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McCulloch Chain Saws

a. palmer jr.

a. palmer jr.

Tree Freak
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Apr 8, 2007
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Southern Indiana
That's sort of what I tried. I wrapped a piece of wire around the loop and jammed the other end in a threaded hole on the jug. tried it with and without that wire. Nothing...
Since you said it's an electronic ignition it might be hard to check it with a multimeter unless you've tested one before. With a coil it's just a straight ohms check but the electronic has other components in there, so about the only choice you have now is to try another unit. I assume your magnet's all right in your flywheel.
 

gmax

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Super Pro 81

I picked up a mac Super Pro 81 yesterday, It's a good runner almost complete just missing the chain brake & bucking spike, if I find those parts I might give it a paint job.



 
heimannm

heimannm

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For anyone with too much money (doesn't describe me at the moment), I know where a NIB Pro Mac 850 can be found for $500.

If anyone in seriously interested let me know and we can try to work out the details.

Mark
 
NIP Group
lawnmowertech37
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Your mini-mac starters: The steel cup spins in the plastic spool?

I drilled 2 holes thru both the plastic and steel, and pinned the pieces together with bailing wire... Works great!

J
jason you mind sending me instructions on how to do this method and i will pass it along to other people when they ask me if i have a pulley

those pulleys are hard to come by
 
lawnmowertech37
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i have an old saw maccullch 450

the carburator parts are bad

i need some parts

the number on the carb is 61853A

is this original ?

is there another carb that will fix

where can i find car repair kits ?

paul from belgium






thanks
hey paul i would edit your email link unless you like getting trash emails those spam robots are smart when it comes to email links

use the word at instead of the @ symbol it protects your email box from spam that way

is the kit you need a oem mac carb itself ?
 
JasonBmac

JasonBmac

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Mini-Mac Starter Cup Repair

Well, there wasn't too much to it... If you remove the starter, you'll see a notched steel cup that is retained in a plastic cup, itself a molded extension of the rewind pulley.

I didn't disassemble anything.... Had just finished re-winding the recoil spring on a Homelite pump and didn't care to torture my finger tips any more.

I put a block of wood on my drillpress table to allow me to hold the starter cup sides horizontal. I used a 1/8" drill bit, and drilled 2 holes that went thru both the plastic and steel cups. Needs to be a sharp drill bit, or it'll wander when it hits the steel, tearing up the plastic cup. A drop of oil keeps things cool. Need to be right "on top" of the side of the cup to avoid skidding...

Once you've got 2 holes drilled, just take some iron stove wire (what I used, any steel/iron wire should work, or a pair of small pop rivets), and run out one hole and back in the other. Do the twist inside the cup, pushed in far enough to clear the flywheel nut....

Not much to it. Definately a weak point on this little saw.

I've got 20 tanks or so thru her since this, and it's holding up just fine.

J
 
lawnmowertech37
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Messages
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Well, there wasn't too much to it... If you remove the starter, you'll see a notched steel cup that is retained in a plastic cup, itself a molded extension of the rewind pulley.

I didn't disassemble anything.... Had just finished re-winding the recoil spring on a Homelite pump and didn't care to torture my finger tips any more.

I put a block of wood on my drillpress table to allow me to hold the starter cup sides horizontal. I used a 1/8" drill bit, and drilled 2 holes that went thru both the plastic and steel cups. Needs to be a sharp drill bit, or it'll wander when it hits the steel, tearing up the plastic cup. A drop of oil keeps things cool. Need to be right "on top" of the side of the cup to avoid skidding...

Once you've got 2 holes drilled, just take some iron stove wire (what I used, any steel/iron wire should work, or a pair of small pop rivets), and run out one hole and back in the other. Do the twist inside the cup, pushed in far enough to clear the flywheel nut....

Not much to it. Definately a weak point on this little saw.

I've got 20 tanks or so thru her since this, and it's holding up just fine.

J
what model homelite pump you have ?
 
JasonBmac

JasonBmac

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Just a little AP125 I picked up dead from a flea market...

Previous owner was an Acadian lobserman, and used it to de-water his boat before headin' out each day (faster than the bilge pump).... A few years of salt water had its way with the recoil, and he couldn't get the screws out to fix it...

