McCulloch Chain Saws

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I have a PM700 that's giving me some problems.The oiler is pumping out oil like there's no tomorrow.I checked the screw in front of the tank cover & it was tight.The oil is coming out at the pad,but not normally,it's gushing out.
The other problem that came up is it'll run fine when I start it up cold & it'll run fine till it runs out of fuel.After refueling it acts like there's water in the fuel & there isn't.It has almost no power & very difficult to throttle up.If it were a reed saw I'd suspect reeds,but it's piston ported.I bought this saw about a yr.ago & never really used it till today.
Ed
I don't know much about the oilers as far diagnosis, but maybe the two problems are related like compression pushing oil out and when hot shut down leaking back into the cylinder? I don't know?
Mark knows them pretty well and I've read his posts about them but ive only had problems with 1 oiler .
 
It sounds like you need a pro mac 60 for the in between stuff , nice and light but pulls a 24" just fine.
Your cutting skills are great.... but that flat shovel technique needs alittle work.

Before I met Brian I had an NOS PM60 cylinder. I don’t remember who on AS ended up with it.

Odd picture; I was scratching out the ramp rail.

Ron
 
I don't know much about the oilers as far diagnosis, but maybe the two problems are related like compression pushing oil out and when hot shut down leaking back into the cylinder? I don't know?
Mark knows them pretty well and I've read his posts about them but ive only had problems with 1 oiler .
If the oil was leaking back into the cylinder I'd have a huge cloud of smoke upon restarting - I don't
 
Looks more like my 380. 550 had a more squared off air filter cover .

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
Before I met Brian I had an NOS PM60 cylinder. I don’t remember who on AS ended up with it.

Odd picture; I was scratching out the ramp rail.

Ron
Ron, We have not cut together in a while so I kept trying to get a picture of you while you was at the lot in action and every time I would snap a picture of you, you would at that second turn away, or look down , or your would be over your face, something every time. That was the best picture I got. Not counting the 3 or 4 that my finger or glove got in the way. I have never professed to be a photographer at all. Never any good at it.

Brian
 
PM60 is good but it seams like the PM800 will do it all, I do like my 10-10S really well.
Brian

Put an S in a old lightweight chassis.
Screenshot_20200315-185606_Gallery.jpg
Cracking saw I swear it's 4lbs lighter than a pm10-10. Feels like it anyway. It's got a wonderful sound to it too brap braaap braaaaaap pop pop pop whaaaaaaa pop pop whaaaaaaaaaa.
Lol ok enough
 
My brother was at one of the local antique shops this morning and sent me these pics. It came from whistling jacks lodge up on chinook pass when it closed recently. Looks like they want $250. I’m tempted but have nowhere to put it lol! Anyways enjoy a piece of PNW history
View attachment 806588View attachment 806589View attachment 806590View attachment 806591

For only $250 I'd find a place for it! Clean & scrub it til its spotless,park it on coffee table in living room.Though I doubt the wife or girlfriend would go for that haha. That 7' bar with stinger is worth that much itself IMO. Cant read the ID tag very well but it looks like either a 5-49 or 7-55.Its different than my Model 99 for sure.

DSC01477.JPG
 
Oh my goodness is that funny!!! I still cannot get past the insanity of it all, hoarding toilet paper? You might as well go to an atm cause its easier to get cash than TP.

Church is live-streaming instead of meeting so I had extra time today and went to the grocery store. TP pretty much gone, I can handle that. All the potatoes, except the red ones, gone. Now that's a problem.

Ron
 
Ok,

In the interest of the 70 cc ten series cause I stripped my latest Pro Mac 700 acquisition and port timed it.

This saw looks to have never been tampered with, its a 600061B, carb dated 1-79. Thin ring, divided transfer, unbridged exhaust, and in good shape. I will picture it once I run it through my works washing plant next week. Its a right manky thing, despite already been cleaned as best you can intact.

Exhaust opens 100' ATDC - 160' duration.

Transfer opens 117' ATDC giving 17' blow down.

Intake opens 61' BTDC - 122' duration.

As I mentioned earlier, the exhaust / transfer timings are similar to more modern designs. The intake duration is short compared to modern designs. This likely explains the high torque / low rpm characteristic of the 700.

Lets see if we can find some more data - afraid I don't have a 7-10. Mean time I will give some thought about modification. The short intake is an issue. I suspect the exhaust, whist not short on noise, is short on optimal performance. I am prepared to loose some torque at low RPM to pick up some more RPM BHP on this saw. I don't want to turn it to a peaky boggy saw, or end up with excessive reversal on intake - spit back - by over doing intake duration.

Roland.
More 70 CC data.

I forgot about a Super pro 70 parts saw I have. Its a chrome cylinder, non decomp, thick ring, unbridged transfer and exhaust, points type engine. Been messed with, tag missing. Tillotson carb - no date reference. Has a roller fairlead starter, presumably part of a non decomp spec.

