mercury da-211 seriously proplexing me !!!

[gregka]

ok buddy of mine got two mercury disstion da-211 neither runs . so he asked me to try to get them running, im like not a problem im always fixing peoples engines and I love it.

I start working on one n it has no spark long story short replace the coils, condensers , points , spark plug wires , new plugs champion j 6c then went to j8c. even swaped out the magnetic rotor from the other saw, cleaned the hell out the carb and saw itself. cylinders have 120/125 psi also. now I got spark in both cylinders but after I get it running ( which is a freakin nightmare) It will only run on one cylinder and it doesn't matter which one . after it gets hot I will let it stall then put the hot plug into the cold cylinder and the cold plug into the hot cylinder . when I restart it the cold cyl with the hot plug will run !!!!!!! n not the hot cyl with the cold plug BUT if I run it for a while like 5 min or more the other cylinder will start to kick sputter and eventually run absolutely fine !!! now the motor is hot both cylinders r firing she s idling perfectly and sounds like a ported snowmobile lol. I have my carb adjustment screw out about 2 1/2 turns ( which seem way lean to me cause the other saw I did not tough the carb is set at 3 3/4 out ) im running a synthetic oil at 32:1 ( no load on the saw the bar and chain r off just the trans is on) . now when I turn it off and let it cool and go to restart it I go through the same crap all over again it will only run on one cylinder till the motor gets ho then the other cylinder will eventually kick sputter and final catch on and all is well. the longer I let it cool the longer it takes for it to eventually run on both cylinders !!!!! im am completely stumped !!! I don't believe that this is normal cause when its sit overnight its a nightmare to start the next day ( like 20 min of pulling) my last hope is that maybe the needle n seat are leaking causing it to flood out ????

any I mean any advice would help !! unless this is how theses saws run

thanks for any ideas !
oh n i'm new to this site to

 

[sawnami]

Did you set the ignition timing?

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[gregka]

I marked the stator plate before I removed it so its back it its original position and the points are gapped at .018 as per spec

 

[sawnami]

I'd check the timing to make sure it's right. I've gotten a couple saws that had the timing misadjusted previous to my getting them. I can dig up the timing instructions if you need them.

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[gregka]

I'd check the timing to make sure it's right. I've gotten a couple saws that had the timing misadjusted previous to my getting them. I can dig up the timing instructions if you need them.

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if you could some how get me those timing instruction that would be awesome !!! I would defiantly give it a try ( I cant locate any manuals anywhere) thanks

 

[hanniedog]

Manuals for them are rare as hens teeth.

 

[hanniedog]

Somewhere I have an owners manual and parts book. Came with the 211 I got for 20 bucks.

 

[ray benson]

That is the only info I have on the DA-211

 

[gregka]

That is the only info I have on the DA-211

thanks that's exactly what I was looking for and I just bought it off of ebay yesterday lol
but I didn't get the parts breakdown that's awesome thanks !!

 

[sawnami]

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[gregka]

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Awesome thanks !!!

 

[gregka]

first I just wanted to say thanks for all the info you guys have given me its been a real life savor especially the parts breakdown !!

second any of you guys recall the approximate location of the stator/magneto plate was in the adjustment slots ? when I adjust the timing to 26 ( or .111 in) degrees btdc my plate is almost fully advanced and according to my pics before I took it apart it was almost dead center.

 

[sawnami]

first I just wanted to say thanks for all the info you guys have given me its been a real life savor especially the parts breakdown !!

second any of you guys recall the approximate location of the stator/magneto plate was in the adjustment slots ? when I adjust the timing to 26 ( or .111 in) degrees btdc my plate is almost fully advanced and according to my pics before I took it apart it was almost dead center.

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[sawnami]

What type of indicator setup are you using?

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[gregka]

What type of indicator setup are you using?

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awesome thanks ! that's about where my 26 degrees btdc ended up

using a depth gauge to find tdc ( depth gauge is basically a big to on the end of a micrometer and the T part rests on the cylinder shroud) then added .111 to the gauge and I also used a small degree wheel to double check it and the degree wheel also read 25 or 26 degrees.

how the hell did u get ur points to close so perfectly !!

 

[sawnami]

awesome thanks ! that's about where my 26 degrees btdc ended up

using a depth gauge to find tdc ( depth gauge is basically a big to on the end of a micrometer and the T part rests on the cylinder shroud) then added .111 to the gauge and I also used a small degree wheel to double check it and the degree wheel also read 25 or 26 degrees.

how the hell did u get ur points to close so perfectly !!

I use a TDC dial indicator and an ohmmeter.

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[gregka]

lol nice !!! I gotta get me one of those ( maybe I could modify a sparkplug some how ) is the ohm meter for continuity ?

well finally got it running on 2cyl again only took about 4 hours !!! while it was running on cyl 1 it was just spitting out tons of raw fuel out the exhaust on cyl 2 but eventually ( like 30 min) it would start to sputter more and more and eventually burn off all the excess fuel in cyl 2 and run absolutely freakin fine !!!!

cracked seal ? stuck ring ? sucking air from somewhere ? it seem like cyl 1 is running a tad bit lean I got my high spee about 2 1/2 turns out n low speed 3/4 out . the manual said if the carb was so far out of adjustment to set the high speed to 1 1/2 and low to 1/2 and that would still be a rich mixture. tried that really count keep it running on one cyl but one I got it running on 2 cyl I set it 1 1/2 turns out as it was running and it was way to lean started to bog n die. any idea of you carb settings ?

in regards to setting the timing you put the crank at 26 degrees btdc set you mag plate somewhere in the slots so that the points are on the "ramp" of the lobe and in that position the points should b open .0015 then rotate the crank so the points are fully open(highest point of the lobe) and the gap should be no greater than .015 correct ?

 

[sawnami]

Yes, the ohmmeter shows the instant that the contacts open.
Have you tried taking the plug wire off of the dead cylinder and see if it would arc to ground? Does the wear on the rubbing blocks of each set of points look equal?

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[gregka]

yes got good spark (actually had it running on cyl 1 pulled the plug wire off on cyl 2 pulled plug out went to put plug back into the boot as it was running and got a good zap n after I got the bot into the plug I held it against the cyl screw and saw a nice spark. the rubbing block are a little different in size ( mayb .020) but they r both doing what they should actuall the dead cyl has the new points.

but what I did find on the other saw ( giving the running one a rest) was a obvious leaking rear seal . as I was putting the starter coil plate back on I inadvertently spun the crank n got a puff of air in my face !! so I did the soap test n got lots of bubbles . pulled the seal out n it was hard as a rock ! very little flex. so I should have the seals by wed . gonna replace all the seals in both saws. n go from there

 

[gregka]

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I’ve noticed that your mag plate says “.o15 point opening “ ( I think that’s what ic c ) and both of my saws say .018 points opening
I wonder why that is and I wonder I’m that would make my timing different