Mcculloch Super Pro 125c Complete rebuild.

[sefh3]

Rebuild the carb first. It sounds like you have junk in your carb. Try that before destroying the saw. What's the compression on this saw?

 

[hkusp9]

Rebuild the carb first. It sounds like you have junk in your carb. Try that before destroying the saw. What's the compression on this saw?

Beat my ass and break my arm retarded.

Honestly, i have a compression gauge and didnt even bother to use it.

Even with the decomp activated its an ugly mean bi$&h to pull over.

:hmm3grin2orange:

 

[Tzed250]

If the carb is dirty it may cause a lean start mixture. The result will be backfires that will get your attention.

 

[Mastermind]

Pass that popcorn.

Just take your time and settle down. That saw does not have to run tonight....right? Check the fuel lines, replace the filter, rebuild the carb, replace the points, condenser, and plug. Then try to run it. Remember, this is a classic, treat it accordingly.

 

[ozflea]

And get the correct flywheel puller makes life easy

McBob.

 

[hkusp9]

Pass that popcorn.

Just take your time and settle down. That saw does not have to run tonight....right? Check the fuel lines, replace the filter, rebuild the carb, replace the points, condenser, and plug. Then try to run it. Remember, this is a classic, treat it accordingly.

honestly, your advice is absolutely spot on!

I told myself before i ever got this saw that i was going to do a complete teardown on it and rebuild and repaint it before i ever tried to start it. I was thinking new piston rings, new oil seals, new filters and carb kit and fresh paint and the works.

Sure enough, its not in the garage 2 days and im out there yanking on it. :msp_tongue:

Also, i have determined that it has a gas tank leak because it leaked fuel all over everywhere last night while sitting and there appears to be bondo all over the outside of the top handle and some kind of nasty sealant gobbed all on the inside. Thats going to have to get fixed as well...

Anyhow, i located a "flywheel puller" and modified it with some home depot parts. Im going to go change out of my dress clothes now and head to the garage to play with it and post some pictures.

I would have had more time today to play with my saws but i drove across town to do a little personal time, non police, private investigating on a guy that was scamming hobbyist's out of money on another internet message board. Im thinking hes about to realize that the internet is a much smaller place than he thought and not everybody gets away with online fraud.

 

[sefh3]

Beat my ass and break my arm retarded.

Honestly, i have a compression gauge and didnt even bother to use it.

Even with the decomp activated its an ugly mean bi$&h to pull over.

:hmm3grin2orange:

WOW. I have to bite my tongue on this. Here I am trying to help you and I get this.

May I ask how many saws have you rebuild....

I have build hundreds of saws and this what I get.....

Good Luck!!!!!!

 

[Mastermind]

WOW. I have to bite my tongue on this. Here I am trying to help you and I get this.

May I ask how many saws have you rebuild....

I have build hundreds of saws and this what I get.....

Good Luck!!!!!!

I think he was calling himself retarded for not thinking to check compression.

 

[thomas1]

I think he was calling himself retarded for not thinking to check compression.

I think that was his description of the compression. As in "that thing has so much compression it's retarded".

Randy, are you hiring?

 

[rwoods]

:agree2: Ron

 

[hkusp9]

I think that was his description of the compression. As in "that thing has so much compression it's retarded".

Randy, are you hiring?

Ill give it to Thomas, he actually got this one correct. I honestly didnt think anybody could misunderstand that description.

I meant the compression is so strong it "whips my butt" and its so hard to pull over it "breaks my arm" and Its so hard to pull over the compression is retarded, which is a young guy term for something thats over the top, excessive, abundant, ect. :wink2:

Anyhow, give me a second and I'll post some more detailed photos of what im dealing with right now.

 

[hkusp9]

allright. So heres the progress.... Good and bad

I went and bought this generic auto parts store puller tool and got some bolts and washers from home depot that would fit it. Worked like a charm at budging the flywheel free, but it took some more work to get the flywheel to actually come free of the key which was a little chewed up.

heres a video of the piston moving in the exhaust port. Looks pretty good to me.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2FC07735E3-AAE2-4B33-922E-89A0031A1A08-108-0000000A061AB6EC.mp4">

now this is kind of interesting. I got into the ignition system and noticed that there is some clear plastic shrink wrap over the ignition wire that goes from the coil to the breaker. That plastic had water or gas or some kind of liquid in there that probably shouldnt be.

<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid952.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fae4%2Fhkusp999%2F41D773FA-E596-4155-A4B9-D69EEDEF5045-108-0000000AC5DE2FE4.mp4">

So i took a carpet cuttin, buck skinnin knife and hacked that off and dried the wire.

