McCulloch Chain Saws

[2broke2ride]

A 1-86 is a very nice saw in its own wright.

I know lol, just ideas that run through my head lol.

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[heimannm]

Kevin - The 1-40, 1-50, 1-41, 1-42, and 1-43 all were without bearings in the piston or connecting rod on the small end.

Mark

 

[2broke2ride]

Is this .354 chain? It was on a 16 inch hardnose mac bar on my 3-10E when I got it. Doesnt look like it's ever been filed. It is 62DL. If someone wants, they can have it for the cost of shipping. The bar has a chunk out of the nose unfortunately but that can go too.

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[2broke2ride]

One more basic question. Should a 1-51 have a full wrap handle like the rest of the 1-5× series?

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[2broke2ride]

One more basic question. Should a 1-51 have a full wrap handle like the rest of the 1-5× series?

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[ThistleIA]

One more basic question. Should a 1-51 have a full wrap handle like the rest of the 1-5× series?

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Mine does,all the others of that model I seen had one too.The IPL confirms it

 

[2broke2ride]

Mine does,all the others of that model I seen had one too.The IPL confirms it

Thank you, I thought so.

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[edju1958]

I have a 1-50,the only one in the 1-5x series that I have,& it has a full wrap handle.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

One more basic question. Should a 1-51 have a full wrap handle like the rest of the 1-5× series?

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I have a full wrap handle on my 1-41 , but they all interchange handles in that body style.

 

[2broke2ride]

I already had a 1-50 and a 1-52, just got a 1-51 and it doesnt have a full wrap.
I just need a 1-53 to complete the series lol.

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[edju1958]

There's a 1-53 on Feebay,but I think it's kinda pricey (around $200).
Edit:I just looked,there are 2 1-53 saws on Feebay & the seller wants $150 each.

 

[2broke2ride]

Ya, I wouldnt pay that unless it was perfect lol.

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[edju1958]

Ya, I wouldnt pay that unless it was perfect lol.

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Me either.

 

[2broke2ride]

Is this .354 chain? It was on a 16 inch hardnose mac bar on my 3-10E when I got it. Doesnt look like it's ever been filed. It is 62DL. If someone wants, they can have it for the cost of shipping. The bar has a chunk out of the nose unfortunately but that can go too.

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Just bumping this up in case someone missed it and wants it.

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[McCullochKid]

I have an update! Some good and bad news.
The good news is, I got the 10-10A running. My second carb kit doesn't arrive until monday, but while I'm waiting, I got thinking today and decided to pull off the carb from one of the other 10-10 saws that also uses an SDC and inspect it.
I noticed right away that the carb didn't noticeably smell like bad old gas, so I carefully took the cover off the diaphragm side and felt that it still appeared to be relatively soft and supple.
At that point I figured I had nothing to lose, so I stuck it on the saw I've been working on, got everything connected in(used the heat gun and needle nose plier trick for the fuel line), filled the tank, primed it a little, and a few pulls later it roared into life with a triumphant cloud of white smoke before settling down into a steady idle. The automatic and manual oil pump works great. Feels good.

After that I got the brand new bar and chain that I bought for the saw on, which was trickier to do than I anticipated, followed by taking it out to a big downed alder for some test cuts.
I thought it cut wonderfully, these old saws are no joke. My >>>limited<<< saw experience is from helping my old man buck firewood with his Stihl 029 over the years, so that saw is my only point of reference, but I thought it cut just as well if not better than the 029. After cutting for awhile, the saw started to act strange and quickly died. Quickly figured out that I ran out of gas lol. Decided to call it for the day because I noticed a couple issues which I'll get to now.

The bad:
I noticed right away that my cuts are curving off to the right, the saw also has a tendency to rattle/chatter a bit when this is happening once it's about halfway into the log. The bar is new, so I know it's not worn out, and I made sure to match the gauge of the chain with the bar. The chain is facing the correct direction. The chain was admittedly fresh out of the box. I don't know how sharp chains generally are new from the box, but I wanted to get a feel for how it cut as-is before I start attempting to learn the art of sharpening myself. I realize that this could very well be the source of the problem right there, but I'd like to hear other thoughts and advice before I proceed.

Second, I noticed that after I had gotten the bar and chain on and went to put the clutch cover/chain brake back on, that it would appear the rim of the clutch drum or something has been grinding into the clutch cover at some point in the saws past. See pics:


I couldn't figure out why it might have been doing this, so instead of potentially making things worse I decided to use the older style, no brake clutch cover off of one of the other saws for now.
By the way, using a saw without a chain brake for the first time amazed me at how safe having one makes you feel, which is probably a bad thing. I was extra alert and cautious when I was making my test cuts.

Also, how do you find the sweet spot for a carb? When I swapped the carb over I left the adjustments the way they were, but I'm really curious how one knows when everything is just right. When it's too low or too high, or how you know if it's running lean or rich, etc...
Please forgive my inexperience when it comes to this area of saw tuning/maintenance. I might have some bucking experience, but these things like sharpening and carb tuning are all new territory to me.

I've really appreciated the helpful and kind comments and advice from everyone so far. Thanks!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I have an update! Some good and bad news.
The good news is, I got the 10-10A running. My second carb kit doesn't arrive until monday, but while I'm waiting, I got thinking today and decided to pull off the carb from one of the other 10-10 saws that also uses an SDC and inspect it.
I noticed right away that the carb didn't noticeably smell like bad old gas, so I carefully took the cover off the diaphragm side and felt that it still appeared to be relatively soft and supple.
At that point I figured I had nothing to lose, so I stuck it on the saw I've been working on, got everything connected in(used the heat gun and needle nose plier trick for the fuel line), filled the tank, primed it a little, and a few pulls later it roared into life with a triumphant cloud of white smoke before settling down into a steady idle. The automatic and manual oil pump works great. Feels good.

