You can buy them directly from Elder Rubber Company in Texas but the have a minimum order of 20 pieces. If you only want one or two is it better to get them from Bob Johnson.
Mark
Mark
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I worked on a few small saws this week so I will have some ready for sale when the uninitiated come through the shop.
This one needed fuel lines and a stop switch. Photos are before a thorough cleaning.
I suspect someone left the brake on and could not understand why the chain wouldn't move even though they held the throttle wide open.
This one has been sitting around for a while, like most of these 32/35/38cc models I had to replace the fuel and oil lines.
Mark
This one needed fuel lines and a stop switch. Photos are before a thorough cleaning.
I suspect someone left the brake on and could not understand why the chain wouldn't move even though they held the throttle wide open.
This one has been sitting around for a while, like most of these 32/35/38cc models I had to replace the fuel and oil lines.
Mark
Well guys & gals,I finally got around to putting the DE80 recoil back together today.I held it on the saw by hand & pulled it over,it's got some really good compression.Later in the day I took both tank handles off the saws & did a preliminary cleaning.The choke linkage from the donor saw was unhooked underneath,easy to fix when the handle's off the saw.While putting the new boot on I lost one of the screws.I can't figure out what happened to it,I had all 3 laying next to each other on the workbench.I thought it might've fallen into the tool drawer,so I went through both compartments & found nothing.Just when I was about to give up I found a Homelite points box screw for an SEZ.It looked to be the same size & sure enough it was.I'm not quite sure that I want to Red Kote the fuel tank on the donor saw,it has only a very small amount of rust inside.I took the fuel pump cover off the SDC85 carb & it looked like new.I haven't looked at the metering side yet.I need to swap the fuel line from the original tank to the donor tank as it's in much better shape,almost like new.I think the hardest part will be getting the manual oil rod lined up & getting the screws back in place.
I'll be cutting wood tomorrow & Sun.I need to tear another saw apart to see about getting it welded,so my work on the DE80 will probably be on hold till about Tues.
Ed
I'll be cutting wood tomorrow & Sun.I need to tear another saw apart to see about getting it welded,so my work on the DE80 will probably be on hold till about Tues.
Ed
I decided to go out and cut some with the 4-10. I made 2 cuts and realized I forgot my tuning screw driver in the garage. Walked back to the garage with the saw running in my hand, grabbed the screwdriver and headed back to the log pile. The saw died on the way to the log pile and i couldn't get it to restart. Back at the garage, spark would jump a spark plug but not my spark tester unless I spun the motor quite fast with my drill. I figured the chip died (have heard all the warnings) but wanted to try it anyway. So I cleaned up the original points and put them back I and gapped them. Had great spark. Put it back together and it fired right up. Great!! Had to go in for dinner, came out after dinner, saw fired but would die when I tried to rev it. Checked spark again and it is inconsistent unless I spin the motor fast with a drill. What am I missing here? Is this a coil issue? I've always had coils either fail or not.
Also, is this fuel cap repairable?
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Not to butt in here, but as others have said, check the wiring, and try a different plug. But something to check, is the coil lead. Make sure it doesn't have any wear or "bald spots" on it.
I remember working on a saw, that would do the same thing. It had good spark when testing (sometimes) but intermittent, or weak/no spark after running (unless pulled incredibly quickly). At idle, it would stall, try to rev it up, it would stall. After that, It would be difficult or just refuse to restart.
Turns out the lead had some slight wear, and was arcing off the cylinder, causing the whole problem. I'm not saying this is your problem, it's just something that's easy to check for.
I like how they want you to push the primer bulb 10x ! On the ms354.
Thats happened to me twice . I've learned to run my hand along the plug lead while pulling the starter cord, shocky shocky!
2broke2ride
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I replaced the plug lead when I rebuilt the saw, the original was trashed. I used bulk 7mm solid core wire which was to big to fit in the coil socket so i had to strip some of the insulation. I also broke a chunk out of the coil socket trying to remove the old wire. I may be better off just finding another coil at this point.
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What solid core wire are you using?
Yup I've only been successful with 1 coil at not breaking the socket hole but the other 2 are good, just held in with epoxy or ultra black permtex.
I usually steal a condenser from 1 of the many mini mac series I find.
2broke2ride
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The stuff I have came from tractor supply. It was a universal tractor wire set. It is braided steel core. I bought it off the clearance rack for 10.00 with no ends figuring it would be good for small engine plug wires.
I used permatex and a small zip tie to hold the wire into the coil.
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Any points coil from another 10 series saw will fit.If you could take a coil out of a known good running saw & swap it into the saw you're having problems with & the saw starts & runs fine,then you know for sure that the coil is your culprit.If you've got the same problems,then your problem is not in the coil,it's elsewhere.
I had the same problem as Manic84 with the first Mac I worked on,a 10-10.The condenser had gone bad,so the PO put a chip in it,although not a very good job of it,& when I'd pull the recoil sometimes I'd get spark & other times I wouldn't.This was driving me kinda crazy & one night while laying in bed it occurred to me that the coil wire that had been run through the cylinder fins was shorting out.I could hear it arcing at times.The next day I pulled the coil & wire out of the fins & sure enough my theory was proven correct.The lead wire had worn through & was shorting out.I rerouted the wire on the outside of the saw & it's one of my favorite go to saws now.
Ed
I had the same problem as Manic84 with the first Mac I worked on,a 10-10.The condenser had gone bad,so the PO put a chip in it,although not a very good job of it,& when I'd pull the recoil sometimes I'd get spark & other times I wouldn't.This was driving me kinda crazy & one night while laying in bed it occurred to me that the coil wire that had been run through the cylinder fins was shorting out.I could hear it arcing at times.The next day I pulled the coil & wire out of the fins & sure enough my theory was proven correct.The lead wire had worn through & was shorting out.I rerouted the wire on the outside of the saw & it's one of my favorite go to saws now.
