McCulloch Chain Saws

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Yeah the thing about the 7-10s is there now appears to be two different cylinders well 3 actually if you count the cast bore. The two chromed cylinders have an open and a bridged transfer. Would be nice too know if the bridged is really the apparent slower 700 cylinder or weather the bridged 7-10 still has some other differences.

My open port 7-10 has alot of missing chrome and is done really but still runs great. The 700 has a good score and is not what it should be so I have no real performance comparisons. The two good 7-10s are both bridged and pull very hard I might add.

The 10-10S engine I have is apparently the same as the 555 the (pm55 is points)

That 57cc is in a completely different league to the 54 and is definitely alot more than 3cc would suggest it's a screaming little saw the 54 seams to just fall off in high rpm and seems to sound thin and lean and does not have the grunt at all if tuned like that. The 57 just loves the rpm yet still has a mean bottom end too. Its really not very far away from my good 7-10s.

I can't praise it enough.

A couple weekends ago I had a good race session with my mate and his ms311 and that S is right with it every time. In smaller 10 inch wood his has a little edge in 16 to 20 the 57 is every bit as fast and he has to be gentle on the stihl it's right on the edge of bogging but the 57 can lean all ya like and nup no slowing it up at all.
In real world cutting when his chain is going away that's it put it down and sharpen but the Mac will pull that chain happily till the tank is done.

We all know that's not what you should do but when there's 6 cuts left of the log and you still got oil just give her some extra pumps and get it done.

I have a spare 54cc block with a groove in it and I'm wondering about boring it to the 57cc piston and attacking it with a dremel to copy the S as best as possible. Be nice to know the bore measurement of the pm60 perhaps there is enough meat to go that far I suspect not though.

I've also read a few times the 57 is a bit more sporty compared to the 60 perhaps the 60 is ported more like a 54.

Anyway bla bla alot of out loud thinking going on :)
Boring a cast cylinder can be done easily chucked up on a standard centre lathe, or even a Bridgeport style turret mill, though honing to provide the oil bearing surface is ideally applied with tooling for blind cylinders.

On the Danarm 55 and it seems early McCulloch 10 series saws used a cast in liner using the Alfin technique. Looking at these cast iron saws, the intake and exhuast porting is applied by drilling, or milling and the port profiles are as such less than optimal. The transfers are cast in. My experience is that these iron engine 10 series, and certainly Danarm 55's offer only modest performance compared to the later chrome cylinder models.

The McCulloch chrome cylinders are manufactured on complex die casting tooling, and the port profiles follow a more developed shape, more accurately produced. So on what you say, two versions of chrome 7-10 are known to exist. The question has to be, what if anything is different to the PM 700 or the Super Pro 70, we now know timings.

Roland.
 
Pu
Yeah the thing about the 7-10s is there now appears to be two different cylinders well 3 actually if you count the cast bore. The two chromed cylinders have an open and a bridged transfer. Would be nice too know if the bridged is really the apparent slower 700 cylinder or weather the bridged 7-10 still has some other differences.

My open port 7-10 has alot of missing chrome and is done really but still runs great. The 700 has a good score and is not what it should be so I have no real performance comparisons. The two good 7-10s are both bridged and pull very hard I might add.

The 10-10S engine I have is apparently the same as the 555 the (pm55 is points)

That 57cc is in a completely different league to the 54 and is definitely alot more than 3cc would suggest it's a screaming little saw the 54 seams to just fall off in high rpm and seems to sound thin and lean and does not have the grunt at all if tuned like that. The 57 just loves the rpm yet still has a mean bottom end too. Its really not very far away from my good 7-10s.

I can't praise it enough.

A couple weekends ago I had a good race session with my mate and his ms311 and that S is right with it every time. In smaller 10 inch wood his has a little edge in 16 to 20 the 57 is every bit as fast and he has to be gentle on the stihl it's right on the edge of bogging but the 57 can lean all ya like and nup no slowing it up at all.
In real world cutting when his chain is going away that's it put it down and sharpen but the Mac will pull that chain happily till the tank is done.

We all know that's not what you should do but when there's 6 cuts left of the log and you still got oil just give her some extra pumps and get it done.

I have a spare 54cc block with a groove in it and I'm wondering about boring it to the 57cc piston and attacking it with a dremel to copy the S as best as possible. Be nice to know the bore measurement of the pm60 perhaps there is enough meat to go that far I suspect not though.

I've also read a few times the 57 is a bit more sporty compared to the 60 perhaps the 60 is ported more like a 54.