 

[hkusp9]

Ok, so i cleaned up that ignition wire and then i took the points (which i found when i actually got in there was just a POINT, as in one little electrical contact). anyhow. I ran a worn out piece of sandpaper over the contacts to clean them up a little and put it back on the saw. I eyeballed the gap about to where i had it before. (i know i should have bought the $6 set of feeler gauges at the auto parts store.

Now heres where its gets interesting. I pulled off the condenser from the Mac SP125c and looked real close to the inscription stamped on it. Theres a Mac logo and teeny TINY numbers stamped.... "913". I figured, "hey this must be the condensers model number".

So after being told on here by somebody recently that all the condensers on macs are the same, I looked at the condenser that i pulled off a busted mini mac and saw the same 913 number on it. I said to myself, "myself, screw it" and slapped it on there.

Then i reset the flywheel in the keyway and tightened down the nut to what i THOUGHT was an appropriate level.

So then i checked the spark with my spark tester and found that the spark was a LOT stronger and brighter.

so then it was time to get down to business.

I pulled the starter cord a few times and got a pop, then turned it to run and cranked it over and it burst into life and absolutely freaking screamed to full throttle. Like strong and loud and in an exciting way!

Only problem is that i only got about 2-3 seconds of run time and it died. Like just cut right out in a snap.

So i looked at it and played with it for a while and noticed that the flywheel doesnt seem to be perfectly round or true on the crankshaft. Like it gets closer to the coil on one side than the other.

Kinda weird but i figured that i dont know the operating tolerances on there things and it was running so hey, how bad can it be.

Then i popped off the flywheel again to see if i messed up something in the points and i immediately noticed it.

The flywheel key was gone, like shredded to dust. There were little pieces of metal shavings all underneath the flywheel. I tapped out the sliver still on the crankshaft and surveyed the damage.

crankshaft honestly looks salvageable.

The flywheel however is kind of iffy looking at this point. Especially since i dont think its round, even when correctly centered on the crankshaft.

Ok, so at this point. I need to find:

Carb rebuild kit
Muffler
Muffler cover
condenser maybe
flywheel probably
air filter cover thats not cracked or repair this one
starter housing/cowling thats not cracked at the rivet where the spark plug cover goes

 

[parrisw]

You need to degrease the taper on the crank and flywheel, and torque properly, if you did not do that?

 

[hkusp9]

You need to degrease the taper on the crank and flywheel, and torque properly, if you did not do that?

yeah, i torqued properly but i guess i forgot to degrease wont make that mistake twice.

My torque wrench is going to have some skin in this game tomorrow.

 

[hkusp9]

why not bump the play it or delay it thread instead

??? whats the play it or delay it thread?

 

[hkusp9]

Also, anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a tillotson 124B carb? Cant find a single on on ebay and only two used carbs...

I heard once that you can soften up old rubber diaphragms by soaking them in automatic transmission fluid...

 

[CM76]

Also, anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a tillotson 124B carb? Cant find a single on on ebay and only two used carbs...

I heard once that you can soften up old rubber diaphragms by soaking them in automatic transmission fluid...

Hi,

There are plenty of kits on the bay. Retry your search with Tillotson RK-23HS.

Regards,

Chris.

 

[Eccentric]

Also, anybody know where i can get a carb rebuild kit for a tillotson 124B carb? Cant find a single on on ebay and only two used carbs...

I heard once that you can soften up old rubber diaphragms by soaking them in automatic transmission fluid...

Your carb isn't a Tillotson "124B"................it's a Tillotson HS124B. You need a kit for a Tillotson HS carb, and that kit is RK-23HS as Chris said.

Here's some reading for you. SLOW DOWN. Study more, flail less....

Tillotson

http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/techinfo_HS_US.pdf

http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/HSPartsList.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/?7482587082db2kz


http://www.mediafire.com/?a2w9e0ekm5lkgcz

http://www.mediafire.com/?n3663xvh9ussii5


http://www.mediafire.com/?232e5xbxiiapyom

http://www.mediafire.com/?uqrlm3r0chx1j20

http://www.mediafire.com/?5mleh588fevlw8w

 

[hkusp9]

Your carb isn't a Tillotson "124B"................it's a Tillotson HS124B. You need a kit for a Tillotson HS carb, and that kit is RK-23HS as Chris said.

Here's some reading for you. SLOW DOWN. Study more, flail less....

Tillotson

http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/techinfo_HS_US.pdf

http://www.tillotson.ie/docs/HSPartsList.pdf

http://www.mediafire.com/?7482587082db2kz


http://www.mediafire.com/?a2w9e0ekm5lkgcz

http://www.mediafire.com/?n3663xvh9ussii5


http://www.mediafire.com/?232e5xbxiiapyom

http://www.mediafire.com/?uqrlm3r0chx1j20

http://www.mediafire.com/?5mleh588fevlw8w

Did i accidentally leave my web camera on again? Can you actually SEE me flailing on the other end of this thing?