McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

[heimannm]

Don't you guys have anything better to do on Christmas?

Just over the limit but I have a PM430 on the bench right now with a malfunction of the manual oiler. If anyone has experience with one of these please chime in. I do have a good IPL but it really does not help much.

Merry Christmas everyone, time to go for brunch at the young son's place.

Mark

 

[Overtrained]

Don't you guys have anything better to do on Christmas?

Just over the limit but I have a PM430 on the bench right now with a malfunction of the manual oiler. If anyone has experience with one of these please chime in. I do have a good IPL but it really does not help much.

Merry Christmas everyone, time to go for brunch at the young son's place.

Mark

Nahhh nothing better to do! ....Merry Christmas and hopefully someone will give u some input on the pm430

 

[Overtrained]

Heres a 3214 I put together from about 4 different members parts bin's. Just waiting on a carb rebuild kit. Saw fires on a prime but wont pull fuel.

 

[McC]

Yes the pump works on vacuum. If the seal for the pump itself is bad you usually get a vacuum leak and the saw idles high and runs like crap. It may be pulling oil into the crank case and masking the air leak somewhere. If you run the saw dry of bar oil does it still run ok and/or not smoke as much?

I'll have to try that sometime, thanks.
Scott

 

[minosi]

Hey Dennis, figured I come say hi!

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-Andy

 

[Overtrained]

Hey Dennis, figured I come say hi!

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-Andy

Welcome to the small CC Mac thread:hmm3grin2orange:

Nice job on the power mac, clean looking saw:msp_thumbup:

 

[heimannm]

I'm sorry as this one us just over the limit at 43 cc (I think that's what they mean by Pro Mac 430) but here it is anyway. Rather a peculiar little saw, built in the Italian factory with a vertical cylinder like the Titan models but it is a reed valve engine with the carburetor attached to the crank case. The automatic oiler is operated by crank case pressure pulses like so many real McCulloch saws (Titan models are gear drive off the crank shaft), but the oil pump is remote from the crank case with a channel or port to provide the pulse to the pump. The spike is attached by the bar nut, the clutch cover doesn't really hold anything in place.

I still haven't figured out what the problem is with the manual oiler, but the automatic works very well so I guess we'll just leave it at that for now.

Mark

 

[Scooterbum]

Okay I admit I got bout' 8 of them little yaller boogers.:hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange::hmm3grin2orange:

I use the PM6 (w/chainbrake) to cut up dem' little logs for the pellet syove

 

[sachsmo]

Front and center, I love my mini mac!

 

[Chris-PA]

I'm sorry as this one us just over the limit at 43 cc (I think that's what they mean by Pro Mac 430) but here it is anyway. Rather a peculiar little saw, built in the Italian factory with a vertical cylinder like the Titan models but it is a reed valve engine with the carburetor attached to the crank case. The automatic oiler is operated by crank case pressure pulses like so many real McCulloch saws (Titan models are gear drive off the crank shaft), but the oil pump is remote from the crank case with a channel or port to provide the pulse to the pump. The spike is attached by the bar nut, the clutch cover doesn't really hold anything in place.

I still haven't figured out what the problem is with the manual oiler, but the automatic works very well so I guess we'll just leave it at that for now.

Mark

Thanks Mark, I always enjoy seeing some different stuff. Looks like a decent design, just not very common.

 

[Moparmyway]

I have had a MAC 110 sitting around for about 10 years. Given to me by a friend who has passed away, he thought it was better to give it to me than to throw it out. If I remember correctly, it would start, idle way high and erratic, and only run with 1/2-3/4 choke.

I pulled her apart to pressure test and vac test, made a cylinder adapter for the Mightyvac and will be cutting some rubber for the block offs. Not the easiest to get apart, but I remembered from my teens to be carefull with the throttle, and remove the idle and choke screws. P & C look great ! Runs on prime.

Anything I should watch out for ??

