Nice 10 Series. Is there any differences between the Special Edition and the normal Mac 10-10S ?
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Justin
McCulloch Chain Saws
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Justin
2broke2ride
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I ordered the diaphragms from sugar creek...... if its like the last time I ordered it will be a few weeks so I will throw a Tilly in there for now.
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Ya know Vinny,that's not even funny,Lol.
Last night I pulled the clutch drum on my 5-10 and saw that it had "eaten" a length of string that took out the crank seal, so I decided to pull the seals on both sides just to be safe and will be getting new ones shortly. The flywheel side one said it was a NDK 61618-4 which I found easily enough, but the clutch side doesn't have any numbers on it and I was hoping one of you guys might know a generic equivalent. I also need a new flywheel nut as I somehow manage to wreck every single one I pull off. I'm looking forward to running this but every time I think I'm done something new comes up.
SFK 6119
For what it's worth, 61618 is also the McCulloch part number for that flywheel side seal (presses into the wide outer race of the bearing).
Mark
For what it's worth, 61618 is also the McCulloch part number for that flywheel side seal (presses into the wide outer race of the bearing).
Mark
I should look to see if I can find the pics of the SP81 before it was cleaned up,pretty ugly looking it was.Here are pics of it now with a new bar & chain on it.This is the first Archer bar that I had trouble with.The slot wasn't machined back far enough towards the tail,I had to file out a bit more than 1/16-3/32 in.Now it fits fine.
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That's a shame. Why say "Special Edition" if nothing is special about it ?
Justin
It's McCulloch. Masters of marketing. It is special its got a special edition sticker
That's a lovely saw ya got there. Very nice
That's a lovely saw ya got there. Very nice
Fair enough
@heimannm, Mark I have two questions, one on, one off topic. I got my parts from Bob for my 7-10. I ordered a piston and rings. He called the next day and said he found a new piston and rings that he hung on a rod for some reason, so he just sent me the rod too. I said cool. I thought it would be easier to just slide the whole thing in and torque the rod cap down. He said the bolts for the rod cap are some weird size, and if it was him, he'd press the piston off and put it on my rod. The rod has all new bearings on it, I'm putting all new bearings and seals in it. If I could, I'd like to put the new rod in too. Do you know what size and type torx/allen the rod cap takes? He said 65-70 inch pounds on the rod cap. What are the torque specs for the case?
Second question, I was reading some 10-15 year old threads on Blade saws. I know you said you sold yours. Any chance you've dug up a blade moving? Mine is a B520, 115CC. Thanks, Joe.
Second question, I was reading some 10-15 year old threads on Blade saws. I know you said you sold yours. Any chance you've dug up a blade moving? Mine is a B520, 115CC. Thanks, Joe.
The 57s run very well too special or not they are all special. Mine outperforms a ms311 which yeah aint no pro stihl but still 59cc and modern
For those who commented on bearing separators, I ended up going with the 2" kit thinking it would be adequate for typical saw-size bearings. Oh so close, but no cigar.
The separator bolts themselves are too small in diameter (imho) through the holes in the clamp and allow the clamp to flex inward/upward even with the vertical support puller bolts in place. There's just not enough heft in the assembly to apply the force needed for the separator cup to sneak under the bearing. Better hardware and some creative grinding on the cup may be a solution, but the larger version would probably be the optimum way to go..., at least for stubborn bearings on saw cranks. Nice little kit otherwise and should work fine for less demanding or smaller applications. Shoulda worked for this crank bearing in my opinion. Just didn't want to force it and break it. Went through Amazon and should be able to exchange it for the larger kit.
The separator bolts themselves are too small in diameter (imho) through the holes in the clamp and allow the clamp to flex inward/upward even with the vertical support puller bolts in place. There's just not enough heft in the assembly to apply the force needed for the separator cup to sneak under the bearing. Better hardware and some creative grinding on the cup may be a solution, but the larger version would probably be the optimum way to go..., at least for stubborn bearings on saw cranks. Nice little kit otherwise and should work fine for less demanding or smaller applications. Shoulda worked for this crank bearing in my opinion. Just didn't want to force it and break it. Went through Amazon and should be able to exchange it for the larger kit.
I think he may have been confusing the special screws used on the SP125 and 101 kart engines. The cap screws that hold the rod cap on are just 8-32 socket head cap screws (I think that is correct, I am in the other shop today) but in any case they only require a hex key - 9/64" for the 8-32.
I still have my Wright GS5020A but haven't run it in a while. I once raced it against a Mini Mac in a 6" poplar log, I realize it is unfair to run 115 cc's against 32 cc's but at least I was a close second.
Mark
I still have my Wright GS5020A but haven't run it in a while. I once raced it against a Mini Mac in a 6" poplar log, I realize it is unfair to run 115 cc's against 32 cc's but at least I was a close second.
Mark
Were you rocking and pulling to clear the kerf?
Oh, thanks for the other info too.
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So I went ahead with a Tillotson swap on the Super 250 until the parts for the flatback show up. I pulled an HL63D and the necessary adapter and linkages from a parts 1-52 I had here. I opened it up and it was remarkably clean inside but the metering lever was set way too high and I went ahead and put new diaphragms in it as a matter of coarse. Popoff pressure was right about 8psi after the rebuild with some slight bleed down but acceptable compared to the other Tillys I've done.
The thing will not draw fuel!!!! There is fuel in the line at the carb and it is getting fuel into the pump part but nothing in the metering chamber. How is the lever supposed to be set? It should be flush with the chamber floor correct? Or am I having a brain cramp and it should be level with the gasket surface?
Also, it does fire on prime andnwould start and run with the flatback, it had crap floating around in the carb making it erraric.
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The thing will not draw fuel!!!! There is fuel in the line at the carb and it is getting fuel into the pump part but nothing in the metering chamber. How is the lever supposed to be set? It should be flush with the chamber floor correct? Or am I having a brain cramp and it should be level with the gasket surface?
Also, it does fire on prime andnwould start and run with the flatback, it had crap floating around in the carb making it erraric.
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Mark
Yes I was, I learned after a trial or two that the blade does not move far enough to clear the chips from the cut so you have to make a sawing motion while you are sawing.
Mark
Mark
Ikeholt
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I've got a Super 250 that I like to use. I got tired of messing with the carb so I bought a Chinese version of the Stihl 090 carb for about 20 bucks. Best 20 bucks, I've spent. I did have to modify the linkage and add a bolt for the air cover. Runs like a new one, also using a Husky 55 coil on it.
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