Measure standing lumber

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Lots of pencil straight popular. Nice taper, alot 20+ at the stump.

Is the international scale the most accurate for clean trees selectively chosen to cut?

Next weekend id like to go for a walk about and actually add up what's decent and discuss with the mill before going hog wild with the saw.




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Doyle scale is the one used locally, known to be wildly inaccurate. Inside bark diameter at the small end of a 16' log -4" times itself will give you board feet. ex20" inside bark =256 board feet. Excellent poplar was bringing $.50 board feet prior to the Covid-19 fiasco, delivered to the mill. If they cut it it is all up to the bidder. Should be able to get you a scale stick for about $15, operator skill is important. Personally I would not cut a healthy tuliptree under 28" dbh diameter unless I needed groceries.
 
All I cut was standing.

Amish were all horned up once they csme out to the landing.


Skidder of choice?

73 1/2 Chevy blazer with a 350 4 barrel, 350t with a sheared park pin, locked xfer case in low range, , open differentials, chains on bald 15s,, no box, belt drive hydraulic pump, 8ft boom, with 350ft of spool, all wireless with an electric spool, some relays, and my kids old r/c car transmitter and receiver.

Cut it all 8.6 and 10.6.

Shorter the piece, the better, as they scale from the small end. And longer stuff just ends up bruising all the young trees.

So I did it myself.

Old a/c t12 with forks to shuffle the sticks around.


Turned out good.

Went slick as butter.

I did get a bit drunk and grumpy on a skid, and bent the frame a bit. Oh well. 6 more to pick from. Pulled alot of wheelies. Poor frame.
 
Oh I did manage to poke a hole in the radiator, and many flat tires from pokies and stubbs. Glad I have a tire changer and 40 spares.

So, with my intentions of not working in rain, I cut a hole in the roof of the cab and mounted the radiator up there with a reversible DC motor.

One way is heat, one way is no heat. Worked great.
 
all depends on who's buying, windfall can be sketchy at best, and if it's been sitting for any time, it may just be worthless
It’s from mixture of ice and wind which is the same difference. If I do anything I’ll mill it myself. Actually been thinking of building a band mill. Alaskain mill takes to long.
 
All I cut was standing.

Amish were all horned up once they csme out to the landing.


Skidder of choice?

73 1/2 Chevy blazer with a 350 4 barrel, 350t with a sheared park pin, locked xfer case in low range, , open differentials, chains on bald 15s,, no box, belt drive hydraulic pump, 8ft boom, with 350ft of spool, all wireless with an electric spool, some relays, and my kids old r/c car transmitter and receiver.

Cut it all 8.6 and 10.6.

Shorter the piece, the better, as they scale from the small end. And longer stuff just ends up bruising all the young trees.

So I did it myself.

Old a/c t12 with forks to shuffle the sticks around.


Turned out good.

Went slick as butter.

I did get a bit drunk and grumpy on a skid, and bent the frame a bit. Oh well. 6 more to pick from. Pulled alot of wheelies. Poor frame.
I like yer style...

except if ya used a Ford... frame wouldn't of bent... just sayin
 
Buckled inward just before spring brackets. Both sides.

And now the seat is all pushed up. Can floor crunched upward too. Looks like I'm talking on the phone with my head leaning.

I doubt another light frame with slightly different design would of made a difference.


I'm currently grabbing all 1/4" 2x3 angle cutoffs and lapping another frame firewall > back.

It worked so good I'm going for another one.
 
Buckled inward just before spring brackets. Both sides.

And now the seat is all pushed up. Can floor crunched upward too. Looks like I'm talking on the phone with my head leaning.

I doubt another light frame with slightly different design would of made a difference.


I'm currently grabbing all 1/4" 2x3 angle cutoffs and lapping another frame firewall > back.

It worked so good I'm going for another one.
i'm mostly messing with ya...

but Ford has always used better and thicker steel on their frames then GM or Dodge, not to mention the Twin I beam suspension, is just naturally stronger then the dangling shackles of a spring mounted front end.

tearing the steering box loose is another common GM problem, especially if any sort of lift is involved

Dodges are just garbage all the way around, except the cummins in the diesels... but only because cummins makes a damn fine engine

Besides for a few years you could get a factory cummins Ford
 
i'm mostly messing with ya...

but Ford has always used better and thicker steel on their frames then GM or Dodge, not to mention the Twin I beam suspension, is just naturally stronger then the dangling shackles of a spring mounted front end.

tearing the steering box loose is another common GM problem, especially if any sort of lift is involved

Dodges are just garbage all the way around, except the cummins in the diesels... but only because cummins makes a damn fine engine

Besides for a few years you could get a factory cummins Ford
Hmm, no offense Northman, but blanket statements may reflect your personal experience; I certainly can't speak to that about Dodge/Ram trucks on your behalf, but I've owned them since 1976, 3/4 and 1 tons, gas and diesel. Still do in fact, been good to me--hate to think how many miles in all kinds of conditions> Just strong, plain good value trucks.
 
Lots of pencil straight popular. Nice taper, alot 20+ at the stump.

Is the international scale the most accurate for clean trees selectively chosen to cut?

Next weekend id like to go for a walk about and actually add up what's decent and discuss with the mill before going hog wild with the saw.




Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk
If you're in the south use Doyle log rule
Ask the mill what scale they use
For most scales hight and taper are the most important
If you are familiar with an angel guage you can cruise it pretty easy
 

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