After that I got the brand new bar and chain that I bought for the saw on, which was trickier to do than I anticipated, followed by taking it out to a big downed alder for some test cuts.
I thought it cut wonderfully, these old saws are no joke. My >>>limited<<< saw experience is from helping my old man buck firewood with his Stihl 029 over the years, so that saw is my only point of reference, but I thought it cut just as well if not better than the 029. After cutting for awhile, the saw started to act strange and quickly died. Quickly figured out that I ran out of gas lol. Decided to call it for the day because I noticed a couple issues which I'll get to now.

The bad:
I noticed right away that my cuts are curving off to the right, the saw also has a tendency to rattle/chatter a bit when this is happening once it's about halfway into the log. The bar is new, so I know it's not worn out, and I made sure to match the gauge of the chain with the bar. The chain is facing the correct direction. The chain was admittedly fresh out of the box. I don't know how sharp chains generally are new from the box, but I wanted to get a feel for how it cut as-is before I start attempting to learn the art of sharpening myself. I realize that this could very well be the source of the problem right there, but I'd like to hear other thoughts and advice before I proceed.

Second, I noticed that after I had gotten the bar and chain on and went to put the clutch cover/chain brake back on, that it would appear the rim of the clutch drum or something has been grinding into the clutch cover at some point in the saws past. See pics:
View attachment 850229
View attachment 850230
I couldn't figure out why it might have been doing this, so instead of potentially making things worse I decided to use the older style, no brake clutch cover off of one of the other saws for now.
By the way, using a saw without a chain brake for the first time amazed me at how safe having one makes you feel, which is probably a bad thing. I was extra alert and cautious when I was making my test cuts.

Also, how do you find the sweet spot for a carb? When I swapped the carb over I left the adjustments the way they were, but I'm really curious how one knows when everything is just right. When it's too low or too high, or how you know if it's running lean or rich, etc...
Please forgive my inexperience when it comes to this area of saw tuning/maintenance. I might have some bucking experience, but these things like sharpening and carb tuning are all new territory to me.

I've really appreciated the helpful and kind comments and advice from everyone so far. Thanks!

As far as tuning goes your intial settings for the sdc carb are 1 full turn out from lightly seated on the high and low screws . Form there its mostly how the saw reacts to those settings, if its sluggish when you stab the throttle its probably too lean on the low screw , if it struggles in the cut try alittle more fuel on the high side .
Theres virtually no danger in giving the saw more fuel, its when your tuning to get more rpms and cut speed that you start to dance on the edge of destruction.
The wonderful thing about McCulloch saws and most older saws is that hearing the 4 stroke transition to 2 stroking is relatively easy . Alot people hear the macs and say that thing sounds like a hot rod because its got that deep burble and lumpy brap! ,but in the cut it should transition from the hot rod to more high pitched whine ,what people say "clean up in the cut"

Its easy to hear with this saw . I feel like this saw is tuned correctly and cuts well.
Cutting crooked could be the chain or if your subconsciously leaning on the saw or pivoting on the bucking spike too much, but these are problems of having actual torque. Try letting the saw self feed , and see if it cuts crooked.

 

[MacAttack]

The earliest Mini Mac 6 models had a different cap altogether with a built in vent and baffle arrangement. I supposed they also leaked...

Mark

Is this an example of the vented cap? This is the tank and cap from the MM6 I recently acquired. There does not appear to be a pinhole, and these caps are different from my other Mini Macs:

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I noticed right away that my cuts are curving off to the right, the saw also has a tendency to rattle/chatter a bit when this is happening once it's about halfway into the log.

Glad to hear progress is being made.

You may want to ensure your chain tension is adequately snug. Too much slop can allow the chain to wander around enough to begin finding its own path contrary to the bar groove. There are other common causes for a chain cutting at an angle, but a new bar and chain setup usually isn't one of them..., unless the chain immediately encountered something to dull just the cutters on one side. Check the cutters for uniform sharpness on each side to rule out (or in) that possibility.

As for the chatter, check the wear on your drive sprocket. Could be the cause, or at least a contributor. The chain will get drier as it gets into a thicker part of the cut which can also cause some chatter. Give the manual button a few good pumps next time and see if it quiets down a little, though the auto oiler should be more than adequate unless turned way down, oil delivery is obstructed, and/or a longer(or incorrect) bar than the oiler is set up for is being used.

The clutch cover wear could be from a clutch coming loose or a broken spring somewhere along the line. The wear on the outer edge of the shoes would possibly suggest the latter, though debris buildup or a small item (rock, piece of metal, etc.) could have been the culprit. The covers are very soft metal. Wouldn't take much to create that amount of wear at the rpm's involved..

 

[rwoods]

... .

Second, I noticed that after I had gotten the bar and chain on and went to put the clutch cover/chain brake back on, that it would appear the rim of the clutch drum or something has been grinding into the clutch cover at some point in the saws past. See pics:
View attachment 850229
View attachment 850230
I couldn't figure out why it might have been doing this, so instead of potentially making things worse I decided to use the older style, no brake clutch cover off of one of the other saws for now.
By the way, using a saw without a chain brake for the first time amazed me at how safe having one makes you feel, which is probably a bad thing. I was extra alert and cautious when I was making my test cuts.

... .

I've really appreciated the helpful and kind comments and advice from everyone so far. Thanks!

Welcome to the MAC thread. I don't see any bar plates in your pictures - were they installed?

You have a chain brake cover -fix or replace it if necessary. No need in my opinion to run a LH start ten series without a brake - even though it can be a pain with a full wrap.

Ron

 

[2broke2ride]

Here's the 7-10 in all its glory. Chain needs a sharpen and man is it loud with no muffler cover lol.


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