cuinrearview
Red saw lover
I swear the RPM in the cut sounds higher and it looks like more dust than chips in the first half of that vid. It sounds slower but cuts faster after the "mod"
Sounds ear bleeding loud
Sounds like a guy that hasn't ran a ported 50cc sawI don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.
I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.
I have a MS243cm = Love it!
I have a MS362cm = Love it!
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I need a 50cc saw, what's currently the best out there?
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Some folks like to 'walk around all day' with a 50cc saw that has the power of a 60cc saw. Just sayin'.I don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.
I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.
How many tanks thru it so far Derrick? I thought i had an issue but some dummy flipped it to choke position when it was hot. so far so good otherwise. sorry op for the derail.No problems with my 2016 550xp. My buddy's 2017 261v2 had hot start issue, replace solenoid under warranty, now my 462 is having hot start issue, very frustrating I gotta bring my old 044 as backup all the time
I'm not a total Stihl guy.I agree with JJ that since you love the Stihl line-up, the 261 v2 makes a lot of sense of certainly fall into that bad... bucket, my buddy has one and it rips, in stock form. Not sure if some of these others do....yes they do have power and realiability, but also i think the sound and the look of the saw is a factor, is someone else going to walk up and be like, oh man that is bad... I personally like the orange and gray combination on the husky 550xp, haven't run the Mark II but i think they look sweet, they may not be as nimble as the original or the 346 but that is what your 241 is for. Curious what the price for the new 550xp is down under?
Has anyone got picks or a video on how to do this?Remove the partition on the cylinder side of the carb, cut the panel that disects the intake into strato and fuel halves, and pow - stratos gutted. Basically, it will take in some mix during the strato cycle, and allow more air during the mix cycle. It's sort of like your carb is suddenly a large venturi...sort of.
But you need to make the saw draw more air(flow better) in in order for it to work well.
Here is an example of how the 261cm responds to just a simple baffle removal - not just a muffler mod, but the removal of the baffle inside the muffler. Keep in mind there is no timing advance or strato gutting in this vid at all. It is purely the result of removing the baffle and enlarging the exhaust outlet. It's around a 30% improvement by itself:
Also, a 261 question - would one purchased in Oct, 2018 already be the V2? He thought the "C" designation would mean that, but I thought a "C" on a Stihl means it is an M-Tronic model. ? Are there still M-Tronic vs regular models?
Has anyone got picks or a video on how to do this?
Does the computer carb compensate for this?
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I don't understand the field application of boosting the performance of a 50cc saw. I use a 50 because I have to cut small wood and walk around all day to do it. I don't really need to blow through a 4" cut like, instantly, cuz I just have to walk to the next one right after the cut anyway, and even falling small stuff you don't want to be making cuts like you are on a timber-jack reality TV race show. If you are going to use a saw in something like firewood production, why not just use a 60cc or bigger saw to really get through bigger diameters, quickly? On a part-time basis, a 50cc can handle the occasional larger diameter just fine though.
I called a friend down the road - I think he might have a 261 I can play with later on.
No, haven't tried a ported one. Probably would enjoy it. But since I don't fall trees year-round on a production-of-cords type basis, I am fine with making a felling cut a few seconds slower, when on a job that is more walking than cutting. My TSI work is usually just falling, no bucking, nothing else. I just came off clearing 5 acres completely, down to 1" diameter, and there I was reaching for a 60 routinely; but I thought the extra power/speed/time was sometimes lost by having to be more careful about not reducing a hinge a little too far. But I don't expect a lot of that work in the future.
Kicking these ideas around with my friend who loves his 261, he asked if I considered the Husqy 543 XP ... my take from other threads here was that not everyone considers it really a 'pro' grade saw in materials used in its construction? But he knows some folks that do like the 543 quite a bit.
Also, a 261 question - would one purchased in Oct, 2018 already be the V2? He thought the "C" designation would mean that, but I thought a "C" on a Stihl means it is an M-Tronic model. ? Are there still M-Tronic vs regular models? I am looking forward to running it.
The 543xp is a well made saw but imo it should not be in Husqvarnas line because it is a redmax/zenoah build orange gz4350. Some consider this saw not "pro" grade because of the plastic clutch cover and easier start recoil saying they might break. If a person frequently breaks recoil and clutch covers they should learn how to operate a chainsaw before claiming they know something about them.
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