Most badass 50cc saw

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Sounds ear bleeding loud

It is. That is the drawback :( With the baffle removed, there is less than a two inch distance between the cylinder exhaust port and the muffler exhaust port. BUt listen to how much more eagerly it revs. It becomes rather angry. And this is less than an hours work.

It's a bit less bothersome on the 241. The one I have has the baffle removed and stratos semi gutted. I removed 80% of the divider and left some of it in to smooth the transfer from the intake to the cylinder without having to actually grind the cylinder to do so. I then added another hole to the muffler for a duel exhaust. Removed the gasket for a .018 squish. And updated it to the new carb version they released in 2016 or so for the 241. No timing advance as it is missing several fins after an accident, and I just didn't need to chance it over heating in the summer. The point was to see how far I could take it without grinding. It is a rather powerful saw for a 241. I'll have to make a vid of it in it's latest incarnation.

On that 261, I also have a vid with it ported. But it is a rather mild port job. I didn't want to chance any rings having trouble etc. So exhaust is only a bit wider and there's more intake timing. But since I was rather happy with it before, I spent most the time porting on smoothing things out and playing with the transfer direction. This got me about a 19-20% improvement over the exhaust mod alone. About a 45% ish improvement or so over all VS stock. Still, no timing advance yet in this vid, and the stratos remain intact.



After porting, the clutch cover starts to clog up with chips.
 
I don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.

I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.
 
I don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.

I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.
Sounds like a guy that hasn't ran a ported 50cc saw:rolleyes:
 
I have a MS243cm = Love it!
I have a MS362cm = Love it!
.
I need a 50cc saw, what's currently the best out there?

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

What wrong with the MS271?
MS 271 FARM BOSS® Description
close.png

Bringing reduced-emission technology to mid-range chainsaws, the STIHL MS 271 FARM BOSS® is ideal for felling, firewood cutting and storm cleanup tasks. An improved low-emission, fuel-efficient engine cuts emissions by 50% when compared to previous models and delivers 20% longer run times than traditional 2-stroke engines. Designed with user comfort in mind, its compact, ergonomic design and advanced anti-vibration system help to reduce operator fatigue while providing optimum control.
MS 271 FARM BOSS® Specifications
DISPLACEMENT 50.2 cc (3.06 cu. in.)
ENGINE POWER 2.6 kW (3.49 bhp)
POWERHEAD WEIGHT 5.6 kg (12.3 lbs.)
FUEL CAPACITY 500 cc (16.9 oz.)
CHAIN OIL CAPACITY 240 cc (8.12 oz.)
OILOMATIC® CHAIN 26 RM3
GUIDE BAR LENGTHS (Recommended ranges) 40 to 50 cm (16" to 20")
STIHL ROLLOMATIC®
POWER SOURCE Gas

In the end you have a nice Stihl set up....
 
I don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.

I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.
Some folks like to 'walk around all day' with a 50cc saw that has the power of a 60cc saw. Just sayin'.
 
No, haven't tried a ported one. Probably would enjoy it. But since I don't fall trees year-round on a production-of-cords type basis, I am fine with making a felling cut a few seconds slower, when on a job that is more walking than cutting. My TSI work is usually just falling, no bucking, nothing else. I just came off clearing 5 acres completely, down to 1" diameter, and there I was reaching for a 60 routinely; but I thought the extra power/speed/time was sometimes lost by having to be more careful about not reducing a hinge a little too far. But I don't expect a lot of that work in the future.

Kicking these ideas around with my friend who loves his 261, he asked if I considered the Husqy 543 XP ... my take from other threads here was that not everyone considers it really a 'pro' grade saw in materials used in its construction? But he knows some folks that do like the 543 quite a bit.

Also, a 261 question - would one purchased in Oct, 2018 already be the V2? He thought the "C" designation would mean that, but I thought a "C" on a Stihl means it is an M-Tronic model. ? Are there still M-Tronic vs regular models? I am looking forward to running it.
 
No problems with my 2016 550xp. My buddy's 2017 261v2 had hot start issue, replace solenoid under warranty, now my 462 is having hot start issue, very frustrating I gotta bring my old 044 as backup all the time
How many tanks thru it so far Derrick? I thought i had an issue but some dummy flipped it to choke position when it was hot. so far so good otherwise. sorry op for the derail.
 
