Modding the new MS201T - The truth inside

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It seems like every review I see on these is less than stellar. The more bad I heard, the more I wanted to get my hands on one. So that's exactly what I did. I went out and bought one this morning just to get the lowdown on them for myself and see what's really up with them.

I'll start out with some pics.

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I know this thread is really old but you still modding the 201t for $50 +shipping?
 
So how are the M tronics holding up ? I haven't kept up with all threads on them. Do they always run correctly ? If they don't and don't stay tuned can you burn up your saw? Or do you have to reprogram them some how. I've wanted a 201tc and a 241 c but didn't know how warranty covered them and if any electronic problems were showing up. I've watched most Brads videos on all the 201 saws seem pretty good. Even on the timing advanced saws.


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Do you have any pictures of your muffler mod? Or advice how to attack the beast? How many thousands do you take off the keyway? Sorry for bombardment of questions just don't want to make any mistakes that could be avoided.
 
So you for the most part just gut the muffler? For the flywheel how do you attach the degree wheel at the same time as the flywheel hope I am not just being dense and missing something.
 
There's nothing to gut. I add a second port, as shown in the pic above.

You don't have to actually attach the flywheel. Print a paper degree wheel the same size as the flywheel and mark on the plastic how far you need to rotate it.
 
I then did some cuts on the stand with it still bone stock. After that, I began the process of modding the muffler. Removing the spark arrestor screen on this muffler does not give you another port as the 200T does. So, I drilled a hole in it.

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As you can see here, the plastic must be trimmed.
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Here's the finished product.
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This is the whole you speak of. Also how far do you advance the running? 6-8* seem to be a number I remember reading early in this thread. Still a valid measurement? Now if Google can help me find a degree wheel we will be all set.
 
You don't need to mount it. Use it to measure how much you need to re-index the flywheel.
Ok Brad I am feeling quite stupid and its not your fault it is my lack of knowledge in the advancement process and my fear of getting it wrong. So I take the flywheel hold the paper wheel to it find a ref mark. Remove the flywheel and file a bit off the key. Replace flywheel and check to see how many degrees of advancement I have gained until I have gained 6-8* of advance. The part I am not getting is how I verify I get the paper wheel in the same place each time on the flywheel.

I have done this lots of times on SBC where we bolt the timing wheel to the crank and use a large indicator to set the cam advance. Guess I am missing the boat on this one. Thanks for your help.
 
For those looking at a 201T, be aware that Stihl has discontinued the "undercover kinda like a recall" program.
For the last couple of years Stihl corporate was subsidizing the cost of the MS201T upgrade kit for the older 201T. The kit included a carburetor, ignition coil and flywheel for about $120.00 as long as you asked the right people and then they asked the right people:)
I recently got a reorder on this kit (we sold quite a few) and they were more than twice what they used to cost.
I have a 201T that Brad did and it runs a bit stronger than the kit or new 201T.
The caveat is the muffler mod makes it a little louder too. My climber loves the Snellerized 201T and for guys looking for the performance boost to put it back in the class with the 200T, having Brad do one is the cheapest and likely best option.
Dave
 
All the more reason I have figure out how to mod. It effectively, or I should just put it in a box and send it to brad.
 
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