McCulloch Chain Saws

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Someone didn't get the rare and valuable memo I guess.
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Homelite collector in training! [emoji879]
 
I guess it would depend on the layout under the cowl, if there was room and adequate venting. It's very common to repower the older Onan powered JD tractors with a Honda or Briggs because they are so expensive to rebuild. Some of the small JDs like a 430 had a small liquid cooled Yanmar diesel engine with the radiator on the back of the engine behind the dash, something like that would be difficult or impossible to use a different engine. I don't know much about a JD 345.
There goes my theory, you already know more about them than I do lol.

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Hey Guys going to look at this saw tonight. It has no model sticker on it. Kinda looks like a 650 if you guys can help me out. Also it’s supposed to have a chain break but it’s missing thanks
 

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Does anyone know how the metering lever should be set in the Zama carb of a Super Pro carb 40? I found a guide from Zama that says it should be virtually flush with carb body...but then SOME Zama carbs (C3?) Should be more like 50 thousandths below the carb body. It also looks like this might apply to a C1 Zama but a C1U should be flush?? I am installing a genuine Zama rebuild kit, and my lever is a good 50 thousandths below the carb body. Anyone have any advice before i start bending things?
 

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...its uni coarse filter material.

For Uni-Foam, I'd go with the green (fine) 65ppi and a very thin application of Bel-Ray filter oil..., pretty much a poor man's MaxFlow system for a Mac. Should still get plenty of air flow and much better filtration. Could maybe even hot glue it.
 
Upon inspection I think my metering lever is the "flat" style in Figure B of the Zama guide, which should be 2mm below the carb body and level with the inner body surface. Since i have to push it down slightly to be level with the inside of the carb body, i may have to bend it down slightly, based on this picture?:
 

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Does anyone know how the metering lever should be set in the Zama carb of a Super Pro carb 40?
It certainly depends on which actual carb and type of metering lever, but I think your last post is correct. The 'straight' type of metering lever should be flush with the metering chamber floor, not the upper carb body itself.
 
It certainly depends on which actual carb and type of metering lever, but I think your last post is correct. The 'straight' type of metering lever should be flush with the metering chamber floor, not the upper carb body itself.

I think you're right....i will tweak it down slightly. Also, thanks for the encouragement to reseal the clamshell, my 2nd attempt turned out much better:
 

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The model/serial number tag on the 600 Series saws is attached to the shroud over the cylinder head right below the spark plug. This is a model 650, model # 600046 with the letter "D" suffix.

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While they are frequently criticized for being being heavy (they are) and underpowered compared to comparable displacement saws (could be) they are also in my experience very reliable and will quite likely cut a lot of wood if that's what you need. There are still plenty of parts available for most needs as well.

Mark
 
Yeah,it's been a while since I worked on any saws in the 600 series.Lol I did fiddle with a 610 today for about 10 min.I've got about 5 or 6 that'll only fire on a prime.It drives me crazy why they won't pull fuel.They've got rebuilt carbs,got good compression,& I've checked to make sure the impulse holes are open.
 

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