McCulloch Chain Saws

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Don - the 640 should have an automatic oil pump on the gearbox, but it was the only non-super series engine with a top tank like that. It is possible someone swapped the gearbox from another model, or it is even possible that someone swapped a non-super series engine into an older gear drive saw frame.

Kevin - take the oil pump off, take it apart, and work the piston manually. You should be able to see the oil going down the inlet (green) and out the outlet (red). If the manual oiler works and the automatic oil pump does not the most likely problem is the piston is stuck. Sometimes just turning the adjuster screw a few turns clockwise will free them up, but removing the pump and working it manually is more positive.

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T-zero - I have had a lot of 10 Series saws apart and I don't recall any with that type of wavy washer (spring washer). I have to believe someone substituted it in place of flat washer; metric fasteners use a lot of those wavy washer and SAE stuff does not.

nw saws - the 92 is a non-super series engine. That would be a more natural swap in a 640, or one of the 1-60/61/62/63 models if you want a gear drive, a 250 or one of the other front tank saws for a direct drive.

Mark
 
Anyone happen to have a 740, 1-75 or 1-76 they would like to sell me? I need another good project to obsess over. Got an mc92 kart motor i want to put in to something!

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nw saws - the 92 is a non-super series engine. That would be a more natural swap in a 640, or one of the 1-60/61/62/63 models if you want a gear drive, a 250 or one of the other front tank saws for a direct drive.

Mark
It’ll be a week or so before I’m discharged and back at my house/shop, but I have a pretty nice 1-43 with a bad piston I’d gladly part with if you want to put your kart engine in a direct drive chassis.
 
Thats better! Stopped at tractor supply while I was out and grabbed a chain.
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I'm a stens dealer, got them on special for like $18, bought 2, figured for that price I'd try them out lol.

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Wow, you’ve gone from being an addict to being a dealer. That’s hard-core man!
 
Yeah I've heard that the tree grows so fast that it traps alot of debris it the bark and rings which contribute to dulling the chain.
I used to be the depth guage guy too.
When I started to understand more about sharpening I bacame the filing hero at work.
I cut alot of trees in campgrounds and around farms ,so if I didn't pick up on sharpening a chain I would probably spend alot of money or be discouraged to cut .
I find children will stuff anything they can when there's a knot hole at head level, I've hit rocks, hot wheels cars, pop cans, and alot of nails.
Two of the worst things I've ever run into with a brand new chain were a cast iron maple tap & a rock buried in the crotch of a tree.
 
Yeah I've heard that the tree grows so fast that it traps alot of debris it the bark and rings which contribute to dulling the chain.
I used to be the depth guage guy too.
When I started to understand more about sharpening I bacame the filing hero at work.
I cut alot of trees in campgrounds and around farms ,so if I didn't pick up on sharpening a chain I would probably spend alot of money or be discouraged to cut .
I find children will stuff anything they can when there's a knot hole at head level, I've hit rocks, hot wheels cars, pop cans, and alot of nails.

Yeah does make sense about the trapping debris.

That's really funny about the hot wheels cars lol. I'm guilty of nails as a kid for sure

Why the heck isn't the depth gauge thing common knowledge its like a dark art among the oh yes I have a chainsaw crowd. I guess the 2n1 sharpener is a good thing for many I still think it butchers chains but atleast they do cut better than a chain with rakers way high. That cheep little husky gauge and a flat file absolutely transformed cutting for me and every 1 I know too no more cutting on piss no more dogging in and heaving on it no more burred over bars and early warn out tie straps the sharpening hero is exactly right.

Still people get hung up on top plate angles n counting strokes. Top plate angles can be all over the show teeth lengths can be all over the show as long as that raker is set she'll cut ok. Get it all close and it'll cut better than a chain from the boy on the grinder at the shop. Anyway preaching to the wrong crowd here lol we all know by now. (Hopefully) :)
 
Jethro,don't tell me that you're one of those guys who thinks you have to use the same amount of strokes on each cutter?

Hell no man each cutter is its own thing and needs to be sharp. 2 strokes or 15. When getting to the end ill start giving the long ones some extra love especially if going to set the rakers afterwards
 
I was one of those guys who always knew about the rakers, learned form my old man, he would take a new chain and give amevery raker 1 lick with the flat file.
Of coarse I went to far with it, if some is good more must be better right? Lol.
Anyway, I've learned from my mistakes.
I free hand file, always have. And my chains are about the sharpest around these parts. Of course, I'm far from the best, but I'm far better than the "I have a chainsaw" crowd.

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When I started to understand more about sharpening I bacame the filing hero at work.

I find children will stuff anything they can when there's a knot hole at head level, I've hit rocks, hot wheels cars, pop cans, and alot of nails.

