McCulloch Chain Saws

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Starting to take a closer look at my pro mac 10-10 to get ready to replace the crank seals. I havent read the service manual yet, but i have been watching some videos on tear downs, and I'm wondering if the clutch on this saw needs to be spun off or if it should just slide off? Its a LH start, and doesnt appear to be a keyed clutch.
 
Starting to take a closer look at my pro mac 10-10 to get ready to replace the crank seals. I havent read the service manual yet, but i have been watching some videos on tear downs, and I'm wondering if the clutch on this saw needs to be spun off or if it should just slide off? Its a LH start, and doesnt appear to be a keyed clutch.

Got the nut off? wind the nut back on but keep the crank below flush now grab it by the clutch and hold up the saw so all its weight is hanging by the clutch now give that nut a wack or two with a hammer a soft copper hammer preferably but if nice and square a regular hammer will be ok. The saw went drop it will just fall till the nut stops it.

Same again for the flywheel
 
Starting to take a closer look at my pro mac 10-10 to get ready to replace the crank seals. I havent read the service manual yet, but i have been watching some videos on tear downs, and I'm wondering if the clutch on this saw needs to be spun off or if it should just slide off? Its a LH start, and doesnt appear to be a keyed clutch.
See what Jethro said. I'll only add that the clutch nut is LH threaded .... That might be obvious.

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I am looking for a 850 or a 1010 any body got one

Good luck on the 850 lol the 10-10 be easy enough. Put an add in the trading post. I take it you're after any 10 series? Good saws be patient you'll wind up with a heap in a few months.
I say good luck on the 82cc as we all love ours:)
 
Got the nut off? wind the nut back on but keep the crank below flush now grab it by the clutch and hold up the saw so all its weight is hanging by the clutch now give that nut a wack or two with a hammer a soft copper hammer preferably but if nice and square a regular hammer will be ok. The saw went drop it will just fall till the nut stops it.

Same again for the flywheel
Thanks, guys! I figured that would be the case. I just didnt want to start wailing on it and screw up any threads. Excited and equally terrified about this process :)
 
I have been watching some videos about Bob Walker and building a custom full circle crank shaft for a saw instead of an offset one. Does the Sp81 have a full circle crankshaft counterweight? If it doesn’t would this be possible for a machinist to build? I know a very good machinist. He’s good and would probably grumble about the left hand threads. Would that be possible for an average machinist? He is better than average.
 
Good effort on the fuel line
Wow!!!! On a saw that the right air filter costs like $10 lol

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Paid $45 for the saw. Brian rebuilt it with new lines, filter, rings, seals, etc. Given to RandyMac in appreciation for his numerous contributions to this thread and others.

Ron
 
I have been watching some videos about Bob Walker and building a custom full circle crank shaft for a saw instead of an offset one. Does the Sp81 have a full circle crankshaft counterweight? If it doesn’t would this be possible for a machinist to build? I know a very good machinist. He’s good and would probably grumble about the left hand threads. Would that be possible for an average machinist? He is better than average.
It could be that there was more then one crank used depending on the total cost of the finished engine as some rich people even back then used some of these engines in a go - cart use etc. It would be best to get one of the better cranks if you can and not sweat the machining up front. IMO.
 
I've got a pile of good runners.
1-40's, 1-50's, but I very rarely use them old heavy dogs except when a big log is down and I want to drink a cup of coffee while I hold the trigger down letting the weight of the heavy mac do the one hand cutting while I drink a cup of coffee with the other. I can just relax while the old heavy mac is working using it's own weight to do the work cutting. Takes two hands for the lighter saws.

I use my lighter weight saws for felling and trimming.
 
I always leave plug in and block off the intake and exhaust I put a fitting in the easiest one to access, I like
using the intake since it's the lowest port. Easiest to do when saw is disassembled
Thanks! I get placing rubber between case and muffler, but how do you hook up the pressure tester to the intake? Some sort of purchased fitting, or is it homemade?
 
Thanks! I get placing rubber between case and muffler, but how do you hook up the pressure tester to the intake? Some sort of purchased fitting, or is it homemade?
Machining or grinding a connector is often called for with all the different shapes of saws intakes. I'm thinking sometimesone can buy the factor rubber intake tube and use that modified with a wood or rubber plug installed.
Some times it is very straight forward and somewhat easy to do. Other time it is just a pain.
 
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