fuel line & filter on it & it ran beautifully when I was out cutting with it back in the early spring,then it just quit.I checked it out today & found one of the problems was that I had a bad spark plug plus it's not drawing fuel.It ran fine,so what would cause it to just quit drawing fuel?It has plenty of copmpression & it'll fire with fuel in the carb.
Ed
 
edju1958 said:
I've got a nice 10-10A that I picked up back in Feb.I rebuilt the carb,put a new fuel line & filter on it & it ran beautifully when I was out cutting with it back in the early spring,then it just quit.I checked it out today & found one of the problems was that I had a bad spark plug plus it's not drawing fuel.It ran fine,so what would cause it to just quit drawing fuel?It has plenty of copmpression & it'll fire with fuel in the carb.
Ed
Click to expand...
Same thing happened with my pro 60 , when I rebuilt the carb and installed a new fuel line it was cool to cold out , started using it in warmer weather and it was shutting off, no fuel.
The new fuel line was collapsing in the warmer temps . I installed 3 different lines all collapse in hot temps , so I put a spring in the line fixed the issue.
 
Interesting side note ,I'm sort of on a learning curve with chainsaws so if I run into a problem I check the foroms,ipls,and shops but if its just common knowledge and I haven't heard about it I don't know.
Example, you SHOULD NOT run a chainsaw without the drum installed on the clutch.
I exploded my Titan 70 clutch.
Poop.
 
Yeah,it's dangerous to run a saw without a clutch drum on.I know a guy who won't even run a saw unless it's fully put together with the bar & chain on too.He said he had a clutch come off & hit the wall in front of him,come bouncing off the wall,fly by his head barely missing him & then hit the wall behind him.He said it scared the crap out of him.
As for my 10-10 with the carb problem,I'm going to have to pull the carb off & go through it again.I messed around with the needle settings & got it to fire a little.The new hose I put on has a spring in the end where it hooks on the carb.They have to have one in there because of the sharp bend in the line right there.
Ed
 
So, i was handed a saw to look at the other day. Its a mcculloch 10 series. Has no id plate. Its small rigid frame. Missing lots of parts. Heres what ive found so far...it has a walbro sdc 2 carburetor. Right hand start. The compression valve is above the muffler levered by the stop switch when you push it down. The oil pump is metal not plastic, but is in the oil tank. Has a point ignition system. I thought it was a 2-10. However, i measured the bore through the intake with the carb removed and i got 2" bore. That tells me its not a 2-10. But rather a 70cc model. What are the differences in those that could help determine which saw i have here? It needs lots of little parts before i even attempt a start. It does roll over with really good compression. Have not checked spark yet. Any thoughts? I do not have any pictures right now, sorry. Vinny
 
Could you get a pic on here?A 70 cc with a DSP sounds like a 7-10,but what throws me off is the DSP is connected to the stop switch like a 2-10?This should be interesting!
Ed
 
Was the 6-10 a 70 cc saw? (4.3 c.i.) I have two 7-10's,so I knew it couldn't be a 7-10 because the DSP is not on the switch.I went through all the 10 series saws trying to figure out which one it could be.
Ed
 
Going by the carb alone I'd be inclined to agree with Kevin that it's leaning toward a 6-10A with an early 83128 automatic pump body which preceded the common 83787 body -- from what I've been able to figure out so far, and if it has the automatic oil pump. The manual only oiler used a small 68711 check valve body in the tank which was presumably metal but impossible to determine from the IPL.
 
Hey guys, thanks for the information. Im not sure if the oil pump is auto yet without it running. Ive got a 7-10 and it is not that. Its a smaller frame altogether.
Im inclined to say 6-10 myself but im just not sure....ill get a picture once i get moving. Midnight shift....i just woke up.
 
What's some identifying features between the 5-10 6-10 saws? Could it be an early 7-10 like Kevin's with a right hand start thrown on orrr is Kevin's a 6-10 with a left hander put on it. Just too throw another spanner i have a 7-10 with a metal pump and pop up valve but once again could be swapped in it
 
Heres some pictures. Right hand start clutch. Dsp on stop switch. Missing lots of little parts though, both linkages, idle and high adjusting extensions, plate that holds air filter cover on, air filter cover, air filter, gaskets, bolts and plate that hold the top onto the bottom around the intake, im not sure if anything else is missing yet. Ill clean it this week.
 

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