McCulloch Chain Saws

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Here is my latest project. My neighbor came over with it and told me he had finally gotten into cleaning out one of his sheds and found this and gave it to me. I did not get any before pictures, but I can tell you it was extremely dirty. I put some fuel into the carb and it fired, but quit after it ran out of the fuel I put in it. I had blew it out with compressed air, but when it started it blew out a couple hand fulls of stinkbugs and remains and nest. It was ugly. I pulled it apart and cleaned it and cleaned and rebuilt the carb and it runs like a clock. In the pictures it is missing the brake handle. I have got to find the screw that goes in there, it was missing when I got it.

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The stinkbugs I got out of it. A bunch of live ones that met there death due to a can of WD-40 and a lighter.

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I have not put it to wood, but it sounds good.

My other project, 1988 Honda Goldwing that has been setting for 15+ years. Had to clean fuel system and rebuild carbs. Chase a couple electrical gremlins and a few other things. Got it running and am now putting it back together. This is how a smooth engine runs. That is a nickel on the valve cover. Used to do this at bars and bet for beers. Won many beers doing this.

Brian

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Wow Brian.
 
Getting ready to bore this super 55 cylinder and do some port work. Although I know what I want to do I really would like to pick the brain of someone who has some decent experience modifying and porting old Mac cylinders.
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I've watched a few cart motor videos online, they do some modifications to the third port induction system. And make their own plates.
 
I'm looking for a little more info on the McCinderblocks. I have very little experience with them.
Is there any difference between a 610 and a 650 other than the DSP? I have heard the 650 has a popup piston??? Can anyone confirm this?
Also looking for SKF numbers for seals for these if anyone has them.
Thanks.

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The seals and bearings on the 600 Series are the same as many 10-10 models with the large O.D. for the flywheel side seal. Bearing I.D. and O.D. match the seal and it has a groove for the retaining ring. The PTO side are the 6119 seal and BH108 needle bearing. I can't confirm that the 650 has a pop up piston, but the 650 and 690 (cut off saw version) did routinely have a compression release located similar to the PM800 models.

I am a little distracted today as there is some excitement a few door down from the museum.

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Mark
 
So the first reason it wouldn't oil...... I think the PO was using vegetable oil for bar and chain lube. It turned the consistency of snot in the tank and it smells like cooking oil. Also, anywhere there is oily sawdust caked on it is hard and waxy.
This is my first experience with this, I would rather deal with used crankcase oil.
It is torn down and the parts are soaking in my solvent tank.

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Ok guys, I need a little help. My parts washer solvent will not touch this stuff. It is so bad that it fouled my parts cleaning brush. It is like semi hardened glue. I'm not even sure at this point that it is veg oil.
The caked on sawdust is like granite. Anyone have any suggestions for a cleaner? I don't really want to destroy the paint.

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Also, another question. I need a solution for fuel lines in the 10 series saws. I thought I had it figured out with Buna N grommets and real Saint Gobain Tygon line, but all the saws I've done since spring, the line has gone hard. I can't get non ethanol fuel around here, and I use too much to justify canned gas.
Give me an idea of what to use for line here guys.

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Ok guys, I need a little help. My parts washer solvent will not touch this stuff. It is so bad that it fouled my parts cleaning brush. It is like semi hardened glue. I'm not even sure at this point that it is veg oil.
The caked on sawdust is like granite. Anyone have any suggestions for a cleaner? I don't really want to destroy the paint.

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ATF or diesel.
 
Also, another question. I need a solution for fuel lines in the 10 series saws. I thought I had it figured out with Buna N grommets and real Saint Gobain Tygon line, but all the saws I've done since spring, the line has gone hard. I can't get non ethanol fuel around here, and I use too much to justify canned gas.
Give me an idea of what to use for line here guys.

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I have had Zero problems with this. Other than when I've got the tank low and the bar up on the ProMac800 as it is not as long as the Oem.
 
For the fuel line problem I use True Blue made by Stens.It's a Tygon fuel line that's blue in color & stands up to ethanol well.I stopped getting ethanol laden fuel a little over a yr.ago now,but I still continue to use the True Blue.It's fairly cheap too,I buy a 25 ft.coil in a box for $18-$25 depending on the size.I get it on eBay & it usually has free shipping.
 
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