McCulloch Mini and Small CC Chainsaw's

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Hey there,

I'm wanting to do a pressure and vacuum test on a Pro Mac 510. I've blocked off the exhaust port and the carb port with rubber and am ready to test, but where is the impulse line?

Thanks
Bill
 
The impulse signal on that model comes through the flange where the carburetor mounts. You will need to make an adapter to fit the spark plug hole or the carburetor mount in order to pressure and vacuum test the crankcase.

Mark
Thanks Mark, I'll see what I can come up with.
 
When changing a felt gas tank filter on a PM510 or SP40 the new filter is square, so do you just stuff it into position in the tank, fill the tank with a bit of gas and let it expand?
 
So on a Pro Mac 510, there's 2 Bearing Sleeve Assemblies (93763) that encase the Needle Bearing (213282) and Oil Seal (83859). When rebuilding the top end should these all be replaced? Can it be disassembled somehow?
bearing.jpg

Thanks
Bill
 
It is certainly possible to press the bearings and seals out and press new ones in, the 70cc and larger 10 Series all have a similar set up on the PTO side.

I made some special tooling to help me when pressing the seal/bearing out and again when pressing them back in place on the 10 Series saws. I did find it necessary to make a special arbor to fit the I.D. of the bearing very precisely to prevent it from collapsing the housing every so slightly causing the bearing to run out of true and try to move laterally on the shaft.

You may be able to just pop the seals out and replace them, always a good idea on an older saw and avoids disturbing the bearing. The bearings are pretty reliable as long as they have not been subjected to moisture and rusting.

Mark
 
It is certainly possible to press the bearings and seals out and press new ones in, the 70cc and larger 10 Series all have a similar set up on the PTO side.

I made some special tooling to help me when pressing the seal/bearing out and again when pressing them back in place on the 10 Series saws. I did find it necessary to make a special arbor to fit the I.D. of the bearing very precisely to prevent it from collapsing the housing every so slightly causing the bearing to run out of true and try to move laterally on the shaft.

You may be able to just pop the seals out and replace them, always a good idea on an older saw and avoids disturbing the bearing. The bearings are pretty reliable as long as they have not been subjected to moisture and rusting.

Mark

Thanks Mark, I think I'll take your advice and just try to pop out the seals and replace them. I have two ordered.
 
Hi Folks. I am looking for a new crankshaft for a PowerMac 6...If anyone has one or a parts saw please let me know :)

Managed to strip mine just when I was getting this old unit finally working well
 
Here's an IPL. I have a combination shop manual that includes the SP-40 but it's nearly illegible. Most any MiniMac shop manual should somewhat apply with the exception of the rear handle.
 

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