Ed
Accel racing wire fits in the socket well ,copper core . Its alittle pricey so if you want to try it again pm me and I'll ship you a peice.
Yeah, ditch that cheap plug lead. If it's not what's biting you now, it will be sooner than later. The busted coil may not be doing you any favors, either.
2broke2ride
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Hiw are you getting that wire to fit the socket? The stock wire seems to be more like 6mm.
I guess I dont really understand what would be wrong with this wire, its braided, plenty of insulation, what more is there to it?
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I ordered it from summit racing, but it messed with my radio too much. It's silicone coated, seems like the solid core wires don't have to have very thick insulation.
I finished up a couple more plastic Mac's today. The first up is the anti-vibe edition of the 32/35/38 cc plastic saws. This one was very low on compression so I put a NOS short block in it that I got from Bob Johnson a while back. This is basically a new saw now.
I forgot to get some better photos of this one, this is a very late model (2005) 50 cc saw with all of the modern features. Starts, runs, oils as it should...I am tempted to take it out and see how it cuts but I may be spoiled for 50 cc saws with my warmed over 550XP (Husqvarna). I will put this one in the museum but would be willing to sell it if someone was really interested. Has 200 PSI compression...
Mark
I forgot to get some better photos of this one, this is a very late model (2005) 50 cc saw with all of the modern features. Starts, runs, oils as it should...I am tempted to take it out and see how it cuts but I may be spoiled for 50 cc saws with my warmed over 550XP (Husqvarna). I will put this one in the museum but would be willing to sell it if someone was really interested. Has 200 PSI compression...
Mark
North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report
Conora virus concerns has cost us our inmates and has kept many of us at bay. Earlier this week I was asked to load wood today so I headed out early this morning in a slight drizzle. We have had rain off and on all week but I wasn't aware that we had an additional inch last night. I was one 4' log from a full second load when the Deere sank in the mud. Had to winch out, so I called it a day without even firing up a saw. Brian worked the lot with some success.
Some of you may have noticed the activated chain brake on my PM800 in last week's photos. My old nemesis has returned - the rivet had loosened. I did most of my cutting manually holding the chain brake back. I usually use some flagging tape for that purpose. Somehow I managed to lose the rivet and the trigger even though it sit flush against the brake band. Not sure how or where it happen. I didn't notice it until I got home so these parts are surely long gone. I salvaged replacement parts from another brake but the rivet would not tighten so I drilled and safety wired it. Not sure how long it will work before it too becomes too loose or the wire breaks, but it works for now. Also I am not sure how the previous owner managed to eat up the housing other than running a really loose chain. I assume that the rivet has a taper and the loss of housing thickness is why the replacement rivet won't hold. For now I am going to carry a spare old style trigger and spring in the tool box for future quick repairs.
Repair
Quick repair parts
Be Safe Out There.
Ron
This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.
Conora virus concerns has cost us our inmates and has kept many of us at bay. Earlier this week I was asked to load wood today so I headed out early this morning in a slight drizzle. We have had rain off and on all week but I wasn't aware that we had an additional inch last night. I was one 4' log from a full second load when the Deere sank in the mud. Had to winch out, so I called it a day without even firing up a saw. Brian worked the lot with some success.
Some of you may have noticed the activated chain brake on my PM800 in last week's photos. My old nemesis has returned - the rivet had loosened. I did most of my cutting manually holding the chain brake back. I usually use some flagging tape for that purpose. Somehow I managed to lose the rivet and the trigger even though it sit flush against the brake band. Not sure how or where it happen. I didn't notice it until I got home so these parts are surely long gone. I salvaged replacement parts from another brake but the rivet would not tighten so I drilled and safety wired it. Not sure how long it will work before it too becomes too loose or the wire breaks, but it works for now. Also I am not sure how the previous owner managed to eat up the housing other than running a really loose chain. I assume that the rivet has a taper and the loss of housing thickness is why the replacement rivet won't hold. For now I am going to carry a spare old style trigger and spring in the tool box for future quick repairs.
Repair
Quick repair parts
Be Safe Out There.
Ron
This valuable report is provided through the the generous support of MacNuts like you and Blind Squirrel Falling, one of America's greatest imaginary businesses.
Not much to report on the wood lot side. I started out splitting wood on the wood processor until after the first load of wood came in from Ron. I started out cutting with the PM800 until I hit something in one of the logs and dulling the chain. I went and got the PM805 and cut most of the remainder of the day with it until I caught a curb in the back of the lot and took that chain out. I had all but quit by that point. Just waiting for Andy to turn a few logs so I could finish the cuts. Went out to the truck for the 3rd time and all I had let was the PM10-10S and finished with it.
Brian
Brian
Got a few feet of this for a 10-10 repair, plus whatever future repairs - seems to be nice stuff so far. 10-10 should be 7mm, and I assume that follows for 10 series (and more)? Also good for Super XL and a lot of the older saws in general. I specifically went for tinned to ensure the wire's not corroding in the jacket, especially given the working environments that saws see.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/7mm-EPDM-T...-Wire-great-for-MAGNETOS-by-foot/173320248332
2broke2ride
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I am certain this was not 7mm. I will measure the wire in the 2-10 coil that apart on the bench right now tomorrow. Maybe the earlier saws used smaller wire because they tucked it behind the shroud???? Idk.
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Ron that clutch cover looks to have the same wear pattern as the cover I have off the 10-10 I found with the bow bar .
Most of the bow bar clutch covers look like they are modified by Hammy Mcfisterson . After a couple of thrown chains on it and it just looks like a wear pattern.
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