Here is the US they have both regular carb and M-tronic Stihl 261, the version 2 has the slick looking clutch cover. My 462 is on tank 8-10, i think i found a decent deal on ethanol free gas and i may make the switch since my issues may be a bad batch from the local WaWa gas station, even though i get the higher octane from them, maybe they just refilled the underground tanks and churned up some junk. With the older saws i can usually start even a flooded saw by putting on the chainbrake, pulling the rope with left hand while hold down the throttle with the other.
 
I agree with JJ that since you love the Stihl line-up, the 261 v2 makes a lot of sense of certainly fall into that bad... bucket, my buddy has one and it rips, in stock form. Not sure if some of these others do....yes they do have power and realiability, but also i think the sound and the look of the saw is a factor, is someone else going to walk up and be like, oh man that is bad... I personally like the orange and gray combination on the husky 550xp, haven't run the Mark II but i think they look sweet, they may not be as nimble as the original or the 346 but that is what your 241 is for. Curious what the price for the new 550xp is down under?
I'm not a total Stihl guy.
I have a few Shindaiwas a couple of whos and a Makita 7900.
I will find out how much a new Husky 550 is

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Remove the partition on the cylinder side of the carb, cut the panel that disects the intake into strato and fuel halves, and pow - stratos gutted. Basically, it will take in some mix during the strato cycle, and allow more air during the mix cycle. It's sort of like your carb is suddenly a large venturi...sort of.
But you need to make the saw draw more air(flow better) in in order for it to work well.

Here is an example of how the 261cm responds to just a simple baffle removal - not just a muffler mod, but the removal of the baffle inside the muffler. Keep in mind there is no timing advance or strato gutting in this vid at all. It is purely the result of removing the baffle and enlarging the exhaust outlet. It's around a 30% improvement by itself:

Has anyone got picks or a video on how to do this?
Does the computer carb compensate for this?

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Also, a 261 question - would one purchased in Oct, 2018 already be the V2? He thought the "C" designation would mean that, but I thought a "C" on a Stihl means it is an M-Tronic model. ? Are there still M-Tronic vs regular models?

A 2018 model is the updated V2. The updated version (V2) MS 261 C-M was introduced in 2015 from serial number
5 07 337 395 in the US. Generally the C designation means comfort feature. That can be different things. All m-tronic models have the C designation on the model nameplate. Regular non-m-tronic models should be around too, they were also updated.
 
I don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.

I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.

BTW, in the videos I post, I am at work, so it is in the field. Making firewood. None of my saws are for show.









 
No, haven't tried a ported one. Probably would enjoy it. But since I don't fall trees year-round on a production-of-cords type basis, I am fine with making a felling cut a few seconds slower, when on a job that is more walking than cutting. My TSI work is usually just falling, no bucking, nothing else. I just came off clearing 5 acres completely, down to 1" diameter, and there I was reaching for a 60 routinely; but I thought the extra power/speed/time was sometimes lost by having to be more careful about not reducing a hinge a little too far. But I don't expect a lot of that work in the future.

Kicking these ideas around with my friend who loves his 261, he asked if I considered the Husqy 543 XP ... my take from other threads here was that not everyone considers it really a 'pro' grade saw in materials used in its construction? But he knows some folks that do like the 543 quite a bit.

Also, a 261 question - would one purchased in Oct, 2018 already be the V2? He thought the "C" designation would mean that, but I thought a "C" on a Stihl means it is an M-Tronic model. ? Are there still M-Tronic vs regular models? I am looking forward to running it.

The 543xp is a well made saw but imo it should not be in Husqvarnas line because it is a redmax/zenoah build orange gz4350. Some consider this saw not "pro" grade because of the plastic clutch cover and easier start recoil saying they might break. If a person frequently breaks recoil and clutch covers they should learn how to operate a chainsaw before claiming they know something about them.
 
I'm quite fond of my MS261C. Picked it up for $80, and rebuilt it. Well worth the investment.

 
The 543xp is a well made saw but imo it should not be in Husqvarnas line because it is a redmax/zenoah build orange gz4350. Some consider this saw not "pro" grade because of the plastic clutch cover and easier start recoil saying they might break. If a person frequently breaks recoil and clutch covers they should learn how to operate a chainsaw before claiming they know something about them.

The 241 has a plastic recoil cover and sprocket cover, but it is very much a Pro saw.
 
I’m a true blue husky guy. But the partner toaster 50cc sure does sound good. I have a husky 353 but only cuts small stuff.
 
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