McCulloch Chain Saws

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Rescued another one from the flea market! Looks like a lightly used 10-10 , was missing the brake flag and a screw in the bottom of the foot pad/ handle. Has a decent bar and chain and a spur sprocket, which I usually don't see. So for 50$ its a running and cutting saw.
Now if anyone has a oiler button? I have stuff to trade and $$$s, P.O. told me he had it riding around in the back of his pickup truck.

I got a spare if you really get stuck.
Nice saw:)

These are certainly interesting questions. According to the 6-10 documentation I posted earlier, the connecting rods are interchangeable on the crankshaft listed, and presumably on any crank that would use either one. A later 7-10 crank assembly with either rod and piston configuration should interchange.

Swapping connecting rods in order to use the full skirt piston would evidently reduce squish by 0.010 according to Mark's calculations and would need to be taken into consideration, but probably only marginally. I've never measured squish on a Mac. The different rod lengths should be offset by the different pin diameters (and locations) to effectively provide the same piston stroke.

Another possibility is that the cylinder was simply changed and that's been the problem. That's really the main unknown factor now. This theory would only be applicable if a full skirt piston is actually required for the three finger transfer cylinders as has been my theory..., misguided as it seems to have been. It has finally become quite clear to me that the piston originally called for in a 10 prefix 600052 7-10A is indeed a windowed design after all. The correct piston for the IPL of this saw is on the way. No way to really know if the cylinder is correct (or original).

The only other thing left is whether a windowed piston should work just fine on all 3 varieties of transfer types now known to be used on the 70cc saws. Indications are that it should, but I've not seen definitive evidence that is the case. It certainly would not apply to the earlier 70cc saws with small pins. I'm unaware of any windowed 2" pistons with small pin bosses..., only full skirt versions..., which are typically what is found in the three finger transfer cylinders.

It still never ran right with that piston though did it?

It certainly could be the wrong cylinder can the tank handle work with lever dsp and pop up? I've never laid a hand on a lever saw.



That thing sounding good man you'll be hanging to get it out properly and that 5200 to compare to it
 
So far its going great. 7-10 cylinder and piston. Sp81 oil tank. Sp 81 oil pump and manual oiler. Sp front and rear av. Sp60 rear shroud (modified for pop up decomp. Valve), the lower brace is from a sp70 60 or 80 im not sure exactly, its yellow. The oil tank front cover came from a 10-10. The ignition was from a 10-10. The exhaust is from a 2-10. The leaky fuel tank is from a sp81. The carb is gonna be a zama c2. Starter is a 10 series. Clutch cover im not sure yet, it will be either a short brake style or short no brake style. Ill see when i get that far. Next week one day.

Forgot to mention i also drilled and installed an impulse nipple. Pretty easy to do. Jb weld is holding it.

That's looking like a brand new saw so far
 
I got a spare if you really get stuck.
Nice saw:)



It still never ran right with that piston though did it?

It certainly could be the wrong cylinder can the tank handle work with lever dsp and pop up? I've never laid a hand on a lever saw.



That thing sounding good man you'll be hanging to get it out properly and that 5200 to compare to it
Thank you I appreciate it.
 
Well the 5-10 is starting to look like something again. Need to rebuild the carb and we should be in business. Hopefully tomorrow. This thing has wicked compression with the new rings. I'm sure the oil I put on them is upping that some too.
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Yep. Spring is coming soon and as the snow melts in the high country there’s plenty of downed trees to deal with. :)

Good times ahead then :)

Thanks, it wont when im done. The body parts dont look near as good as whays gonna be under the hood. But it could be painted to look better. It will be a rat rod sp71..ha

I like that too the rat rod. Need to build a muffler cover like Kevin's and I like how its bits of a few saws. I love these 10s for that so many parts fit or can fiddle to fit. You can always build some kind of running saw from a box of a few.
 
Good times ahead then :)



I like that too the rat rod. Need to build a muffler cover like Kevin's and I like how its bits of a few saws. I love these 10s for that so many parts fit or can fiddle to fit. You can always build some kind of running saw from a box of a few.

Thats kinda of my fear of needing a oiler button, I know a guy with a lawn and garden scrap yard a few towns away and I'll go and buy a parts saw off him and the damn thing will run!,because it's a McCulloch!
 
Well the 5-10 is starting to look like something again. Need to rebuild the carb and we should be in business. Hopefully tomorrow. This thing has wicked compression with the new rings. I'm sure the oil I put on them is upping that some too.
9cd9d68dc983c4201dc32a90625231a3.jpg


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Your carb adapter looks good , I've heard that the box carb is alittle tall ( with an adapter)for the air filter cover but if you made a spacer for the air cleaner and cover stud longer it seal up well.
 
Your carb adapter looks good , I've heard that the box carb is alittle tall ( with an adapter)for the air filter cover but if you made a spacer for the air cleaner and cover stud longer it seal up well.

Some of the beveled style top tanks are taller to accommodate the sdc. I've got the low style type and yeah it's very tight. I have to remove the choke to fit. Not sure if I'm going to hand choke it or build a sliding choke.

