McCulloch Chain Saws

[edju1958]

8200 uses a different throttle rod. Main difference between the DE80 throttle rod and the other 800 series is how it engages the trigger. Otherwise it's essentially the same arrangement and should not pose any more difficulty installing the carb than any other 10 series saw. Just twist the carb onto the linkage (already attached to the trigger and with the retaining strap on it) and into position. The idle screw isn't even in the way as it is with an 8200. Pop the choke rod into position and secure it with the retaining strap, secure the carb, hook up the fuel line and there ya go.



I tend to make certain that a shortblock passes a leak test (both pressure and vacuum) before assembling much else to it. No better time to do so. Saves having to tear the saw back apart if unexpected/erratic running issues are encountered that point to not checking for air leaks in the first place..., after you've spent time swapping ignition components, carbs, filters, fuel lines, posting here a few times, and ruling out everything else..., then doing a leak test just to discover a poorly installed new seal or not using enough sealant between the case and cylinder when you put it together to begin with.

I learned the hard way before investing in a MityVac years ago. Paid for itself the first time I used it and every time it's found a leak (or hasn't) since. Wouldn't be without one.

Thanks Poge! I never had the engine torn down on the DE80 to begin with & it has very low hrs.on it.It never even occurred to me to check for leaks due to it having low hrs.Virtually no dirt/oil under the old tank or on the engine anywhere.Pretty much new looking all around except for the handles & chain brake damage.You mentioned a choke rod retainer?I don't know if they used different style choke rod linkages on the DE80 saws,but either the choke rod linkage that was on the parts saw was broken,or it's different from the original one.As it is there's no way I'm gonna be able to hook up the throttle linkage while it's still hooked up to the trigger & then the choke linkage because I have to be able to twist the carb to put both linkages on.I believe I must disconnect the throttle linkage from the trigger in order for this operation to be successful.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

This is what you should be dealing with. I don't see the complications you seem to be encountering. Maybe the illustration will help you explain the situation better. Number 16 is the retaining strap that holds the choke rod in position by its connection to the throttle rod in the same manner as usual with any 10 series saw. Without it, the choke rod would simply fall out of its slot in the choke shaft of the carb..., at least according to the IPL at hand and what would happen with other 10 series saws. I admittedly don't have a DE80 sitting in front of me and am relying on the IPL for my comments and observations, though I am staring at a PM8200 to make comparisons.

​

 

[edju1958]

I've always referred to #16 (the retaining strap as you call it) as the snubber.If you'd have said snubber I would've known exactly what you were talking about.You say tomato,I say tomato,no big deal.I have a couple 10 series saws that don't have the snubber & the choke & throttle linkages stay in place just fine.
Anyhow,with that out of the way,the carb went in much easier than expected.First I already had the fuel line on,then the throttle linkage went on,then the choke linkage went on,then I secured the carb.I think the toughest part was getting the bolt holes lined up.Next on the list was to check the plug,it has an original Champion DJ6J in it & it still looked good,so I left it in the saw.I gave a shot of fuel before I put the plug in to see if it'd fire & it did.Next I put fuel in the tank & gave it a prime only because I was having trouble with the recoil not wanting to retrract.The saw fired again & kept running! There was a problem with the OPL,but that got resolved when my neighbor sdtopped by & I asked him to look at it as his eyes are much better than mine.I'll have to pull the fuel line back out & give it a couple wraps of teflon tape because it's leaking.Right now I've got a 24 in.bar on it & I need to get the chain brake on too.It's a runner! Pics tomorrow!

 

[edju1958]

I've been promising a couple guys that I'd post pics of tyhe 450 with the 32 in.bar & chain I got from Woodslasher.Here ya go guys.I even put a new sawdust screen in today too.

 

[edju1958]

Well here's the long-awaited pics of the somewhat troublesome DE80.This saw starts on one pull,runs like a dream,& oils like the devil.I just gotta wrap the fuel line to stop it from leaking into the air box,I'll be doing that right after I finish here..I only have a 24 in.bar on the saw,I have a 28 in.on the SP81,& a 32 in.on the 450,so I'm good for redwoods now,Lol.