It's kinda funny when somehow you're the only one in the group that bothers to bring down the rakers or hand files, the looks you get are really something else. "How come your saw cuts like that?" ;)

I like to think kids are playing "Boo Radley" and leave "gifts" for others to find... But probably not.
But lots of nails, a chain wrapped around the tree... for some reason, that became part of it as time went on - talk about a surprise!
Or better yet "big kids" that like to use the trees as target practice, you're cutting along and then... "What was that? Aw man!".

To your earlier point about the wood trapping debris, that's why I mentioned the arid thing. In a sandy/rocky location and when out in the field, you have to touch up the cutters every 15 - 30 minutes depending how bad the area you're at is. The wood traps the stuff like mad and it can dull the chain quickly. Limbing/bucking gets tricky because of it, not to mention that during a certain time of year you can get into the "danger zone" fast, so you have to be careful and really plan out your work.
 
I'm looking for a little more info on the McCinderblocks. I have very little experience with them.
Is there any difference between a 610 and a 650 other than the DSP? I have heard the 650 has a popup piston??? Can anyone confirm this?
Also looking for SKF numbers for seals for these if anyone has them.
Thanks.

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My Pro Mac 650 does not have a popup piston. It has the standard thin ring piston (94130) that many of the 600 series have. Besides the DSP, I've heard the 650 has better porting and an upgraded HDB carb.

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So in spite of the rough looking piston, a carb rebuild and a little elbow grease made this one a solid runner, just gotta figure out why the auto oiler is refusing to work. The manual one is working fine so that is what I'm doing for now lol. I need to pick up another spool of chain and get a 20 inch bar on it, can't understand a 16 inch on a 60cc saw! I have bars, just out of chain at the moment lol.
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I agree with Mark. Take the oiler off and work the piston manually to test it. It's probably just gummed up. I run kerosene through it to clean it out with good results. If it pumps fine then the diaphragm could be stiff and need replacement.

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One thing I've noticed is that most people assume it's the saw that makes the cut.
My ProMac 700 is practically famous around my parks now because of the sound and the chip production.
I run 2 different 700s one with skip EXL ,and the full wrap with full comp .404 square chisel. It's hard to deny that the sound of these saws draw a crowd (reed removed) but the 5' - 10' stream of chips really impresses them.
The .404 square is absolutely not faster then the skip ,but it's the french fry size chips that people are amazed by.
I dont inform anyone that keeping the chain maintained is the difference between a good cutting saw and a bad.
Haha ,nope its the 700 just like Frosty's hat there's magic in it!
 
I've only been filing free hand for about 5 yrs.now.I'm not the best around,I'll be the first to admit that.I learned quite a bit from watching Billy Ray's videos just recently. I still haven't got those rakers figured out yet.
 
MS I still grin when I read about you using that 700 on the job thats really cool


I've only been filing free hand for about 5 yrs.now.I'm not the best around,I'll be the first to admit that.I learned quite a bit from watching Billy Ray's videos just recently. I still haven't got those rakers figured out yet.

What are ya setting them with Ed?

https://www.ebay.com/c/588456914
Really simple nothing to it put it over the raker and file it till it stops cutting move and repeat. I find on stihl chain the soft setting is a little hungry unless in Really Reeeally soft wood and big grunt eg young pine 20 inch bar and an 850 on the end of it
 
MS I still grin when I read about you using that 700 on the job thats really cool




What are ya setting them with Ed?

https://www.ebay.com/c/588456914
Really simple nothing to it put it over the raker and file it till it stops cutting move and repeat. I find on stihl chain the soft setting is a little hungry unless in Really Reeeally soft wood and big grunt eg young pine 20 inch bar and an 850 on the end of it
I've got the raker tool,but when I put it on the chain the entire raker sticks through.Obviously I'm doing something wrong.Lol
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/293779327466
Anyone ever seen a crank like this? Seller claims it may be for an mc91 kart engine. Any thoughts on this Mark?

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The idea behind a "full circle" crankshaft is to take up some more crankcase volume for a more dramatic charge when the transfers open. A full circle crankshaft can be made from most any crankshaft and the results will vary depending on the "excess" volume of the crankcase. AWOL had worked over a 795 by filling up the third port with epoxy that quite effectively reduced crankcase volume and made that saw outperform my bone stock SP125. He also made a full circle crankshaft for another saw (non-McCulloch if I remember correctly) and that one did not achieve a good performance boost. Evidently the crankcase volume was sufficiently small to begin with. I am not really schooled in all the theory and practice but I expect there is not a lot of advantage to the full circle in most McCulloch saws otherwise we would see a lot more of them.

Mark
 
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