Have got a spare 70cc block I could put under it too for a super lightweight 70cc haven't made my mind up on what to do with it

Well the 5-10 is starting to look like something again. Need to rebuild the carb and we should be in business. Hopefully tomorrow. This thing has wicked compression with the new rings. I'm sure the oil I put on them is upping that some too.
9cd9d68dc983c4201dc32a90625231a3.jpg


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Kevin that 5-10 will be a really cool saw to run and I bet it will become a number 1 runner for next firewood season
 
Your carb adapter looks good , I've heard that the box carb is alittle tall ( with an adapter)for the air filter cover but if you made a spacer for the air cleaner and cover stud longer it seal up well.
The carb adapter came on the saw and appears to be factory. No problem fitting the SDC under the hood either. I think the 5-10 has a taller hood than the 1-10 and 2-10.

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Does anyone have a couple of rebuildable fuel caps they want to part with? I have 2 saws with the non rebuildable cap I including this one and they all need attention.
Also, has anyone used a little super glue to hold the brass insert in? I have one on one of my 10-10s that the insert wont stay in.

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Update on the MAC 35. Got the parts to rebuild the carb, cleaned it and installed it. Had to prim it to get it started. I am pretty sure that it has a air leak. It revs and stays reved high. When I work the throttle I can hear the engine change pitch. and it will sometines calm down to somewhat of an idle. The engine is very erratic. I am thinking that the crank seals are bad. Anyone know if there is a modern replacement fot this saw? Maybe someone has converted this seal into like a SKS part number.

Their was no MAC report this week from Ron. He and I showed up at the wood lot and there was nothing for us to do. So Ron went home and done chores that he had been working on for a long time, also performed some chain maintenance and I went to a project I have been working on for a couple days. Getting a jump on next years wood demand for my home and shop. Cut and split a pickup load of white oak We was splitting the trunk of this white oak. This required noodling the pieces to 2, 3 and 4 pieces to get them small enough that we and my splitter could handle them. I had been using the PM805 for this task, but today I was using an off brand saw. My son used the PM10-10S to buck some smaller stuff. Most of the day was just splitting and noodling, most of it was a knotted up mess, but my splitter was surprisingly up for the task. It cut threw several nasty knots.

Hopefully next week Ron will have a juicy tale of our adventures, or miss adventures as sometimes happens of MAC nuz's and Blind Squirrel Felling.


Brian
 
Pretty quiet in here this weekend......

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Sometimes I question my motives messing with these old Macs.

The 5-10 is not cooperating. I think I either have an air leak or high speed check in the carb is messed up. It will run and idle ok and has plenty of power in the cut but it starts hard, needs choke or part choke even when warmed up, and has an intermittent poor transition from idle to WOT. And it stalls sometimes when coming down to idle. Sometimes it seems super rich, sometimes lean. It is all over the place.
When I first got it going the tank loosened up on me twice, but I removed the screws one at a time and loctited them and that seems to be cured but it may have messed up a gasket so I guess it's coming back apart[emoji35]
I might try a known good carb first, I am.also gonna pressure test the fuel line. It is aftermarket and of questionable quality.

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Sometimes I question my motives messing with these old Macs.

The 5-10 is not cooperating. I think I either have an air leak or high speed check in the carb is messed up. It will run and idle ok and has plenty of power in the cut but it starts hard, needs choke or part choke even when warmed up, and has an intermittent poor transition from idle to WOT. And it stalls sometimes when coming down to idle. Sometimes it seems super rich, sometimes lean. It is all over the place.
When I first got it going the tank loosened up on me twice, but I removed the screws one at a time and loctited them and that seems to be cured but it may have messed up a gasket so I guess it's coming back apart[emoji35]
I might try a known good carb first, I am.also gonna pressure test the fuel line. It is aftermarket and of questionable quality.

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It doesn't sound like the check valve problems I've had except for the idling well part , but if its bunched up in there it could be lean then fat. Those stacked gaskets and spacers can get all meesed up if 1 screw works all the way out.
If you haven't had the carburetor apart it'll have too many unknown qualities.
 
Does anyone have a couple of rebuildable fuel caps they want to part with? I have 2 saws with the non rebuildable cap I including this one and they all need attention.
Also, has anyone used a little super glue to hold the brass insert in? I have one on one of my 10-10s that the insert wont stay in.

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I'd used jb weld for the brass insert, and I've broken all my spare caps , hell I've got a homelite cap on my pro 60.
 
It doesn't sound like the check valve problems I've had except for the idling well part , but if its bunched up in there it could be lean then fat. Those stacked gaskets and spacers can get all meesed up if 1 screw works all the way out.
If you haven't had the carburetor apart it'll have too many unknown qualities.
Carb was rebuilt including a new kit and a run in the USC. Where should the metering lever be set in an SDC?

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Carb was rebuilt including a new kit and a run in the USC. Where should the metering lever be set in an SDC?

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The slot where the diaphragm tab hooks in should be level with the aluminum body on directly either side of it , not the gasket surface ,it's better to be lower than higher.
 

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