 

[Woodslasher]

Looking good! Those bars look way better on your saws than they did on my shelf!

 

[vinnywv]

Glad you got it all figured out. Even has the extra bottom brace brace.

 

[heimannm]

Mark

 

[clint53]

Like myself and others that haven't had the pleasure to meet Mark, this is about as close as we can get without shaking his hand.
I have to say a big thank you to Mark for sharing your knowledge of Mac's with all of us here.

While there please give Jeff a "Like" and "Subscription". He is a great guy that I have gotten to know through You Tube.
He has a big passion for Mac's and learning more about them that he shares in his vids.
Thanks Jeff for sharing the time you had with Mark.

 

[edju1958]

Great video Mark! I could watch videos like that all day,but then I'd get no saw work done,Lol.

 

[edju1958]

View attachment 911694

View attachment 911695

Mark

Now that saw looks familiar,Lol.

 

[edju1958]

I think putting the SP125 back together just got on my to do list.I took it apart almost 2 yrs.ago to Red Kote the fuel tank & just never got around to putting it back together.Shortly after I had it apart I had 2 back surgeries,so that delayed it for a while.I did try putting it back together right after the 1st back surgery,but I had trouble lifting the saw & maneuvering it,plus it was only about 50 outside & the impulse line was a bit stiff.Mine & my son's birthday today,we have a party to go to,so no saw work,but next week I'm pretty much wide open.

 

[Syncop8r]

What's the difference(s) between a 2-10 and a RH start 10-10?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Happy Birthday Ed!!!

 

[Marvin Booysen]

Happy birthday Ed!

What's the difference(s) between a 2-10 and a RH start 10-10?

I haven’t had either model, but believe the 2-10 has the DSP, also a black fuel tank top/air box lid

 

[edju1958]

Some of the early 2-10s had the bullfrog carb in them.I don't believe any of the 10-10s ever had a bullfrog carb.

 

[2broke2ride]

Like myself and others that haven't had the pleasure to meet Mark, this is about as close as we can get without shaking his hand.
I have to say a big thank you to Mark for sharing your knowledge of Mac's with all of us here.

While there please give Jeff a "Like" and "Subscription". He is a great guy that I have gotten to know through You Tube.
He has a big passion for Mac's and learning more about them that he shares in his vids.
Thanks Jeff for sharing the time you had with Mark.

I just watched this and Mark unexpectedly dropped my name lol.
Thanks for the help with the rings @heimannm

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I had to remove the tank from the SP81 I built this winter to replace the welch plug cap I used in the oiler with the correct fiber disc , because the cap was not working.
Since sealing the tank with red kote I have developed 3 tiny pin hole spots where the fuel has caused the paint to bubble out, the tank isnt leaking as much as it is weeping. Since we all have heard the horrors of spliting these tanks ,is it possible for me to recoat the tank? I did pick up a bottle of acetone for thinning or cleaning it up.
Any experience or suggestions welcome.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I'd try another coat just in that area. I'd also stay away from any solvents or cleaners that may tend to interfere with a good bond to the existing application. I would clean the tank with soap and water only..., probably a couple times with a lot of rinsing after the final cleaning. Air dry for as long as it takes before the application and allow plenty of cure time.

I have no personal experience doing this, but it's how I would approach it if faced with your situation. I'd save any acetone to clean the weeping spots on the outside and then punt to a thin layer of MotoSeal externally if the second internal Red-Kote treatment doesn't work.

 

[heimannm]

After soap and water I normally give it a rinse with acetone then allow it to dry completely before the Red Kote. The trick with Red Kote is not too thick and allow it to cure before adding fuel.

My experience with separating the tank is that while it is possible, it will require destroying all of the screws, drilling out the broken screws, and retapping all the holes.

Mark