Anyway bla bla alot of out loud thinking going on :)
Put an 8 pin sprocket on that S and really make that 311 sweat!!
I did notice a pretty significant performance gain on a regular 10-10A when I swapped out it's carb for a fixed jet off an S , I haven't tried any timed cuts yet but it definitely does not have that high rpm fade in the cut , I don't think its as strong as my 55 or S but it is stronger than the saw it was with the factory SDC .
I also put an early 10-10 sdc on the 55 to test it and it definitely suffered with the smaller carb.
 
Boring a cast cylinder can be done easily chucked up on a standard centre lathe, or even a Bridgeport style turret mill, though honing to provide the oil bearing surface is ideally applied with tooling for blind cylinders.

On the Danarm 55 and it seems early McCulloch 10 series saws used a cast in liner using the Alfin technique. Looking at these cast iron saws, the intake and exhuast porting is applied by drilling, or milling and the port profiles are as such less than optimal. The transfers are cast in. My experience is that these iron engine 10 series, and certainly Danarm 55's offer only modest performance compared to the later chrome cylinder models.

The McCulloch chrome cylinders are manufactured on complex die casting tooling, and the port profiles follow a more developed shape, more accurately produced. So on what you say, two versions of chrome 7-10 are known to exist. The question has to be, what if anything is different to the PM 700 or the Super Pro 70, we now know timings.

Roland.

So what you're saying is those 3 finger cast cylinders are actually that way for ease of manufacture.
It does make sense. I'm really keen on hogging out those transfers now.

What's your thoughts on that timing? To be they are just numbers and havnt got into what the numbers achieve yet. It's big step in the learning curve understanding what can make what sort of power as apposed to copying.

Pu
Put an 8 pin sprocket on that S and really make that 311 sweat!!
I did notice a pretty significant performance gain on a regular 10-10A when I swapped out it's carb for a fixed jet off an S , I haven't tried any timed cuts yet but it definitely does not have that high rpm fade in the cut , I don't think its as strong as my 55 or S but it is stronger than the saw it was with the factory SDC .
I also put an early 10-10 sdc on the 55 to test it and it definitely suffered with the smaller carb.

I think in that size wood an 8t would probably work well.

Is the sdc65 the carb your talking about? Funny thing is the fixed tillys u have seem to run abit harder than the 65 yet the 65 is bigger. All very confused with carbs. I do like the 43 and 44

Is the pm60 cast sleeve? And the 55?
 
So what you're saying is those 3 finger cast cylinders are actually that way for ease of manufacture.
It does make sense. I'm really keen on hogging out those transfers now.

What's your thoughts on that timing? To be they are just numbers and havnt got into what the numbers achieve yet. It's big step in the learning curve understanding what can make what sort of power as apposed to copying.



I think in that size wood an 8t would probably work well.

Is the sdc65 the carb your talking about? Funny thing is the fixed tillys u have seem to run abit harder than the 65 yet the 65 is bigger. All very confused with carbs. I do like the 43 and 44

Is the pm60 cast sleeve? And the 55?

The 44 is a great carb.
I haven't put a magnet to the 55 or 60.
 
So what you're saying is those 3 finger cast cylinders are actually that way for ease of manufacture.
It does make sense. I'm really keen on hogging out those transfers now.

What's your thoughts on that timing? To be they are just numbers and havnt got into what the numbers achieve yet. It's big step in the learning curve understanding what can make what sort of power as apposed to copying.



I think in that size wood an 8t would probably work well.

Is the sdc65 the carb your talking about? Funny thing is the fixed tillys u have seem to run abit harder than the 65 yet the 65 is bigger. All very confused with carbs. I do like the 43 and 44

Is the pm60 cast sleeve? And the 55?
The 49sdc , the 65s I have are fully adjustable. 20191106_194214.jpg
 
Put an S in a old lightweight chassis.
View attachment 806854
Cracking saw I swear it's 4lbs lighter than a pm10-10. Feels like it anyway. It's got a wonderful sound to it too brap braaap braaaaaap pop pop pop whaaaaaaa pop pop whaaaaaaaaaa.
Lol ok enough
I have been wanting to do this.

Brian
 
I have been wanting to do this.

Brian

It really is a wonderful combination. Its definitely 1 of my favorite saws it's like modern weight and power with old Mac charm. You let a modern saw guy have a blast and he won't give it back till its empty haha with a big silly grin too
 
PM saws vibration isolation added weight? Spose so the weight of the 55 I have is indeed nice but that muffler is brutal!!!!

oh yes btw the 55 and 60 cylinders I have are aluminum plated not iron linered
 
Absolutely it will. You have a spare 7-10 engine? The 7-10 is light anyway. It's the pm saws that ate all the pies
I have a whole 7-10 that needs more parts (covers, muffler, etc) than its worth, so I plan to just wait until a cheap 10-10 comes along and slap it in.
 