I guess I was more tenacious. Little thing, cheap and simple tho it is, really moves water now.... Tested it in my rain barrels, and managed a bit over 100L/min, damned near spec.

J
 
lawnmowertech37
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Messages
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Location
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Just a little AP125 I picked up dead from a flea market...

Previous owner was an Acadian lobserman, and used it to de-water his boat before headin' out each day (faster than the bilge pump).... A few years of salt water had its way with the recoil, and he couldn't get the screws out to fix it...

I guess I was more tenacious. Little thing, cheap and simple tho it is, really moves water now.... Tested it in my rain barrels, and managed a bit over 100L/min, damned near spec.

J
good to know the model # that is
 
a. palmer jr.

a. palmer jr.

Tree Freak
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
13,644
Location
Southern Indiana
Well, there wasn't too much to it... If you remove the starter, you'll see a notched steel cup that is retained in a plastic cup, itself a molded extension of the rewind pulley.

I didn't disassemble anything.... Had just finished re-winding the recoil spring on a Homelite pump and didn't care to torture my finger tips any more.

I put a block of wood on my drillpress table to allow me to hold the starter cup sides horizontal. I used a 1/8" drill bit, and drilled 2 holes that went thru both the plastic and steel cups. Needs to be a sharp drill bit, or it'll wander when it hits the steel, tearing up the plastic cup. A drop of oil keeps things cool. Need to be right "on top" of the side of the cup to avoid skidding...

Once you've got 2 holes drilled, just take some iron stove wire (what I used, any steel/iron wire should work, or a pair of small pop rivets), and run out one hole and back in the other. Do the twist inside the cup, pushed in far enough to clear the flywheel nut....

Not much to it. Definately a weak point on this little saw.

I've got 20 tanks or so thru her since this, and it's holding up just fine.

J
I think I like the later version of this saw, without the metal prongs. They are the ones with electronic ignition. No mods necessary on these.
 
JasonBmac

JasonBmac

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Lawnmowertech, my Homelite pump is this one:
http://www.riversidepumpmfg.com/Downloads/HL_PS04122.pdf

I've not seen a mini-mac without points yet... Mine is a 1976 model MM25, definately a points ignition. Has a chain brake with a magnesium handle, instead of the later plastic. Fun little saw to run, gotta remind yourself often that one should keep both hands on it, though... Light and well balanced.

J
 
lawnmowertech37
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Lawnmowertech, my Homelite pump is this one:
http://www.riversidepumpmfg.com/Downloads/HL_PS04122.pdf

I've not seen a mini-mac without points yet... Mine is a 1976 model MM25, definately a points ignition. Has a chain brake with a magnesium handle, instead of the later plastic. Fun little saw to run, gotta remind yourself often that one should keep both hands on it, though... Light and well balanced.

J
if you did a google search for Homelite pump parts you would stumble on my store site Results 1 - 10 of about 30,900 for homelite pump parts. (0.27 seconds) i am in 2nd place first is the manufacture then it goes to my site


actually they do have pointless mini macs they were made further down the years also if you did a search for mcculloch parts or mcculloch chainsaw parts let me know who shows first
 
Last edited:
a. palmer jr.

a. palmer jr.

Tree Freak
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
13,644
Location
Southern Indiana
Lawnmowertech, my Homelite pump is this one:
http://www.riversidepumpmfg.com/Downloads/HL_PS04122.pdf

I've not seen a mini-mac without points yet... Mine is a 1976 model MM25, definately a points ignition. Has a chain brake with a magnesium handle, instead of the later plastic. Fun little saw to run, gotta remind yourself often that one should keep both hands on it, though... Light and well balanced.

J
We may be speaking of two different things: When I say "newer version" I'm speaking of a model 110 Mac, which I have sitting in front of me and definitely does not have points, but everything in the saw engine is basically the same as the old Mini Mac 30, which I also have in front of me. The one that is a different animal is the Mini Mac 6, which does not have the removable starter cover but it is cast into the engine cover. The 6 is a little more difficult to work on because the starter has to be cleared to remove the engine from the housing. I'm not sure if my Mini Mac 30 is points or not...I've had it apart before but I don't remember, but I'm positive the 110 is electronic.
 
