Milling a large tree with MS661 90CC

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Wingstress

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West Simsbury CT
Hello,
I currently use a MS661 90CC with a 20 inch bar on a Logosol Farmers mill. Its adequate for my needs as I usually can't handle anything much bigger by hand.

However, my buddy has an elm tree that is already down and is 36" diameter at the base and 48" at a 4-way crotch about 30 feet up. Amazingly, it's already down and is just sitting there in the woods.

Looking at Baileys online I see a 48" Alaskan mill set with bar and aux oiler. All told, it will be about an $800-$1000 investment. (hand winch, mill, bar, chains, etc.)

The big question is, can I mill an average 40" Elm tree with a 90CC or do I need something larger? I'm very afraid of spending $1k only to find out that I have a put-put saw for the job. (I know bigger is better, but this is a one time event. - I don't know many people who have a 4 foot elm sitting in their back yard. I thought he was joking when he said he had a really big tree if I wanted it)

If I get by this round of questions - here's my next. Can two people lift an 8/4 3'X12" elm slab? because it spans a ditch I can only get my trailer within maybe 20 feet of the log. Are we going to kill ourselves trying to move the slab to the trailer. Hoping to borrow a tractor that can get closer, but will only have a front end loader. (no forks.)

Thanks!
Tom
 
Regarding the 661, it will cut the Elm, slowly, but it will cut it.
You will have to keep the chain razor sharp, rakers set correctly (not just 0.025"), don't push it too hard, and make sure the saw is tuned on the rich side.
It's not like every cut even on a 36" log is 36" wide.

Regard moving the slabs - If you can rig up some 20ft long skids (steel or timber) between the log and the trailer you should be able to winch the slabs on the skids direct onto your trailer.

if you are going to be milling across a ditch I would suggest setting up a solid walk way/platform across the ditch down one side of the log so you have a safe place to work alongside the log.
 
The 661 will do if it's just a one-time deal. The biggest expense at that width is bars and chains. You can always run smaller bars on the bigger mill. I currently run a 28" and 36" on my 48 inch mill. Auxiliary oiler is definitely necessary. Many build their own at a smaller cost.

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If you need further confirmation. Bob is right on the money as always. It will cut it, slow but it will cut it. Just take your time and don’t try and force the saw.
 
Mechanically a 661 could easily perform these cuts more than once and with care there's no reason it could not do them repeatedly, it depends how long the operator is prepared to tolerate the slower milling.
I usually recommend saws like a 661 or 395 for millers who mill small logs and the occasional larger log.
It's just when the number of larger logs start to represent a significant proportion of what they mill that I suggest they look for a bigger saw.
The "significant proportion" is deliberately not a definitive term. eg for someone on a tight budget the proportion will be higher than someone with access to more $$.
Skip chain could help a lot.
 
A 48" granberg and 48" bar will only mill a 44" slab so you might have to whittle down the crotch area. Less if it's a roller tip bar as the end clamp has to be behind the roller or it will pinch it down.
That said I would not hesitate to attack that tree with that saw. I am running that same setup.
I would suggest you buy or make an auxiliary oiler.
 
I have a 47" bar on my 661. Works fine. Obviously, not the fastest, but take your time. Keep it sharp. I picked up the milling chain from Granberg when I ordered the 48" extensions.
20180408_133637.jpg
 
I run a 42 inch bar on my 660 every once in awhile and it does great you just got to go slow and steady don't push the mill cuz it ain't going to go you just kind of hurting your back. Then again your backs going to hurt anyways no getting around it. Just keep them blade Sharp
 
Hello,
I currently use a MS661 90CC with a 20 inch bar on a Logosol Farmers mill. Its adequate for my needs as I usually can't handle anything much bigger by hand.

However, my buddy has an elm tree that is already down and is 36" diameter at the base and 48" at a 4-way crotch about 30 feet up. Amazingly, it's already down and is just sitting there in the woods.

Looking at Baileys online I see a 48" Alaskan mill set with bar and aux oiler. All told, it will be about an $800-$1000 investment. (hand winch, mill, bar, chains, etc.)

The big question is, can I mill an average 40" Elm tree with a 90CC or do I need something larger? I'm very afraid of spending $1k only to find out that I have a put-put saw for the job. (I know bigger is better, but this is a one time event. - I don't know many people who have a 4 foot elm sitting in their back yard. I thought he was joking when he said he had a really big tree if I wanted it)

If I get by this round of questions - here's my next. Can two people lift an 8/4 3'X12" elm slab? because it spans a ditch I can only get my trailer within maybe 20 feet of the log. Are we going to kill ourselves trying to move the slab to the trailer. Hoping to borrow a tractor that can get closer, but will only have a front end loader. (no forks.)

Thanks!
Tom
I only needed longer bars to take the 30" or 36" Alaskan I started with to carry a 60" bar to slice cookies off the stump in my avatar.The rest of the hardware is the same no matter the length they hang on.
IMG_20180413_183707.jpg same type of thing with the 42" on the 38"-39" hickory. The sprocket center has been drilled and the solid aluminum bar has been drilled and tapped to provide about 2" more reach than the standard clamp. It did drag bark off at the tightest bit in the center of the log.IMG_20180420_141431.jpg
In no way am I suggesting any thing more than this is how I started milling. I use the "top" of the saw, pushes chips away and the powerhead oils that part of the bar.
From BobL I took the suggestion to hang a stop to prevent the top slab from sliding off and catching the mill on the lower end. Grabbed a stick that reached across the ladder and screwed a board onto it. Works well tip of the hat to BobL for that.
The powerhead on the 60" bar is a ms-460 muf-modded and max-flo filter. The chain used is Oregon square chisel skip. In my application it seems to cut and clear chips more efficiently. Peeps watching my mill on the pictured log above said they thought it was pretty fast. It is faster than the 460 and faster than running ripping chain IMHO.
None of us will need track shoes to mill, but sharp chain with correct depth guage height will function well.
On Friday I took a 5" cap off the log then 3 1/4" slice, lunch, deliver bits to my place. Afternoon had three slices@ 2 1/2" unloaded on the other bits. Saturday morning a man knocked on the door and wanted to buy a slice. It was sprinkly light rain and when we looked closer he wanted two! The cookies off the vertical log have a buyer who stopped yesterday, paid for one and said he'd be back before the end of the week for the other two. I need to mount the 50" bar to get a couple more since the man likes the look of that grain.
I moved the slabs by myself using rollers in between and pry bars to put the rollers in place. If the first piece you cut is long enough and thick enough it may be usable to get across the gap between the log and the trailer.
I got my 661c with the cylinder ported and, reportedly two tanks thru it. Muffler was clean and emptied. The outlet hole was not opened up. Once it was enlarged and small holes drilled thru the cap that powerhead preformed much better.
I hope sharing my small experience with you has been a help.
Mill safe and enjoy
 

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