McCulloch Chain Saws

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I don’t know about milling but there are people on here who do. I’m sure they will chime in

Pictures of the saw would help also.
Yea I'm hoping that some people that do mill will chime in. There is nothing special about the saw as it is basically stock.
I have removed the gas tank and made some mounts that attach to the anti vibe mounts for gas tank and air filter. I also in the process of extending the tube from crankcase to the carburetor. Any ideas is welcome.
 
Yea I'm hoping that some people that do mill will chime in. There is nothing special about the saw as it is basically stock.
I have removed the gas tank and made some mounts that attach to the anti vibe mounts for gas tank and air filter. I also in the process of extending the tube from crankcase to the carburetor. Any ideas is welcome.

Are you experienced with other saws?
 
Are you experienced with other saws?
Not at this time. This saw should be very good for milling due to the size. The down side is the stock gas tank. Making a mount is easy unbolt and put on angle brackets so as to mount a different gas tank and a better air cleaner to start with. I can still use the saw to buck with for big wood.
 
Are you experienced with other saws?
I'm also thinking of fitting on a 2-cycle exhaust tuned pipe of about 125 cc size onto the exhaust port of this McCulloch chainsaw. The key is fabrication of a header box for the tuned pipe to fit on it to make it all work. This set up of course is really only for milling logs etc.
 
Yea I'm hoping that some people that do mill will chime in. There is nothing special about the saw as it is basically stock.
I have removed the gas tank and made some mounts that attach to the anti vibe mounts for gas tank and air filter. I also in the process of extending the tube from crankcase to the carburetor. Any ideas is welcome.

I use a ProMac 700 for milling -- it works well enough for the bit I do, but it's certainly got it's limations -- your saw will do quite a bit better no doubt. I've got a chainsaw mill with a track based on the Procut Portable sawmills plans, with some minor adaptations.

Mostly I haven't done any real modifications to the saw itself for the purposes of using with the mill, but I do the following when I use it:

  1. Remove the brake arm -- I actually have a 2nd clutch cover that's not 100% but works well for this purpose.
  2. I have a gas cap that I have drilled to fit a piece of fuel line into. I was going to use this to feed fuel from an auxiliary tank, but I ended up just using it for an upwardly extended vent for the tank (I've got one way valve and piece of sponge for a filter on the end) to keep gas from seeping out of the tank when it laying on it's side all the time. The whole saw carriage is pretty easy to tip on it's side when re-fueling, so I don't find I need an auxiliary tank -- If I was doing a lot of milling, I'd probably add the tank.
  3. I have scooter velocity stack I got off ebay and modified (made the inner diameter a little larger) and a unifilter sock filter with nylon stocking pre-filter that I use -- I just leave the cover off. I find the cavity above stock fuel filter setup is prone to filling up with sawdust when you're always running the saw on it's side.
  4. And then I retune the carb while I'm running it.

I don't know how applicable these minor mods would be to other Mccullochs and othter types of mills.
 
On a different note. . .

Is there anything special about the shim washer in the ProMac 700 / 10-10 clutch/sprocket setup? My saw didn't have one and I've just used a 1/2" shim washer from Home Depot that I replace from time to time.

Well it's time for an altogether new clutch and sprocket on my saw and I've been wondering if I shouldn't get the proper shim washer, part # 86958. That said, while they seem to be available from a few US ebay vendors, it'll cost me $35 by the time I get it shipped to me in Canada. If it's basically just a 1/2" thin shim washer anyway, I'm not sure it's really worth it.

If someone who really knows that series of McCullochs could guide me here, I'd appreciate it.
 
Not at this time. This saw should be very good for milling due to the size. The down side is the stock gas tank. Making a mount is easy unbolt and put on angle brackets so as to mount a different gas tank and a better air cleaner to start with. I can still use the saw to buck with for big wood.
Ok , I built a building on the side of (Table Rock state park's mountain SC)using a Granberg mill and honestly you'd be way ahead of the game selling that saw and using the money for a 395xp husqvarna or a 660/ 066 stihl, first off you'll make enough money to buy 2 saws and if the oiler or anything else craps out on you you won't be S.O.L..
The McCulloch chainsaw you have is awesome and legendary but for your application it's going to be awful, and I'm speaking from experience on this subject.
The right tool for the job as they say.
 
Is there anything special about the shim washer in the ProMac 700 / 10-10 clutch/sprocket setup? My saw didn't have one and I've just used a 1/2" shim washer from Home Depot that I replace from time to time.

If you have the IPL, you've undoubtedly seen this...

Untitled.jpg
And as fate would have it... https://www.ebay.com/p/1401601588?iid=371919550132

The above aside, there were three of the stock thin thrust washers stacked together underneath a smaller one on the 7-10 I'm working on. Not sure why and how there would be a clearance issue unless something else is amiss requiring the additional offset. I imagine I'll find out during reassembly.
 