JasonBmac

JasonBmac

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Googling "mcculloch chainsaw parts", your shop is 3rd on Page 2 for me...

You were second for "Homelite pump parts"

I was able to source the only parts I needed (recoil spring and carb kit) locally... Much to my surprise.

ArboristSite was pretty much unknown to me until about 2 months ago...

I don't doubt for a second that they made EI mini-macs... Most manufacturers switched over in the '80's from what I can see. EI's nice, but there's something just Right about a well-set-up points ignition... They FEEL different somehow.

On my Mini-Mac, I've been surprised by how rich it wants the Hi set to keep from bogging in the cut. Well into the 4 cycle range, and well down from peak RPM's at no-load, but I can't argue with the way the wood moves out of the way of that 29cc's of raw fury.... Been running this thing for a couple months now, and it's been quite reliable. Won't clear chips well when noodling, though, LOL. Use my XL2 for that instead.

J
 
a. palmer jr.

a. palmer jr.

Tree Freak
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
13,644
Location
Southern Indiana
Googling "mcculloch chainsaw parts", your shop is 3rd on Page 2 for me...

You were second for "Homelite pump parts"

I was able to source the only parts I needed (recoil spring and carb kit) locally... Much to my surprise.

ArboristSite was pretty much unknown to me until about 2 months ago...

I don't doubt for a second that they made EI mini-macs... Most manufacturers switched over in the '80's from what I can see. EI's nice, but there's something just Right about a well-set-up points ignition... They FEEL different somehow.

On my Mini-Mac, I've been surprised by how rich it wants the Hi set to keep from bogging in the cut. Well into the 4 cycle range, and well down from peak RPM's at no-load, but I can't argue with the way the wood moves out of the way of that 29cc's of raw fury.... Been running this thing for a couple months now, and it's been quite reliable. Won't clear chips well when noodling, though, LOL. Use my XL2 for that instead.

J
I think I read in a parts catalog (online) that the electronic ignition Minis don't use the same starter that the points one uses. The newer ones use basically the same starter that Homelite used in their Super 2. They're not interchangeable by any means but look similar. The drum is all plastic without the cup and the four prongs sticking out. In my opinion the newer version is a little more user-friendly, but then again, ask my wife what she thinks of my opinions!!
 
JasonBmac

JasonBmac

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Yeah, the steel cup/2 prawl mini-mac starter is one of the worst I've seen. Very prone to failure.... Works well if the pieces stay together, though.

With the cups failed, it was weird....

I found the thing under a table at the flea market... And did my usual check-over on it... Pulled slowly on the starter, and felt great smooth compression, sniffed the tank and smelled rotten fuel... The seller said "pull faster", and so I did... No compression this time, just a smooth resistive pull.... The cup had spun.

Didn't seem like a deal breaker, so I offered him $10 and left happy.

1 carb kit and a bit of sweat equity, and she goes, and will for another 30 years.

J
 
a. palmer jr.

a. palmer jr.

Tree Freak
Joined
Apr 8, 2007
Messages
13,644
Location
Southern Indiana
Yeah, the steel cup/2 prawl mini-mac starter is one of the worst I've seen. Very prone to failure.... Works well if the pieces stay together, though.

With the cups failed, it was weird....

I found the thing under a table at the flea market... And did my usual check-over on it... Pulled slowly on the starter, and felt great smooth compression, sniffed the tank and smelled rotten fuel... The seller said "pull faster", and so I did... No compression this time, just a smooth resistive pull.... The cup had spun.

Didn't seem like a deal breaker, so I offered him $10 and left happy.

1 carb kit and a bit of sweat equity, and she goes, and will for another 30 years.

J
The wire thing sounds interesting..I may try it if I get another Mini-Mac. I think my Mac right now is a later version so I doubt it has the metal prongs.
 
stinkbait

stinkbait

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I need the front wrap handle for a mac 650 gear drive. Mine is broken. I just discovered that it is not the same as a typical wrap handle on the 200 series saws. It's a little wider to clear the extra width of the gearcase and bigger clutch cover.
 
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