Exhaust opens 105' ATDC giving 150' duration.

Transfer opens 122' ATDC giving 17' blow down.

Intake opens 60, BTDC giving 120' Duration.

So compared to the PM 700 the intake timing is similar - within production and measurement variables. The exhaust and transfer ports maintain the same relationship of 17' of blow down - but both set 5' lower down the cylinder. What effect does this have? Have not run this super pro 70.

If I am right, this is earlier than my PM700 by several years? The super pro 70 is part of the anti vibration rubber mount range.

I have also found data for a Pro Mac 555 I took some years back, but I am suspicious of an error in transfer opening - so will refrain from mudding the water with it for now.

Roland.
 
More 70 CC data.

I forgot about a Super pro 70 parts saw I have. Its a chrome cylinder, non decomp, thick ring, unbridged transfer and exhaust, points type engine. Been messed with, tag missing. Tillotson carb - no date reference. Has a roller fairlead starter, presumably part of a non decomp spec.

Exhaust opens 105' ATDC giving 150' duration.

Transfer opens 122' ATDC giving 17' blow down.

Intake opens 60, BTDC giving 120' Duration.

So compared to the PM 700 the intake timing is similar - within production and measurement variables. The exhaust and transfer ports maintain the same relationship of 17' of blow down - but both set 5' lower down the cylinder. What effect does this have? Have not run this super pro 70.

If I am right, this is earlier than my PM700 by several years? The super pro 70 is part of the anti vibration rubber mount range.

I have also found data for a Pro Mac 555 I took some years back, but I am suspicious of an error in transfer opening - so will refrain from mudding the water with it for now.

Roland.

Very interesting to learn of a chrome non decomp cylinder.

So you just showed something pretty cool. The transfer is not the only difference. That could mean the bridged transfer 7-10s may still be different to the 700.

My 700 is down on psi so is behind my 7-10s anyway and my open port 7-10 is very tired but I guess if got off my date I could print out that degree wheel Mark posted and get some numbers. I'd have to study up and learn how to do it though.

Would be good to learn about the 555 too
 
Very interesting to learn of a chrome non decomp cylinder.

So you just showed something pretty cool. The transfer is not the only difference. That could mean the bridged transfer 7-10s may still be different to the 700.

My 700 is down on psi so is behind my 7-10s anyway and my open port 7-10 is very tired but I guess if got off my date I could print out that degree wheel Mark posted and get some numbers. I'd have to study up and learn how to do it though.

Would be good to learn about the 555 too
Hi,

The 7-10 is reputed to have the edge over the 700 and is the one I want to have timed. There is a Sticky on the process of port timing.

I suspect Chrome cylinder engines generally have better ports in terms of area, ie more open designs.

The 54 - 57 CC engines are going to be another whole world of timing info. Happy to tell what I know and done on the PM 555 but I will check my info before.

Roland.
 
Yeah the thing about the 7-10s is there now appears to be two different cylinders well 3 actually if you count the cast bore. The two chromed cylinders have an open and a bridged transfer. Would be nice too know if the bridged is really the apparent slower 700 cylinder or weather the bridged 7-10 still has some other differences.

My open port 7-10 has alot of missing chrome and is done really but still runs great. The 700 has a good score and is not what it should be so I have no real performance comparisons. The two good 7-10s are both bridged and pull very hard I might add.

The 10-10S engine I have is apparently the same as the 555 the (pm55 is points)

That 57cc is in a completely different league to the 54 and is definitely alot more than 3cc would suggest it's a screaming little saw the 54 seams to just fall off in high rpm and seems to sound thin and lean and does not have the grunt at all if tuned like that. The 57 just loves the rpm yet still has a mean bottom end too. Its really not very far away from my good 7-10s.

I can't praise it enough.

A couple weekends ago I had a good race session with my mate and his ms311 and that S is right with it every time. In smaller 10 inch wood his has a little edge in 16 to 20 the 57 is every bit as fast and he has to be gentle on the stihl it's right on the edge of bogging but the 57 can lean all ya like and nup no slowing it up at all.
In real world cutting when his chain is going away that's it put it down and sharpen but the Mac will pull that chain happily till the tank is done.

We all know that's not what you should do but when there's 6 cuts left of the log and you still got oil just give her some extra pumps and get it done.

I have a spare 54cc block with a groove in it and I'm wondering about boring it to the 57cc piston and attacking it with a dremel to copy the S as best as possible. Be nice to know the bore measurement of the pm60 perhaps there is enough meat to go that far I suspect not though.

I've also read a few times the 57 is a bit more sporty compared to the 60 perhaps the 60 is ported more like a 54.

Anyway bla bla alot of out loud thinking going on :)
 
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