Milling small Teak logs

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BobL

No longer addicted to AS
AS Supporting Member.
Joined
Feb 25, 2007
Messages
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Location
Perth, Australia
It's been a while but I finally got round to do some chainsaw milling. Only small logs with the 441, a 25" bar and my small alaskan but I figure this would be about all my knees could cope with.

The logs are small (<12" diameter, ~5ft long) Malaysian Teak, donated to a local Community workshop (Mens Shed) where I am a member. My membership is mainly social but otherwise involves occasional repairing of machinery and making various things for them but I do that in my own in my own shop.

The Teak logs were were felled about 5 years ago and transported to Australia on a pallet and stored in a warehouse for most of that time so are now basically dry and quite hard. The owner of the logs donated them to the Mens Shed about 6 months ago and the Shop supervisor who is a friend of mine asked me if I would break them up for the members.

The small size meant they were too short and narrow for my HD adjustable Unistrut log rails but too long for my short log milling rig so I made up a milling platform from some 2" thick ply, and used a 10 x 2" pine board as a guide board for the first cut. The small size of the logs meant a way of preventing the logs from rolling sideways during cutting was required and is described below.

The milled timber is quite stunning. On exposing the cut the timber colour is initially an almost green grey colour but within 30 seconds it changes to what you see here.
IMG_3431.jpg

Here you can see the platform and the metal (Al) flower like gizmos I used to hold the log steady.
IMG_3432.jpg

The 1/8" Al discs are off cuts from another project originally cut with a plasma cutter so have hard ragged oxidised edges that readily grab the log. The petal lines were cut with a table saw and bent upwards in one go with a hydraulic press. Bolted to the platform off centre they can be rotated to grab different sized logs and prevent them from rolling. I was surprised to see how well this works. A couple of the individual petals did bend when a log was dropped onto the platform but the petals could be easily bent back int place with pliers.

When I say milling all I really did was cut these logs into 2" thick slabs as I did not want to turn too muc of the logs into sawdust. The Mens Shed blokes that will use them can then further break them up as they see fit on a bandsaw.

I asked my assistant to make a short Video of the cutting but a few seconds into the vid (when the sound goes all quiet like) he accidentally hit the slo-mo button so instead of ~2 minutes, the vid has become 12 minutes. I put it up anyway because although it is a bit like watching paint dry it may still be of interest to some members, maybe newbies.



In the vid it's instructive to see how things rattle and shake and twist, you can easily see which bolts were not tightened or came loose.

If you hang in till the end of the vid, look at how the mill dives as the front mill rail loses contact with the log (I went back to using the guide rail for every cut) because the log is too small and there is no support between the front and rear mill rails.

Because there are only a total of 6 of these small teak logs I decided not to optimise any of my Lopro chains to suit the timber so I used the chain loop that I use on Aussie hardwood which uses a raker angle of 6.5º. I reckon I could use 7.5º on this wood which would speed up cutting although a 2 minute cut is hardly worth futzing about with .

I cut up 4 of these logs and by then my knees were starting to throb so I called it quits for the day but all being well I will go back and finish up tomorrow. There are also a few small Camphor Laurel logs to mill which will be like cutting butter after cutting the teak.

BTW the location is the Men's Shed community vegetable garden as this would then not required and sawdust clean up.
 
While I had my small alaskan at home (I normally keep most of my milling gear at my tree lopper mate's yard about 15 miles away) I decided to do another small milling job for my wife who is setting up horse agility gear to used at the stables where she keeps her horse. Horse agility involves horse and rider completing a circuit of task like, a slalom ride through a line of tall poles, up and down seesaws, opening and closing gates, walking backwards through a race, etc all done against the clock.

One of my jobs was to make the gate, and the poles for the slalom. The gear has to be portable , easily cleared from a riding arena and able to be set up and removed by 60+ year old women, so I decided to go for PVC pipe and small section of tree trunk with a suitable size hole drilled in the middle.

Down at the tree loppers yard I selected bunch of short sections of log but they were all cut crooked and different lengths so I decided to cut them all to the same size with reasonably flat tops.
To do this I used my small alaskan on my short log milling rig. I made this rig back in 2007 and posted a few pics back then and they are still there - https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/milling-some-shorts.46491/

Here I'm using the rig to hold a short length of trunk vertically to get a flat top and bottom.
The rig rails are the longer of the mill rails from the BIL mill .
I do have another purpose built set of rails but I forgot to bring them back from the tree loppers yard.
IMG_3445.jpg

rig2.jpg
The timber is Spotted gum so its hard and dense and provides a low centre of gravity to the pole/base assembly so the pole can be pushed a long way from vertical before it tips over.

A close up of the grippers.
grippers.jpg

Final result
stumps2.jpg
The PVC pole will be glued into the holes so anyone moving the poles can just grab the pole near the base and carry the whole thing with one hand.

Here's s shot showing how tall the poles are.
These are the poles for the gate - the gate itself is just a length of rope that connects to the PVC loop at the top of one pole and hooks over a hook on top of another pole.
Gate.jpg
 
It's been a while but I finally got round to do some chainsaw milling. Only small logs with the 441, a 25" bar and my small alaskan but I figure this would be about all my knees could cope with.

