Forgot. My .404” 800 has the old duct and a ceramic and lube coated piston.
Ron
Ron
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Great job Ron!, honestly most of those numbers look right to me considering that the test wood is red oak. The 55 and 700 are ? But i trust you guys tuning.
I see alot of Douglas fir tests or cotton wood tests but soft wood is soft and fast to cut with high rpms. Anyone who burns red oak knows the joy of hand splitting it and its narley grain.
When I do test cuts at home it's almost always in oak or maple because if the saw is throwing big chips out of that I know I'm good to go in the field. I think if you redid the cuts with a Virginia pine your numbers "in the sweet spot" would jump up considerably.
I see alot of Douglas fir tests or cotton wood tests but soft wood is soft and fast to cut with high rpms. Anyone who burns red oak knows the joy of hand splitting it and its narley grain.
When I do test cuts at home it's almost always in oak or maple because if the saw is throwing big chips out of that I know I'm good to go in the field. I think if you redid the cuts with a Virginia pine your numbers "in the sweet spot" would jump up considerably.
Why not set a practical reserve for your own protection -- like what you paid or have into it? And don't hide it. That puts people off. It also lets folks know you know what you have and are being realistic and honest about your expectations. You'll still get serious bidders for any decent McCulloch most days of the week with that approach. No games or d-bag bidders.
No reason for a seller to gamble..., unless they enjoy the risk factor. Otherwise, may as well just sell it for 10 bux with free shipping in the first place.
Nothing too scientific about our tests as there were too many variables.
I can't speak for the 55. But we only re-tuned from a winter tune those noted. Temps in mid-80s versus 40s. However, the 700's max rpm was right up there with the smaller ten series and within 600 rpm of the factory spec (DK if that is measured with or without a chain). This surprised me because it has always seemed to be a slow saw to me. I will attribute the surprise to Brian's carb work and tuning this past winter. The problem with it yesterday may be with the chain. It, the two small Stihls and the CS8000 were all running new chains off the same roll. The CS8000 almost required a slight up pressure to hit its spot. The two Stihls were lower rpm than I expected. The 700 just settled in albeit at a slow 6500 rpm.
I made a cut with Brian's 1010S and would bet with a 20" bar it would have beat by a little my 700 as equipped yesterday.
Ron
It is a PM55, 57cc with a fixed jet. I have no understanding of why it is so much slower than the PM10-10S. I do plan on putting a Walbro SDC adjustable carb on it and seeing if it speeds it up. It seamed a little rich, but not that bad.
The PM10-10S is one of my go to saws. Starts easy, runs great, you can lean on it and it will just keep going. It has a much wider powerband than the standard 10-10.
Brian
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Add a P51 to that list.
Got to find one first!
Ive watched ebay for a long time and it doesnt pay as well when you set a reserve people dont bid as much. A set price and you may get it but a low start and realistic shipping with an end time around 8 or 9 pm on a weekend, lots of good pictures, an honest and good description.....they will bid. You cant argue with success.
Of topic a little, but is there a way to adapt the regular ignition system to the 2 peice 850 motor? Mark had posted something about the later ignition bolting up to saws universally?
I'm no expert but pretty sure the later type bolts straight up. Have you got another 82cc?
The 10-10S has a wicked wide power it doesn't seem to fall away anywhere even lugging really low it still pulls hard yet still has a nice top end too. Really worth the effort of putting the S engine in an old light chassis it becomes a nice limbing saw for carting in the brush.
Had some good racing with my mates OB ms311 and that mac felt lighter and more compact to sling around and 2cc down could still beat the Off Brand every time unless he was cutting 4 inch sticks . Sounds a thousand times better and seemed to be just as economical too
The 311 was right on the edge of stalling in 20 inch hard wood like barely adequate the S was eager for more. Both running similar chain
could almost say you could take all my Macs but not that S its just a perfect 1 saw plan for firewood. Could even pull a 24 for felling bigger stuff if needed 16 would be savage
Speaking of cool stuff and people...sorry to brag on jethro but i have to. He made an awesome accessory for mac saws and sent it to me. I put it on my favorite sp81 saw with zero issues. I cant say thanks enough nor stop saying how great a job in fabrication. Its a bucking spike in the image of the HS spikes for the 125 saws. Great job and thanks very much!!! 
There were a number of cylinders produced that would accept either the points coil or the electronic ignition coil as you can see here. To install a points style coil there was a spacer to bring the mount boss up to the correct height.
This particular saw is a PM555 with the electronic coil and a points lobe crankshaft.
To install a two piece ignition like the SP81E and early PM850 saws the block also must accommodate the coil mount on the bottom. I don't think the second mount is available on any block other than the 81E and early PM850.
The trigger unit bolts up where the electronic ignition coil would mount.
Mark
This particular saw is a PM555 with the electronic coil and a points lobe crankshaft.
To install a two piece ignition like the SP81E and early PM850 saws the block also must accommodate the coil mount on the bottom. I don't think the second mount is available on any block other than the 81E and early PM850.
The trigger unit bolts up where the electronic ignition coil would mount.
Mark
Addressing Brian's post #37,465: I have a PM55 (points saw) that I installed a new piston and cylinder a few years ago, it has not been run excessively so it is still pretty fresh and my guess is it would give any PM10-10S a real challenge. I have several PM10-10S saws and have run them a lot as well but the PM55 is my hands down favorite in that range. I recently used it to noodle up some large red elm block I had bucked up with the SP125 and Holzforma G372XP. I think the PM55 was much stronger in the noodles than the 372 and I felt no need to even get my favorite 7-10 dirty that day. I could really lean on the PM55 and it just kept churning through those blocks.
Mark
Mark
Just another motor but it is sans ignition so was wondering if I could bolt a later one to it being it was a 2 peice.
Now to find another toasted 82cc with a DSP.
Mark: First, is your PM55 a fixed jet carb? Second after I think more about things, the original cylinder on my PM55 got damaged. I bought a cylinder from Chainsaw r and it was not in very good condition. Also the rings that I bought somewhere had a lot of ring end gap, but seamed like the old cylinder also had a lot wider ring end gap than I thought was proper and the saw had almost no hours on it. I am going to bet that a good cylinder and rings would pep that saw right up. Might be my next project to send to be re-plated if I can find the right rings.
Brian
Brian
Your very welcome Vinny
I could do the teeth a bit bigger for the antivibe saws but they fit both well all the same
Is that 55 cast or plated bore?
So thats a non Qport engine that's cool you could build a nice 81 around that from parts if ya can't find a donor
If I remember right, my PM55 is a plated bore. Brian
Ahh right for some reason I had in my head 55s were cast. Was thinking about boring out a 54 block to 57 and chew out the ports. I got three 54s sitting gathering dust
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