McCulloch Chain Saws

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Tim - I compiled my list from the information in the McCulloch Engine Carburetors Usage Guide & Illustrated Parts List Revision 1, 2, and 3. Since McCulloch was always changing and updating there were later changes not addressed in the manual. I just threw the Zama on the list since I knew they used it on saws that came out after the last guide was published.

Ed - 3/32x3/16", get real Tygon if you can. I order it from McMaster Carr 25' and a time.

Mark
 
By the way - I am still having issues with the computer at home giving me an error, I think it actually says "Internet Blocked" or something like that when I try to access ArboristSite. No problems from my phone or from the computer in the museum office but I generally try to catch up at the end of the day and I am unable to do that currently. I am able to visit the other site, e-Bay, etc. from home without issues, only ArboristSite has this problem.

Mark
 
Is there any easy way to re-thread the threads on a crankshaft? I was attempting to remove a flywheel by tapping on the nut method (which has never ever failed me in the past) and it messed up some of the threads.. now the nut won’t screw all the way on...
 
Is there any easy way to re-thread the threads on a crankshaft? I was attempting to remove a flywheel by tapping on the nut method (which has never ever failed me in the past) and it messed up some of the threads.. now the nut won’t screw all the way on...
That's weird...usually you'd mess up the thrrads on the end, not toward the middle.

Would the threads clean up with a die?
 
I really hate to say it but a SP125. They don’t look terribly bad and I probably didn’t have the nut far enough down on the crankshaft. I had just gotten the PTO crank seal to go in properly too.
 

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I really hate to say it but a SP125. They don’t look terribly bad and I probably didn’t have the nut far enough down on the crankshaft. I had just gotten the PTO crank seal to go in properly too.

That looks fixable. Always have the nut virtually flush with the threaded shaft whenever tapping on it. And use a brass or polymer mallet.
 
I have an entire tool box of modified pullers now, because of my fear of messing up a crank that can't be bought" down the street ". There's a few not even shown in the box! I figured it was cheap to break pullers than cranks.
I have used the "smack with heavy object " method but I used a 2 lb brass drift.20200526_182050.jpg
The thead restoring tools do work well, and I've used them on lug studs.
 
Mark,I found out by sheer dumb luck today the size of the fuel line for the 3216.I was at the "belt store" to get a new belt for my riding mower & just happened to ask if they carried any small fuel line.The attendasnt said "we sure do" & I hauled out a piece out of my pocket about 3 in.long & asked "this small"?He said yes & went & got a box of genuine Tygon fuel line.I asked what size it was & he told me 3/32 IDx3/16 OD.I took what he had which was 8.75 ft.,& it was cheap too at 78 cents/ft.I managed to scrounge up just enough to do the 3216 yesterday,but I had no more of that size left.
 
Mark,I found out by sheer dumb luck today the size of the fuel line for the 3216.I was at the "belt store" to get a new belt for my riding mower & just happened to ask if they carried any small fuel line.The attendasnt said "we sure do" & I hauled out a piece out of my pocket about 3 in.long & asked "this small"?He said yes & went & got a box of genuine Tygon fuel line.I asked what size it was & he told me 3/32 IDx3/16 OD.I took what he had which was 8.75 ft.,& it was cheap too at 78 cents/ft.I managed to scrounge up just enough to do the 3216 yesterday,but I had no more of that size left.

If you read my email reply to your question your would have known on Monday.
 
Mark,I found out by sheer dumb luck today the size of the fuel line for the 3216.I was at the "belt store" to get a new belt for my riding mower & just happened to ask if they carried any small fuel line.The attendasnt said "we sure do" & I hauled out a piece out of my pocket about 3 in.long & asked "this small"?He said yes & went & got a box of genuine Tygon fuel line.I asked what size it was & he told me 3/32 IDx3/16 OD.I took what he had which was 8.75 ft.,& it was cheap too at 78 cents/ft.I managed to scrounge up just enough to do the 3216 yesterday,but I had no more of that size left.
I should note this, it's probably the same as my garbage-picked 3818, which will almost certainly need fuel lines.
 
I should note this, it's probably the same as my garbage-picked 3818, which will almost certainly need fuel lines.
Yes,I have a 3816 (same engine,just different size bar) & it takes the same size line.I actually have 2 of them & one has a bad ignition module.A new module is $40 from Bob J.,but I'm not sure it's worth putting $40 into.
 
Yes,I have a 3816 (same engine,just different size bar) & it takes the same size line.I actually have 2 of them & one has a bad ignition module.A new module is $40 from Bob J.,but I'm not sure it's worth putting $40 into.

I checked out my roadside-special out a few weeks ago.... Has a bright spark and 150psi compression. Score.

It's just leaking bar oil all over the place, and some kind folks here told me about the oil line that always breaks.
 
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