PM saws vibration isolation added weight? Spose so the weight of the 55 I have is indeed nice but that muffler is brutal!!!!

oh yes btw the 55 and 60 cylinders I have are aluminum plated not iron linered

Yeah pm I mean pro mac from 77 on not the earlier pm55 and 60. Good to know they are chrome too. They changed the material so like the 850 is heavy vs the 81. Or 7-10 vs 700. I found 125 grams in just the starter parts by themselves.

I have a whole 7-10 that needs more parts (covers, muffler, etc) than its worth, so I plan to just wait until a cheap 10-10 comes along and slap it in.

The muffler will need to be a duct style as the flat ones dont fit but otherwise yeah what ever you can find rigid 10 series left hand pull. Mix and match 10 series is good fun
 
Yeah pm I mean pro mac from 77 on not the earlier pm55 and 60. Good to know they are chrome too. They changed the material so like the 850 is heavy vs the 81. Or 7-10 vs 700. I found 125 grams in just the starter parts by themselves.



The muffler will need to be a duct style as the flat ones dont fit but otherwise yeah what ever you can find rigid 10 series left hand pull. Mix and match 10 series is good fun
I need a muffler unfortunately, the one I have is mostly gone. Might have to get creative.
 
I need a muffler unfortunately, the one I have is mostly gone. Might have to get creative.
Jethro is right, the parts will all mix and match very well. I bought a 7-10 engine off ebay awhile ago and put it into a pro 10-10 automatic frame. Worked like a champ. Then after all the 70cc talk a few weeks ago i went further and took it apart down to cylinder and oil tank and put the 7-10 cylinder and crank onto a sp81 oil tank, then kept going and built a sp7-10 out of parts. It runs just perfect. The only issue is the sticker on the air filter. It says sp81 instead of sp71, ha. I posted several pictures of the build. I had zero issues doing it all, matching parts went well. I did modify the rear shroud for a dsp but that was it. Went smooth.
 
I need a muffler unfortunately, the one I have is mostly gone. Might have to get creative.

The ducts can be found on ebay and just build a cover/outlet like 2broke has just (really like his) or you could cut the flange off and build your own duct if you can weld.

My hot rod 10-10 actually started life as a right hand pull but at some point it had been rebuilt with a points 54cc lefty of some description or just the crank I'm not sure but it was clean as a whistle and alot of love had been put into it the starter was rough as guts and clearly not from the saw. Couldn't get it to run right it would start an idle well but severely spit fuel back out and I gave up.

I accidentally wound up with an S engine (was meant to be 70cc) he ended up finding me the 70cc too and I kept the S as well (wahoo)

The S had done bugger all work as the saw lost spark and got thrown in the corner sometime in the early 90s. So I should have that saw for many many years hopfully
 
I just got a loop of chain for this 24" bar from bailey's, I ordered woodland pro and got Carlton. Not sure how I feel about it, my only other experience with Carlton has been their semi chisel and it's awful imo. Anyway, the bar was a good fit for my 1-52 so on it went. Every one of these old front tank saws I've gotten around here has had an 18inch bar on it, kinda silly on an 87cc saw imo lol.

I also recieved this "parts" saw today from a member on another forum. It is supposedly a 2-10DSP. Seems to have solid compression. I'm tempted to try to make it run lol. but it is missing the starter and air filter lid plus the tank is rotten inside and it has the darn bullfrog carb.
fd62a6c14c026280e0756dd8dc4d1bac.jpg
8bdf138cb2a0c95830766d2c89cdec48.jpg
5f91f8ed8ffc49410350a50ce5d8ca81.jpg


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I just got a loop of chain for this 24" bar from bailey's, I ordered woodland pro and got Carlton. Not sure how I feel about it, my only other experience with Carlton has been their semi chisel and it's awful imo. Anyway, the bar was a good fit for my 1-52 so on it went. Every one of these old front tank saws I've gotten around here has had an 18inch bar on it, kinda silly on an 87cc saw imo lol.

I also recieved this "parts" saw today from a member on another forum. It is supposedly a 2-10DSP. Seems to have solid compression. I'm tempted to try to make it run lol. but it is missing the starter and air filter lid plus the tank is rotten inside and it has the darn bullfrog carb.
fd62a6c14c026280e0756dd8dc4d1bac.jpg
8bdf138cb2a0c95830766d2c89cdec48.jpg
5f91f8ed8ffc49410350a50ce5d8ca81.jpg


Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

There's plenty starters around you could sdc it and get it running. How bad is the tank though?
 
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