The logs are small (<12" diameter, ~5ft long) Malaysian Teak, donated to a local Community workshop (Mens Shed) where I am a member. My membership is mainly social but otherwise involves occasional repairing of machinery and making various things for them but I do that in my own in my own shop.

The Teak logs were were felled about 5 years ago and transported to Australia on a pallet and stored in a warehouse for most of that time so are now basically dry and quite hard. The owner of the logs donated them to the Mens Shed about 6 months ago and the Shop supervisor who is a friend of mine asked me if I would break them up for the members.

The small size meant they were too short and narrow for my HD adjustable Unistrut log rails but too long for my short log milling rig so I made up a milling platform from some 2" thick ply, and used a 10 x 2" pine board as a guide board for the first cut. The small size of the logs meant a way of preventing the logs from rolling sideways during cutting was required and is described below.

The milled timber is quite stunning. On exposing the cut the timber colour is initially an almost green grey colour but within 30 seconds it changes to what you see here.
View attachment 685932

Here you can see the platform and the metal (Al) flower like gizmos I used to hold the log steady.
View attachment 685933

The 1/8" Al discs are off cuts from another project originally cut with a plasma cutter so have hard ragged oxidised edges that readily grab the log. The petal lines were cut with a table saw and bent upwards in one go with a hydraulic press. Bolted to the platform off centre they can be rotated to grab different sized logs and prevent them from rolling. I was surprised to see how well this works. A couple of the individual petals did bend when a log was dropped onto the platform but the petals could be easily bent back int place with pliers.

When I say milling all I really did was cut these logs into 2" thick slabs as I did not want to turn too muc of the logs into sawdust. The Mens Shed blokes that will use them can then further break them up as they see fit on a bandsaw.

I asked my assistant to make a short Video of the cutting but a few seconds into the vid (when the sound goes all quiet like) he accidentally hit the slo-mo button so instead of ~2 minutes, the vid has become 12 minutes. I put it up anyway because although it is a bit like watching paint dry it may still be of interest to some members, maybe newbies.



In the vid it's instructive to see how things rattle and shake and twist, you can easily see which bolts were not tightened or came loose.

If you hang in till the end of the vid, look at how the mill dives as the front mill rail loses contact with the log (I went back to using the guide rail for every cut) because the log is too small and there is no support between the front and rear mill rails.

Because there are only a total of 6 of these small teak logs I decided not to optimise any of my Lopro chains to suit the timber so I used the chain loop that I use on Aussie hardwood which uses a raker angle of 6.5º. I reckon I could use 7.5º on this wood which would speed up cutting although a 2 minute cut is hardly worth futzing about with .

I cut up 4 of these logs and by then my knees were starting to throb so I called it quits for the day but all being well I will go back and finish up tomorrow. There are also a few small Camphor Laurel logs to mill which will be like cutting butter after cutting the teak.

BTW the location is the Men's Shed community vegetable garden as this would then not required and sawdust clean up.

I love Teak. It was very popular as indoor furniture wood in the 70's.
Saw it when I was a kid in the 70's in many stores and homes in and around Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
I guess you could say I just love wood like many other "blokes" too.
Thanks for letting us all tap your brain some Bob. Hope you're feeling better.
 
Thanks for letting us all tap your brain some Bob. Hope you're feeling better.

Thanks but unfortunately not. It's not my knee this time but my Sarcoidosis which ramps up the Calcium levels in my blood and knocks me around. It makes me feel like I have a low grade flu, general tiredness and aching joints.

Over Xmas and New Year I started sleeping away about half the day. I went to a nephews wedding just before Xmas and by 7pm I was stuffed and luckily found a sofa to snooze on for a while. It did not help that during the day it had been 106F and every one was sweating like pigs during the ceremony in the unventilated church around 3pm.

Just after new year we decided to go for a weeks camping down on the coast to get away from it all but the packing and setting up had me on the bed about 3/4 of the day. While I was there the results of my latest blood tests came through and my specialist called me to come in and see him ASAP and they have put me on steroids again and have been on them for 4 days. This time there was no instant super boost in energy levels that I felt last time but this time I am feeling a lot hungrier which is not good. The steroids have improved my knee a bit. I'm also having blood tests every week for the next month.
 
Bob, That Teak looks amazing! love the contrast between the sap and heart wood. How many species of wood (that you actually mill) are you blessed with down there in Austrailia? I'm limited to very few species that are usable for timber here in Barbados. Mostly Mahogany with some Fustic, tropical Almond, Pride of India, Saman in between. Also some Casuarina which i think you may call 'She oak' ?
 
How many species of wood (that you actually mill) are you blessed with down there in Austrailia?
Just so you know that Teak was not Australian but came from Malaysia.

There are at least 800 known species of eucalypts in Australian and 700 of those are in my home state of Westerm Australia. The majority of Eucalyts are stunted or shrub like forms but there are a ~ 100 that can generate a millable tree. I have a wonderful 700 page book in front of me at the moment called Forest Trees of Australia, which details the botany of some 300 different forest trees (approx 2 pages per tree).
 
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