 

[Overtrained]

I'm sorry as this one us just over the limit at 43 cc (I think that's what they mean by Pro Mac 430) but here it is anyway. Rather a peculiar little saw, built in the Italian factory with a vertical cylinder like the Titan models but it is a reed valve engine with the carburetor attached to the crank case. The automatic oiler is operated by crank case pressure pulses like so many real McCulloch saws (Titan models are gear drive off the crank shaft), but the oil pump is remote from the crank case with a channel or port to provide the pulse to the pump. The spike is attached by the bar nut, the clutch cover doesn't really hold anything in place.

I still haven't figured out what the problem is with the manual oiler, but the automatic works very well so I guess we'll just leave it at that for now.

Mark

Def dont see to many of those. Looks relatively easy to work on as everything seems easily accessible.

 

[heimannm]

Probably the seals, I have a couple that acted like that, replacing the seals did the trick.

If you have one that does not have the removable starter, you have to remember to properly align the flywheel fins with the starter pawls when removing and installing the engine in the housing.

A rubber band to hold the throttle in place while you are assembling helps too.

Mark

 

[sachsmo]

Only experience I had with mine is, once you get the low/high dialed in, count your turns precicely and loc tite them in.

I also removed the little copper tab for the kill switch, it was arcing to the throttle linkage.

Sounds like that one is sucking air someplace.

 

[Overtrained]

I have had a MAC 110 sitting around for about 10 years. Given to me by a friend who has passed away, he thought it was better to give it to me than to throw it out. If I remember correctly, it would start, idle way high and erratic, and only run with 1/2-3/4 choke.

I pulled her apart to pressure test and vac test, made a cylinder adapter for the Mightyvac and will be cutting some rubber for the block offs. Not the easiest to get apart, but I remembered from my teens to be carefull with the throttle, and remove the idle and choke screws. P & C look great ! Runs on prime.

Anything I should watch out for ??

Crank seals and the seal for the automatic oiler. Ive had a bunch if these mini's do this to me, it sounds like a vacuum leak. Eccentric will tell you the same, hes a tune tard

Anyway, as soon as im done getting the 3214 squared away ill post pics of a crank seal swap on a mini......or 10

 

[Moparmyway]

Probably the seals, I have a couple that acted like that, replacing the seals did the trick.

If you have one that does not have the removable starter, you have to remember to properly align the flywheel fins with the starter pawls when removing and installing the engine in the housing.

A rubber band to hold the throttle in place while you are assembling helps too.

Mark

Got the removeable starter, much easier !!!
I dont remember the rubber band trick ........ used to repair 2 cycle as a teen. This one has the metal linkage that snaps into the plastic cradle in the trigger.

Case seals or shaft seals ?

 

[Overtrained]

Got the removeable starter, much easier !!!
I dont remember the rubber band trick ........ used to repair 2 cycle as a teen. This one has the metal linkage that snaps into the plastic cradle in the trigger.

Case seals or shaft seals ?

Crank shaft seals

 

[Moparmyway]

Crank shaft seals

Thanks !!
I will check them first !!


I do remember using the Loctite that "creeps" into threads to lock down the adjusters, other way was to Loctite the adjuster, run it to adjust it, and let it sit overnight. Problem that happened after then was; that you would allways have the screws stripped by the "animals" on the crews.

This one I will keep for my kid, and prolly my tree-saw for climbing (every once in a while)

 

[Overtrained]

Probably the seals, I have a couple that acted like that, replacing the seals did the trick.

If you have one that does not have the removable starter, you have to remember to properly align the flywheel fins with the starter pawls when removing and installing the engine in the housing.

A rubber band to hold the throttle in place while you are assembling helps too.

Mark

Best way to get the engine back into the case(mini mac) is to pull the throttle outside the case and to the right, it wont crack. Now that its out of the way, position the throttle linkage onto the magnets of the flywheel. Now you can slide the engine into the case and make sure the fuel line sits in its proper grove. The removable starter mini's are easier obviously but on a MM1 and MM6 you can rotate the recoil until the engine slides in correctly.

 

[heimannm]

Yes, crank shaft seals.

If you don't secure the throttle linkage near where it needs to end up, they always manage to get turned around inside the saw and either bent, disconnected, or just plain impossible to retrieve.

OT - it is quite easy to work on, certainly better than the Titan Series. I still have a Titan 50 in need of a piston, I think that may wait another year until I forget the most recent experience on the Double Eagle 50.

Mark