If you have the IPL, you've undoubtedly seen this...

View attachment 811269
And as fate would have it... https://www.ebay.com/p/1401601588?iid=371919550132

The above aside, there were three of the stock thin thrust washers stacked together underneath a smaller one on the 7-10 I'm working on. Not sure why and how there would be a clearance issue unless something else is amiss requiring the additional offset. I imagine I'll find out during reassembly.

Actually I hadn't seen that note.

I can see you definitely need something to keep the sprocket aligned and to keep the rim from falling off the sprocket towards the seal; but it seems like almost anything that's not too thick and the right diameter would work. . . . but maybe the proper part is some special spring steel?
 
Yeah I would imagine not a lot of people use a Mac SP125 for milling simply because of the collector value. That’s a very desirable saw you have.
Yes it is a collector type of saw. The saw is still on its first life so I plan on using it a lot. I will collect new parts for it in time. I can always put the gas tank back on it and sell it if I want to. There probably is still a lot of dead one's still around for parts as well.
 
I use a ProMac 700 for milling -- it works well enough for the bit I do, but it's certainly got it's limations -- your saw will do quite a bit better no doubt. I've got a chainsaw mill with a track based on the Procut Portable sawmills plans, with some minor adaptations.

Mostly I haven't done any real modifications to the saw itself for the purposes of using with the mill, but I do the following when I use it:

  1. Remove the brake arm -- I actually have a 2nd clutch cover that's not 100% but works well for this purpose.
  2. I have a gas cap that I have drilled to fit a piece of fuel line into. I was going to use this to feed fuel from an auxiliary tank, but I ended up just using it for an upwardly extended vent for the tank (I've got one way valve and piece of sponge for a filter on the end) to keep gas from seeping out of the tank when it laying on it's side all the time. The whole saw carriage is pretty easy to tip on it's side when re-fueling, so I don't find I need an auxiliary tank -- If I was doing a lot of milling, I'd probably add the tank.
  3. I have scooter velocity stack I got off ebay and modified (made the inner diameter a little larger) and a unifilter sock filter with nylon stocking pre-filter that I use -- I just leave the cover off. I find the cavity above stock fuel filter setup is prone to filling up with sawdust when you're always running the saw on it's side.
  4. And then I retune the carb while I'm running it.

I don't know how applicable these minor mods would be to other Mccullochs and othter types of mills.
Thanks that is also what I first thought of doing on the factory gas cap. However unbolting it all I think will work better as it is kinda hard to get a modified gas cap to stop the leaking.
I figure after any modification one needs to re-tune the carb.
 
Yes it is a collector type of saw. The saw is still on its first life so I plan on using it a lot. I will collect new parts for it in time. I can always put the gas tank back on it and sell it if I want to. There probably is still a lot of dead one's still around for parts as well.
Parts are getting scarce, very pricy, and the "dead ones" have dried up. much as I like my 125's, and I REALLY do, as been said, a 395 is a much better tool for the job. What you are proposing is like driving a 1970 hemi Challenger to work as a daily driver. Have fun at rush hour. A modern hemi challenger is a much better vechicle for the job. Maybe not as cool, but a much wiser choice.
 
but maybe the proper part is some special spring steel?
Just a thin thrust washer. Nothing obviously special about it unless the type of steel used is less abrasive to the end of the needle cage. Mine has certainly seen better days on one end. Other end looks new.

0327201214_resized.jpg

0327201215_resized.jpg

0327201221a_resized.jpg
 
Yes it is a collector type of saw. The saw is still on its first life so I plan on using it a lot. I will collect new parts for it in time. I can always put the gas tank back on it and sell it if I want to. There probably is still a lot of dead one's still around for parts as well.
Not to be rude, but I don’t think you understand what you have there. I would listen to these guys and sell the SP125 to someone who understands the value of saw and will care for it properly, and use the funds from that sale to buy a saw that more suits your application. That saw could easily fetch well over 1k
 
Not to be rude, but I don’t think you understand what you have there. I would listen to these guys and sell the SP125 to someone who understands the value of saw and will care for it properly, and use the funds from that sale to buy a saw that more suits your application. That saw could easily fetch well over 1k
Yes I have seen that type of price on this type of saw. The saw will not sell very quick at that price to a collector. I'm thinking of using the saw for some time then if I get tired of it I will sell it. There may not be that many running saws out there like this unless it has been re - built. Finding a saw this size for less then 700 - 900.00 may be hard to do. The saw will not go down much in value unless I damage it. I know the saw is a part of McCulloch history however it is also useful for cutting. Here in Oregon this saw is not valued as much as a collector saw as there is others around here in this logging area.
 

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