$600. usd to your door. pho, all oe/stock. can change to halfwrap.
pic is day I got it. has fullwrap/dawgz now.
pic is day I got it. has fullwrap/dawgz now.
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Want to Buy milling saw
- Thread starter AdamQ
- Start date
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Yeah, and I figure you're like me, just looking for a new adventure. I just thought I'd point out that option for ya. Also, in the sawmill/logging world, seems someone is always waiting to break one off in you! Lol. If you do choose to hire it done, it should cost $200 per thousand bdft to saw your logs. Takes 5ton of pine/poplar to make a thousand and roughly 6-7 ton of other hardwoods.
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If I could get it done for $200 per thousand bdft, I would...the prices locally are not that good (best I've found is $.30/bdft plus set up fee) and to get the quantity I have to a cheaper mill elsewhere would take multiple round trips at 3-4 hrs or a substantial mileage charge.
I plan to, just trying to do my research and get the right deal on a reliable saw...I keep going back and forth between the 90-100 CC models and the 100+ CC models. Any thoughts on the break between the two? Bigger would be nicer, but when does it truly become necessary in milling?
Squatch
ArboristSite Operative
Why is an OEM cylinder mandatory? I picked up an older 660 at a garage sale for $80. The piston was scored, and the cylinder had transfer marks. I replaced them both with meteor, then threw in oem crank seals for peace of mind. When I had it apart I found the impulse line was cracked, so replaced. It too. Likely the reason for the toasted piston.
I’ve used it almost exclusively for milling (except one oak I dropped with it to test it out ). I’ve mainly milled redwood and it’s been very impressive.
For a garage sale score that I had no history on the meteor parts were reasonably priced and seemed pretty good to me.
Will you take me when you go garage sale'ng? Mike
What he said...
If most of your logs are less than 26" DBH, then a 90cc might be a better option. A quality saw in that range can do milling up to 40" on occasion, but wouldn't hold up to that for hours every weekend. 30" and less should be fine for a couple years.
The beauty of that size saw is that it's more user friendly, gets better fuel economy and runs at a higher speed. Speed is VERY valuable as a single cut can take 10 minutes 0r longer. (Not so bad for large timbers, but laborious for thin boards.). If you are thinking in 1000s of board feet, you need speed and ease of use.
I like my 066 big bore better than my 880. Unfortunately the 066 is 23 years old and parts are getting hard to find (it's a red light).
If you are trying to mill an entire house, or already have a log pile and it keeps growing, then you really need a BSM. If you can't afford it then you need to reevaluate your project budget. Even with a band saw you will need a saw for processing and setup. Get a pre Mtronic 661. 98cc of reliability and ease of use. Does almost everything. I wish I had one.
The beauty of that size saw is that it's more user friendly, gets better fuel economy and runs at a higher speed. Speed is VERY valuable as a single cut can take 10 minutes 0r longer. (Not so bad for large timbers, but laborious for thin boards.). If you are thinking in 1000s of board feet, you need speed and ease of use.
I like my 066 big bore better than my 880. Unfortunately the 066 is 23 years old and parts are getting hard to find (it's a red light).
If you are trying to mill an entire house, or already have a log pile and it keeps growing, then you really need a BSM. If you can't afford it then you need to reevaluate your project budget. Even with a band saw you will need a saw for processing and setup. Get a pre Mtronic 661. 98cc of reliability and ease of use. Does almost everything. I wish I had one.
Your tougher that I am, I have to wait until they're down before I mill them.
D
Deleted member 117362
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Look up. There is a 394 with your name on it. Easy to work on with lots of grunt.
This seems like a really good price for a bandsaw mill if that is the direction this goes.
https://woodlandmills.ca/product-ca...2eR1OXrTb2bJ0MLCnTa1-UymHssflFFcaArHGEALw_wcB
https://woodlandmills.ca/product-ca...2eR1OXrTb2bJ0MLCnTa1-UymHssflFFcaArHGEALw_wcB
I thought he was at your place.
Honestly I know very little about the 100cc saws, or milling.
But from what I've read I'd probably go with a 90cc saw as it could be used for multiple purposes. But this is just me and I'm the type of guy who isn't afraid to buy a good high quality tool for a reasonable price in great condition knowing that if I ever decide to switch things up I can always get my money back.
It seems that most of the saws guys like for milling hold pretty good value, it's much like most things as I said before, coming up with the initial cash to buy quality is what stops most(hence the reason so much junk is sold in this country, everyone wants it cheap and wants it now).
LOL
Oh wait that was a month or two ago
.
Ported makes sense for milling. At very least a muffler mod to get the heat out of the cylinder and help with the air flow through. Too easy to over heat a powerhead while milling. After mming or at the same time, sharpen chain including finding the ideal height of the depth guages to max efficiency without bogging the saw. For your own benefit please read "CS milling 101" which answers questions we don't even know we needed to ask.
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